Complaint: A/C @ idle

:
2008 Mazda5 Touring
It plain sucks!


I attribute it to the 1 (one, un, uno) radiator fan. When moving...great. When sitting idle in traffic or parked...sucks.

My other vehicle has 2 fans and the a/c is always cold. And it's 10 years old!


I wonder if there's a way to install a second one?
 
Ever consider its due to a weaker A/C compressor? What is your other vehicle? Is it a 4-banger, b'cuz I have ONLY had poor A/C @ idle w/4-cylinder engines.
 
Other vehicle -> 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage 1.8L sedan, daily commuter.

Yes, 4 banger. AND, it's got an underdrive crank pulley to boot!
 
Mine works pretty good. I think you should inquire about the health of your compressor and/or check your cabin filter.
 
I checked the charge this weekend and it is acceptable (97* ambient, 750rpm , LOW-50psi, HIGH-240psi). Couldn't check at 1500rpm because of the lack of throttle cable or assistant.

Next will be the cabin filter, but I don't see how that could possibly affect it unless the airflow is seriously restricted, which it isn't.
 
Since I read your message, I have taking more notice of my 06 M5 and also notice the air temperature varies a lot between driving and while at idle. If I am driving on the freeway there is no problem. But if I exit the freeway and comes to a stop at a red light while the AC is on I noticed that the air temperature increases to the point where its like the the AC is not on.

Once I start moving the air temperature goes back down. I do not think this is a problem with the freon charge, but either related to the drive belt or compressor.

Dave
 
I find that engine heat has a way of finding its way into the cabin through the dash vents when the air is at face/feet. This happens after stopping with a warm engine, then starting again with the temp at its lowest setting but with the A/C off. After less than a minute, ambiant temp air blows into the cabin.

Since air temp around here has been below 70, we haven't used the A/C much in 2010.
 
Dave - The compressor strength can be checked with a set of gauges. Mine checks out healthy, so that doesn't explain it. The drive belt can only be a culprit if it's slipping or altogether broken. If it's slipping, you'd know it by an awful squeal. I suspect my cause is the 100+ degree weather and the airflow across the condenser.
 
I find that engine heat has a way of finding its way into the cabin through the dash vents when the air is at face/feet. This happens after stopping with a warm engine, then starting again with the temp at its lowest setting but with the A/C off. After less than a minute, ambiant temp air blows into the cabin.

Since air temp around here has been below 70, we haven't used the A/C much in 2010.

Actually, I have to agree. Original Poster, are you pulling air from the outside or using the recirc function? Pulling outside air in this vehicle pulls WAY TOO MUCH hot engine air into the cabin. Good for Canada in January, bad for AZ in June.
 
Ha ha, KBRAIN, you know me, I'm all over this like a donkey on a waffle

shrek_2_donkey-01.jpg


So here goes...

I attribute it to the 1 (one, un, uno) radiator fan.

That ONE fan is fine, Mazda would have checked that during design specs stage, trust me, you're the first in a long time around here to have stated the A/C is bad due to a single fan.

My other vehicle has 2 fans and the a/c is always cold. And it's 10 years old!

I'll say it again, ALL CARS are not the same, all cars are like people, even two cars that come off the factory line just seconds apart ARE NOT THE SAME, it's strange to think that, but cars are not SOLID STATE items.

Now, having said that, there are 1,283 different things that could be wrong with YOUR SPECIFIC car, it's WAY TO HARD to try and diagnose over the internet YOUR VEHICLE without having it in front of us.

I wonder if there's a way to install a second one?

Go for it, if you've got the TIME and the MONEY to do it, and want to invest in something that is not guaranteed to work. :eek:

I checked the charge this weekend and it is acceptable (97* ambient, 750rpm , LOW-50psi, HIGH-240psi). Couldn't check at 1500rpm because of the lack of throttle cable or assistant.

One assistant coming up:

brick.jpg


Put that on the gas peddle as needed to get the RPM you need.

Next will be the cabin filter, but I don't see how that could possibly affect it unless the airflow is seriously restricted, which it isn't.

CORRECT! (bowdown)

Since I read your message, I have taking more notice of my 06 M5 and also notice the air temperature varies a lot between driving and while at idle.

Again, each car is unique, what is one thing for YOU is not necessarily the cause for another.

If I am driving on the freeway there is no problem. But if I exit the freeway and comes to a stop at a red light while the AC is on I noticed that the air temperature increases to the point where its like the the AC is not on.

Ummmm, hate to tell ya Dave, but that IS the level of FREON in the reserve tank and what you describe is pressure built up enough gets the freon flowing, ....YES you CAN have the correct PRESSURE, but not enough FREON.

Once I start moving the air temperature goes back down. I do not think this is a problem with the freon charge, but either related to the drive belt or compressor.

Either way, you need to have your A/C serviced.

Dave - The compressor strength can be checked with a set of gauges. Mine checks out healthy, so that doesn't explain it.

Oh dear, again, PRESSURE does not EQUAL amount of FREON, in the system and in the reserve tank. You need to get it serviced.

The drive belt can only be a culprit if it's slipping, or altogether broken.

Yes, and HOLY HELL, broken?!, a broken belt means something is wrong, either a crappy belt to begin with or you did something major wrong, these cars are not old enough to have belts 'break' under normal conditions.


If it's slipping, you'd know it by an awful squeal. I suspect my cause is the 100+ degree weather and the airflow across the condenser.

YES, that is correct! (bowdown)

We always recirculate when running the a/c.

Good, that is correct thing to do.

Please go have your A/C serviced, it will be a lot better once done and you can tell the shop you take it to:

1. You want a report, what did it read before and after.

2. How much FREON did they add?

3. Air temps at the vent BEFORE and AFTER.

Let them know you're going to take it for a test drive for 15 min and come back either WITH improvements or WITHOUT improvements.

lastly, like I said cars are unique, not one car is the same as the other.

...there are other factors, one I've PERSONNALY had happen to me about A/C over the last 28 years....

a) water in the vent system, don't ask, long story.
b) Line leak, slowly about 4% per week, by summer's end, let's just say... the car was blowing hot air again.
c) Parked in shade or sunlight all day, (I know not your case, but still and another long story, but made short, ALL THE BLACK DASHBOARD has to cool before YOU get cool).
d) FREON LOW, after I just had it serviced ! The guy fought me for over an hour, then he said, "Ops, sorry" after I begged and BET HIM MONEY I was right, .... GOT 20% off the bill for my TIME WASTED and being right!
e) Bad compressor, dam thing had DIRT in the system and it clogged the dam compressor AND the A/C condenser lines. (DOH!)
f) Condenser leak, got it back from the dealer after I took it to them after an accident I had, (Snow, fence, front end, NOT GOOD) and well I got home, shut the car off and I hear this faint hisss sound,... well dah, leaking from the SAME Condenser that was in the wreck. !!! Gurrrr!

I could go on and on...

end is... get it serviced, it's not the single FAN.

Peace!(rei)
 
Oh dear, again, PRESSURE does not EQUAL amount of FREON, in the system and in the reserve tank. You need to get it serviced.)
1)Pressure = Charge Level. The system is Full, when the pressure (differential) is correct or within range. This also tells you the health of the compressor, if the differential is correct, then the compressor is doing it's job of compressing. PERIOD

Yes, and HOLY HELL, broken?!, a broken belt means something is wrong, either a crappy belt to begin with or you did something major wrong, these cars are not old enough to have belts 'break' under normal conditions.
I was simply addressing his concern for the BELT. Maybe I used too many words for you, but the expaination I gave was to clarify the only conditions that the belt could be the reason.

I don't keep bricks laying around as a gas pedal assistant.

Thanks for your insight though.
 
1)Pressure = Charge Level. The system is Full, when the pressure (differential) is correct or within range. This also tells you the health of the compressor, if the differential is correct, then the compressor is doing it's job of compressing. PERIOD

Agree. ...however, something is wrong, right?
get it looked at, my A/C even on the tropical
island of Okinawa Japan AKA: Surface of the
freaking SUN! ...mine be as cold as a winches tit.
Burrrrr ;)

...and fixing an A/C over the internet, dang it,
that is hard to do, I'm good, but not that good.(naughty)


I was simply addressing his concern for the BELT. Maybe I used too many words for you, but the expaination I gave was to clarify the only conditions that the belt could be the reason.

Sorry to have sounded so tort,
I get a running a full speed at times,
I re-read what I wrote, ow what a
D I C K, I sounded like, eh? (freak)
sorry.

I don't keep bricks laying around as a gas pedal assistant.

Oh gosh that is a shop essential,
no guy/gal should be without a brick,
they have so many useful uses...

50 uses for a brick*I don't endorse #42 ! (headshake

Thanks for your insight though.

Oh my pleasure, hope all works out well,
keep us posted, I intrigued to see what
gremlins

images


are in that A/C unit.



Peace!(rei)
 
Thanks Sarge, sorry to lash back at you. I wasn't having a good weekend. Will let you know what is found out.
 
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