Boring Daily Build

So this is where everybody went to have daily chit chat on the forum lol. Now following your thread
 
So this is where everybody went to have daily chit chat on the forum lol. Now following your thread

Yea, I'm the one who helped convince him to buy his old car back so I'm trying to help him fix it.

Feel free to offer any advice or info.

My knowledge and experience if from the perspective of my rust turd so I'm a little biased.
Lol
 
I forgot about this this thread...


 
I didn't have any problems, I was able to watch the piston as I slid it back down and I still had a nice gap.
 
My calipers were so tight at one point that I had to hammer them on.

I didn't notice that my boot was pinched.
 
quit pinching stuff and you won't have problems.

I keep forgetting to check the boot/rotor clearance because I'm old and drunk most of the time.
(and pot's Legal in Canada now too. Lol)
 
DONT GET CARDONE REMAN CALIPERS! I ordered a rear set and both adj. screws were seized, my first wagon hasn't had working rear calipers for 6 years now lol luckily they dont do too much. If you end up having to replace your tie rods in search for your steering bind I would go with a greasable set. I tend to lean towards moog, but I havnt used much else so it's hard to say what else is decent. Check you heat shield for cracks by the bolts, both of mine rattled and have cracks. Odds are if you gotta use a hammer on your brakes, something is probably wrong. I've done it myself about 6 or 7 times and everytime something breaks, shattered pads, gouged rotors, cracked calipers, pinched boots and broken caliper brackets 😂 my grandpa got me into cars and he wasn't very gentl with his work........might've rubbed off on me haha
 
I don't remember which caliper I ordered but I'm returning it, actually thanks for reminding me I need to do that. I replaced the drivers side tie rods with greasable Moogs. The boots on the passenger side are all torn so they may get replaced eventually. The heat shield is currently removed from me looking to see where oil was coming from. Luckily the front brakes went pretty smooth and all of the breaking effort seems to have evened out.
 
Maybe your pads just had a little extra material on one side and just needed to wear in? If it's a light rattle it might be your springs that hold the O2 sensor wires off the exhaust manifold. Mine was bent and tapping the manifold.
 
I'm just glad I don't have to replace a caliper, just not something I wanted to deal with.
I will check those out. The rattle was gone after I chopped off those two bracket/clamps on the exhaust and then it decided to come back. Rattles paranoia me into thinking the engine is dying (it is)
 
Finally changed the oil. Not a drop of oil came out of the filter again, so I filled it up with 10w30 and diesel fuel. We'll see how these next 50 miles go.
 
I didn't poke a hole in it.
Not really heavy.
I've never taken a filter off and not had some amount of oil come out.
 
Not really heavy...


If it's heavier than the new one then it's got oil in it.

Oil filters are designed to not make a mess when you remove them.

Mine always spills a little but it's heavier than the replacement.
 
So I was under the impression that the smoke was definitely improving because I'd have a very light cloud on startup and it'd be done in about 20-30 seconds compared to the 2 minutes I started with. Well, I just went out and started it to see what it'd do now with the 10w30 in it and back to square one with a big cloud of smoke. So I'd have to assume the smoking was only reduced due to clogging somewhere. I'll have to take it for a drive to see just how long it takes to stop smoking and see if there has been any improvement there. Maybe I'll try 5w40 diesel oil for a happy medium or even just 10w30 diesel oil...
 
Well, that sucks.
Are you just going to run it the way it is or are you planning on a rebuild or new engine?

You might be able to live with it the way it is.
 
you try replacing 1 quart of your oil with lucas oil stablizer yet? yes, it is definitely a thickener but if you're trying to squeeze some life out of your engine for a while longer, i don't see the harm.
 
Well if it was clogged up maybe none of the diesel fuel got to the rings so I'll see if there is any improvement over the next 50ish miles. I'm in no hurry to have a perfect engine so I'll keep playing around with this one before deciding if I want to rebuild it or find one from a junkyard.

I haven't tried Lucas yet because I've been using diesel fuel but I do have some that I will try next.
 
I finally got around to driving the Mazda today because it was blocking my Jeep. The smoking did stop within 20ish seconds so it does appear it has improved, however, that was with starting it and immediately driving away which some have said helps. Tomorrow night I'll go out and start it and see how long it smokes just sitting but I'm sure it will for a while.

Then when I pulled into the driveway I noticed something... Duh duhhh
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I knew this would happen before I got it inspected. MAF has been replaced but I may put in the old one or clean the new one. I suspect new plugs will fix the random misfire,
On a positive note the A/C still works nicely. On a not so positive note, the rear driver's door lock won't unlock and lock remotely. The passenger rear used to not but the PO fixed it, but left both rear door panels not completely installed so I need to get back there anyway.

Oh also reading through Anzi's build I saw that one of her injectors failed and contributed to her oil burning and I remembered when I did the valve cover gasket and the oil smelled like gas, so I wonder if that is the case for me as well.
 
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