Boring Daily Build

[Spencer_P]

Also it has now left some gas on the garage floor since the tank is full

Also something is rattling again

 

[pcb]

Also it has now left some gas on the garage floor since the tank is full
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That REALLY sucks.
Gas leaks are a huge dirty dangerous job.

My gas leak led to a new gas tank.

There's a good chance that you will be popping a code soon (small evap. leak) but my car didn't when it rusted through at the seam.
It may not have had time to register a code before I got the tank replaced.

You might get lucky and only have a leak when it's completely full and it may not throw a code.

 

[pcb]

Oh, by the way.
Don't ever overfill the tank it'll mess things up then you won't be able to fill your tank properly and gas goes where it's not supposed to.

When the gas pump handle clicks off, don't add more gas.

 

[Spencer_P]

The CEL has not come on in the 60 or 70 miles I’ve driven but that may change now that it’s leaking.
The large leak code never came back after I cleared it so hopefully I can keep the leak and code away by not it filling completely.
I’ll consider replacing it when I’m back at school with a lift.

 

[pcb]

The ECU will only check for the code when fuel tank us between 35% and 85% full.




Check to see if all your monitors are "completed".

 

[pcb]

I’ll consider replacing it when I’m back at school with a lift.

It may not be the gas tank itself.
You may need to smoke test your car to find the leak.


I know a couple of guys that can help you smoke test your car.

They have done it many times. Lol

 

[pcb]

Lift up your back seat and remove the access cover and take a look and sniff at the fuel pump housing.

They get old and crack and start leaking.

You may need to replace it.

You can buy just the housing instead of replacing the entire fuel sending unit at around $400.

 

[Spencer_P]

I’ll look under the seat and closer around the tank tomorrow.

 

[Spencer_P]

Here’s what happens to my rpm coasting downhill with my foot off the gas pedal.
Side note, before I sold it both the tach and speedo were dark past a certain point, like 80 mph and 4000 rpm, then when I got it back the first time I had the headlights on at night I was amazed to see everything lit up. Now we’re back to burnt out on the tach.

Untitled

New item · Album by 1996 XJ

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[pcb]

It's kinda hard to see but I think I see the RPMs bouncing.

Is it the car's RPMs or just the gauge?

 

[pcb]

The illumination for my stock stereo is doing the same thing.
I think it's a bad connection but it could be a special kind of bulb that can fail intermittently.

Most (if not all) bulbs just burn out and they never come back on.

 

[pcb]

If it is your engine RPMs bouncing, the ECU is supposed to cut the fuel with 0 throttle then turn the injectors back on at 800 RPM to maintain an idle using the IAC.

Did your RPMs drop below 800?

How's your idle otherwise?
Does your car idle normally when it's warmed up?

 

[Spencer_P]

Sorry I was trying not to hit a deer while filming that. I'll check tomorrow with my scanner to see if its actual rpms or just gauge.
Idle could be better but I wouldn't quite call it rough.
I'll get a video of that as well.
I plan to eventually clean IAC, TB, and EGR

 

[pcb]

You would probably hear and feel it if it was the engine itself bouncing the RPMs around.
You've got an automatic though so it might not be as noticeable.

If it's just the gauge misbehaving, it's a different issue.

 

[pcb]

... Then I went to get gas and I checked the temperature of the rotors when on for back, both at around 100 F.

I remember years ago someone posting that one of his rear rotors was red hot and was wondering if that was OK.
He had a seized caliper.

Another guy posted that when he had a very "spirited" trip home from work all of his rotors were red hot.

I personally would never want to drive my car hard enough to turn my rotors red but it can and does happen and could be considered normal under some circumstances.

Apparently, steel turns red at 900° F.

Comparing the temperatures of the two front and two rear rotors is a great way to get an idea of even braking and check for binding but if they're not red your not in the danger zone heat-wise.

 

[Spencer_P]

After driving yesterday the passenger was only about 20 F hotter than the driver front, so I guess I can return caliper.

 

[Spencer_P]

No leaky on top

 

[pcb]

Try to find the source of the drip.

Your car may need to be running to get it to drip.

 

[Spencer_P]

Well, last night it leaked on the garage floor while it was parked, then I drove it and parked it and it leaked on the driveway overnight. I drove it today about 15 miles and it doesn't seem to be actively leaking anymore, time will tell for sure but nothing dropped on the driveway while I was working in the garage all day. The fuel gauge has only barely barely moved from past F to just about at F. What I don't understand is if it only leaks when it's absolutely full you would imagine its leaking from the top but the top wasn't wet. Anyway, it doesn't matter I'm not worried about it, it leaked last time I had it and it leaked when the PO had it, and as I said I'm not doing anything until I can get it on a lift. So I'll wash off the underside and not fill the tank again.

 

[pcb]

..., it doesn't matter I'm not worried about it, it leaked last time I had it and it leaked when the PO had it, ...

If you're not throwing any codes or if it doesn't matter in your state, then don't worry about it.

Check your pending codes if they plug into your OBDII port to check.