Blown head gasket - need new head - Protege same as P5?

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Hey All, blown head gasket on my P5 from a prior radiator torque and leak. It took a year to blow after I tested the head gasket for leakage hot, warm and cold and got a negative leak test until she did a hard blow. There's no antifreeze in the crankcase, but I'm preparing to replace the head with one from pickn'pull. They've only got Protege and no P5's - are these heads the same across the '02 - '03 spectrum? It looks like they are 2.0L across all models from '02 - '03.

Any pitfalls to look out for? I see engine mounts as one potential and will buy new head bolts. somebody mentioned block warpage in an earlier thread, but that doesn't seem like that would be very common.

I've changed an engine and a tranny and have done 3 heads in Toyota Corolla's, so understand about getting the cams lined up properly, ist's just been a few years.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
Read another post where someone said Mazda thermostats are crap. Is this the location? Or the quality? Options? The thermostat didn't really register initially that the engine was hot until it was quite dry due to the torque in the radiator.
 
The temperature gauge in our P5 is a dummy gauge.
It is controlled by the ECU and doesn't start to move above the halfway mark until the engine temperature is really hot.
Almost to the the point of there being engine damage before it starts to move.
 
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The temperature gauge in our P5 is a dummy gauge.
It is controlled by the ECU and doesn't start to move above the halfway mark until the engine temperature is really hot.
Almost to the the point of their being engine damage before it starts to move.

Is there an under dash fix for that in an unused sensor hole? This blow out pushed out most of the coolant. The radiator was new, don't know if I should buy another?

Suggestions?

Thanks
 
You could install a separate temperature gauge and sensor on your car.
A bunch of guys have done it and there's lots of ways a to install the gauge.

You could even install a cellphone or iPad along with the torque app and an Elm 327 reader and it will show you everything all your sensors are reading, including accurate engine Temp info.

Your radiator should be fine because the coolant would have blown past the rad cap to keep the pressure down. (the rad cap is rated for 13.5-17.7 psi) although I don't know what you mean by "torque in the radiator" ??
 
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If by "torque in the rad" you mean that your engine is bouncing around so hard that it's pulling on then rad hoses, the you could have damaged your input and output connections on the rad.

Did your car overheat first and blow through the overflow tank or did you spring a leak somewhere first then overheat ?
You could pressure test your rad to see if it's holding proper pressure.
Replacing your rad hoses may be a smart idea.

Replacing your engine mounts will help relieve the stress on the rad connections and hoses.

The front and two side engine mounts are easy to replace. The bottom mount is a PITA. You would probably be good enough with just the three easy ones being replaced.
 
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Does the US have the 1.8 FP Protg?

If so then I have read the 1.8 FP head is a bolt on fit on the FS 2.0's, which will give a slightly higher compression, which results in mo powa!! (crazy)


The US FS 2.0 had a very low compression ratio to begin with when compared to the Euro/Jap/Australian FS 2.0.
 
I was thinking someone put torque in your rad... lol

No, I rear ended a MB SUV and all it took out was my hood and the upper tie bar. The adjuster said he wouldn't be surprised if the radiator blew somewhere down the line because of the torsional offset to the radiator. I didn't believe him, but kept my eye on it for a few months with no issues, but then it went slowly enough that I didn't notice the leak further down the road. It ended up being two quarts low and I did the leak test for the radiator, but it didn't show a blown head gasket cool, warm or hot - the head was good for another 6 months, then blew.

Thanks!
 
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