2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

Not difficult at
I have done my fair share of oil changes, brake pads, brake line replacements, ABS ECU replacements and such but I haven't touched anything relating to the pulleys/tensioners yet so I wouldn't know how difficult it is but judging by what I had go to through to take those crappy pictures, it does seem like a giant PITA LOL. I do have the offset box wrenches but if I had to perform this replacement, I think I'm going to try the flare nut wrenches that I currently have first since I don't want to round off any bolts but if any of you guys have replaced it, please post a step by step guide and the obstacles that have been encountered along the way.

I agree that $350 - 450 is outrageous but that was the price I was also charged for replacing the rear brakes so I'm not surprised at all and this led me down the path to DIY.

Also, I checked the price of the part that was listed PET2-15-980 and when I went through a few Mazda part sites, I see them listed for $100 - 120.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-tensioner-pet215980
https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-tensioner-pet215980

For the serpentine belt, I was wondering, would it be better to go with an aftermarket brand like contintental or should we stick with OEM?
not difficult at all after removing the front passenger wheel and the shroud. That provided plenty of room to work from above and below on this mini project. You can do it! : )
 
So if they are going back to the original part number were all those others a different 'batch' that had manufacturing defects?
 
I think I'm blind but I don't see any leaks in your photo unless you're referring to all the debris and grit that's stuck onto your belt tensioner. Otherwise, for someone that has never seen it before, it's hard to tell lol

My car has about 64k miles so I don't know if it's worthy of replacing it yet.
You can see 2 rubbing finger marks off oil stains on the round aluminum cylinder which is covered by oil and the oil is leaking out through the rubber boot seal on top. Here’s another picture:

1154A6AF-993E-4CBA-9D43-CF41F1FFD4DD.jpeg
 
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Not difficult at

not difficult at all after removing the front passenger wheel and the shroud. That provided plenty of room to work from above and below on this mini project. You can do it! : )
I believe this’s the official procedure stated in Mazda Factory Workshop Manual.
 
So if they are going back to the original part number were all those others a different 'batch' that had manufacturing defects?
There’re at least 6 different versions of belt tensioner. The current version PET2-15-980 was superseded by PE03-15-980C then supersedes it back last month. Who knows which one is the most reliable one among PE01-15-980A、PE01-15-980B、PE03-15-980A、PE03-15-980B、short-lived PE03-15-980C and the current version PET2-15-980?
:rolleyes:
 
For the serpentine belt, I was wondering, would it be better to go with an aftermarket brand like contintental or should we stick with OEM?
I personally would get OEM serpentine belt and water pump stretch belt. But it’s just me.
 
I think the oem ones (Belts) may be unbranded Dayco (which is a good brand) but I may be wrong.
They are relatively cheap , so I would vote for oem too.
 
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There’re at least 6 different versions of belt tensioner. The current version PET2-15-980 was superseded by PE03-15-980C then supersedes it back last month. Who knows which one is the most reliable one among PE01-15-980A、PE01-15-980B、PE03-15-980A、PE03-15-980B、short-lived PE03-15-980C and the current version PET2-15-980?
:rolleyes:

Wow that's a lot of versions.

If didn't already have a spare I would "try" the Gates 39390. I notice it has a different looking top part (black plastic cover). $65 and change from RockAuto. (Looks identical to more expensive AC Delco 39390). So whats the significance other than lower cost vs OEM? The Gates tensioner is listed as having a limited lifetime warranty. Not sure if its a typo? Plus I'm 80% sure any such warranty applies if installed by a certified mechanic.

39390-1_ANG_A__ra_p.jpg




I personally would get OEM serpentine belt and water pump stretch belt. But it’s just me.

If OEM belt lasted me 100k+ miles its good enough for me. I do have Gates belts in my Mazda6 and so far so good for past 17k miles. That said the serpentine belt takes the most abuse of the two I notice. My serpentine belt had tons of cracks whereas the water pump belt didn't show much......it was noticeably more brittle though vs the new strong pliable water pump belt. I would recommend not mismatching belt brands.
 
I think the oem ones may be unbranded Dayco (which is a good brand) but I may be wrong.
They are relatively cheap , so I would vote for oem too.
The Mazda OEM belt tensioner is made by INA and we can see clearly the “INA” mark on the damper. An INA tensioner can be had for about $50 at Rock Auto if they have one in stock. The OEM tensioner has gone up 40% recently on MSRP at $207.71, but we still can get it for $105.55 online from old stock of previous then current version tensioner I assume. The only problem to me getting the INA tensioner is the TSB said there’s a change on tensioner to prevent leak problem, but we don’t know if the INA tensioner is the revised version or not.

3467C1E0-E4F9-49F7-A3EB-94E7B9D7813B.jpeg
 
The Mazda OEM belt tensioner is made by INA and we can see clearly the “INA” mark on the damper. An INA tensioner can be had for about $50 at Rock Auto if they have one in stock. The OEM tensioner has gone up 40% recently on MSRP at $207.71, but we still can get it for $105.55 online from old stock of previous then current version tensioner I assume. The only problem to me getting the INA tensioner is the TSB said there’s a change on tensioner to prevent leak problem, but we don’t know if the INA tensioner is the revised version or not.

View attachment 227224

Would it be possible to call INA up directly and ask them or would this be something that's proprietary? Or can we just call a Mazda parts store up/Mazda corporate and ask them the revisions between the different models and why they keep switching back and forth?
 
This situation is bordering on ridiculous both confusion and cost wise. I hope the cheaper ones from Rockauto (or whoever else) stay affordable should it need replaced again.
 
The Mazda OEM belt tensioner is made by INA and we can see clearly the “INA” mark on the damper. An INA tensioner can be had for about $50 at Rock Auto if they have one in stock. The OEM tensioner has gone up 40% recently on MSRP at $207.71, but we still can get it for $105.55 online from old stock of previous then current version tensioner I assume. The only problem to me getting the INA tensioner is the TSB said there’s a change on tensioner to prevent leak problem, but we don’t know if the INA tensioner is the revised version or not.

View attachment 227224
I was talking about the belts that they may be Dayco :) and for the tensioner, if somebody has and idea how to squeeze a phone down there without disassembling of the car wheels and covers I can take a pic of mine's and its Ina side numbers stamped on it . All I could see is Ina but its too tight to see more. Not sure this can help though if somebody is buying the rockauto one vs oem.

Mine was replaced with oem very recently due to a leak. Visually its the same as the old one that came with the car. On the warranty work doc mazda part no. is the same as the mazda part no. from the tsb. The car is only 12k..sigh..but at least my dealer is awesome and very helpful.
 
My dealer installed tensioner, PET215980, has a price of $147.86.
Yep, in early Aug. this year Mazda was selling PET2-15-980 belt tensioner for $147.86 MSRP. Then was selling PE03-15-980C with 40% price increases for $207.71 MSRP. And within a month, switched back to PET2-15-980 again but the price has never dropped. :rolleyes:
 
Since it doesn't sound like anyone's tensioner has actually failed completely, just leaked, what is everyone's opinion as to what would take place upon a complete failure? Just curious.
 
I assume it would start with weird noises and eventually wobbling everything connected to the belt. (not accounting for any leak oil reaching the belt which would be bad)
but that would take some time and miles, may be a lot of miles who knows. the spring in the tensioner has to go first.
 
Since it doesn't sound like anyone's tensioner has actually failed completely, just leaked, what is everyone's opinion as to what would take place upon a complete failure? Just curious.

The tensioner on my Accord started to fail. Most of the time there weren't any symptoms. However, whenever the A/C compressor kicked on, the belt would squeal for about half a second - more like a chirp. It looks an awful lot like this one, so I imagine you'd experience something similar.
 
So would you guys recommend replacing it right now or should we wait until we hear signs of squeaking? Just wondering since I'm out of warranty and not sure if it's worth it to pay $100-150 if it's not required yet.
 
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