2013~2016 Belt Tensioner - Shouldn't this be a warranty item?

Boy, this tensioner thing is getting interesting! Like you said, just a month ago Mazda parts list had PET2-15-980 for $147.86 MSRP, now another new-and-improved tensioner PE03-15-980C is listed selling for $207.71 MSRP!!! :rolleyes:

Now the latest PE03-15-980C replaces: PE01-15-980A, PE01-15-980B, PE03-15-980A, PE03-15-980B, PET2-15-980!

I guess I’m lucky not to jump in too soon getting a new old-version tensioner last month when I noticed the leaky tensioner, although the price has jumped 40%!!!



The TSB says to use PET2-15-980 tensioner and “new modified drive belt auto tensioner can be identified by serial number F569897.13.”. My theory is the latest PE03-15-980C is equivalent to modified PET2-15-980 with serial number F569897.13., but added some expensive super sealing which caused the 40% higher price!

View attachment 226610
Now the version of this belt tensioner is getting stranger! All online Mazda parts stores now list PET2-15-980 again as the current version which supersedes PE01-15-980A、PE01-15-980B、PE03-15-980A、PE03-15-980B、and short-lived PE03-15-980C! The MSRP unfortunately didn’t adjust back to previous $147.86 for PET2-15-980, but is kept at $207.71 when PE03-15-980C came out about a month ago! :rolleyes:
 
Rock Auto sells the INA tensioner for less than $40.
So this has become something like Mazda OEM spark plug and NGK spark plug? Apparently INA makes Mazda OEM belt tensioner but why the price difference is so big? The only problem for me getting the INA tensioner from Rock Auto is how can we make sure it is the revised version described in the TSB?
 
At $40 I wouldn't care what revision it is.My original lasted about 4 years and pretty sure it was marked INA.
Yes all versions of Mazda OEM belt tensioner have INA mark, and should be made by INA. But I really don’t want the tensioner replacement becoming a frequent routine maintenance and would like to get updated parts which is supposed to be revised to prevent oil leak.
 
funny thing, I was checking two more cx5 with the same and exact Ina part no. as mine (that was leaking) and they dont leak. So its hit and miss.
 
funny thing, I was checking two more cx5 with the same and exact Ina part no. as mine (that was leaking) and they dont leak. So its hit and miss.
The description of the TSB 01-019/19 says:

“Some vehicles may exhibit oil leakage from the drive belt auto tensioner and rattling noises from the engine compartment. This may be caused by insufficient sealing at the drive belt auto tensioner damper when the auto tensioner fully operates under both high ambient temperature and high load conditions. To eliminate this concern, the shape of the drive belt auto tensioner damper has been changed.“

So for those living in hot states such as Arizona (CX-5um) and Texas (me), the damper may leak easier (and both of us did). If we can make sure the serial number on INA tensioner is F569897.13 or higher, that should be the revised version with better sealing on damper.
 
Does anyone have the DRIVE BELT AUTO TENSIONER REMOVAL/INSTALLATION section from the service manual? I want to know if there is a step that says to fully compress and release the tensioner a few times after its installed
 
Decent vid on how to remove/replace both belts. Also shows how to release tension on tensioner. Note, to remove the tensioner you must first release tension in order to remove the belt. Now all you need to do is remove 2 bolts. Easy?....well there's tight space. Luckily there's ample room from the wheel well :).

In other vids regarding tensioner replacement I noticed people bleed the tensioner by carefully and slowly releasing tension an then unrelease. Process is repeated 3 times. Perhaps I'll try that next time I replace the tensioner.



And another vid of the tensioner being released tension at the 7:20 mark. I would utilize such videos as "visual reference" but utilize the shop manual for actual instructions.
 
Last edited:
Just replaced my CX-5's Water pump belt. (I previously replaced serpentine belt) so both belts are new. CX-5 is just under 120k miles.

Shout out to Felix Dan for his video!!!!! Mazda Belts

I used this tool to easily release tension from the wheel well https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). It's angled slightly at the ends and long enough to provide ample leverage. See how much longer it is compared to a regular wrench. Now I'm looking for a 12mm variant for easier ability to remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the tensioner in place.
tool.jpg


Water pump belt: I studied Felix Dan's video with the goal of developing a "lazy technique" to remove and replace that belt. I didn't use a towel and pulled. I merely too a sharp blade and cut it slowly. 20 seconds later it was off with little effort! Now the install. Where Felix used his finger to guide the belt unto the water pump pulley, I used a chrome wrench's open end for leverage to apply firm inward pressure towards the middle of the belt in between the big pulley and the water pump pulley. The Chrome wrench is smooth and allowed the belt to glide on its surface as I turned the crank. The belt soon stretched over the water pump pulley and made its way into the water pump pulley grooves.
 
Last edited:
Just replaced my CX-5's Water pump belt. (I previously replaced serpentine belt) so both belts are new. CX-5 is just under 120k miles.

Shout out to Felix Dan for his video!!!!! Mazda Belts

I used this tool to easily release tension from the wheel well https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). It's angled slightly at the ends and long enough to provide ample leverage. See how much longer it is compared to a regular wrench. Now I'm looking for a 12mm variant for easier ability to remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the tensioner in place.
View attachment 227200

Water pump belt: I studied Felix Dan's video with the goal of developing a "lazy technique" to remove and replace that belt. I didn't use a towel and pulled. I merely too a sharp blade and cut it slowly. 20 seconds later it was off with little effort! Now the install. Where Felix used his finger to guide the belt unto the water pump pulley, I used a chrome wrench's open end for leverage to apply firm inward pressure towards the middle of the belt in between the big pulley and the water pump pulley. The Chrome wrench is smooth and allowed the belt to glide on its surface as I turned the crank. The belt soon stretched over the water pump pulley and made its way into the water pump pulley grooves.

nicely done. I used a ziptie to get my new water pump belt on. It’s somewhere here on the forum but I can’t remember where lol.
 
Just replaced my CX-5's Water pump belt. (I previously replaced serpentine belt) so both belts are new. CX-5 is just under 120k miles.

Shout out to Felix Dan for his video!!!!! Mazda Belts

I used this tool to easily release tension from the wheel well https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). It's angled slightly at the ends and long enough to provide ample leverage. See how much longer it is compared to a regular wrench. Now I'm looking for a 12mm variant for easier ability to remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the tensioner in place.
View attachment 227200

Water pump belt: I studied Felix Dan's video with the goal of developing a "lazy technique" to remove and replace that belt. I didn't use a towel and pulled. I merely too a sharp blade and cut it slowly. 20 seconds later it was off with little effort! Now the install. Where Felix used his finger to guide the belt unto the water pump pulley, I used a chrome wrench's open end for leverage to apply firm inward pressure towards the middle of the belt in between the big pulley and the water pump pulley. The Chrome wrench is smooth and allowed the belt to glide on its surface as I turned the crank. The belt soon stretched over the water pump pulley and made its way into the water pump pulley grooves.
Felix Dan is felixd In this community who has been posting several videos including the same belt replacement one here. Unfortunately it gets buried somewhere and it’s now hard to find. I wish we still have “How To” section like before.

How to replace V belt / Serpentine belt on CX 5

The belt tensioner on your 2013 CX-5 has amazingly lasted 120K miles. I wonder if you can see or take a picture of that long-lasting tensioner showing the part number and / or the serial number? What are the part number and serial number of that spare tensioner lying on the tool box? :unsure: See post #26.

BTW the value of that spare OEM tensioner now has gone up 40%!
 
Here are some photos of my timing belt, not sure if it needs replacing. Can anyone else take a look?
I did notice some liquid on the wheel in the first photo though but I'm not sure if the tensioner would be the cause.

1600954354405.png

1600953783959.png

1600954274254.png
 
Here are some photos of my timing belt, not sure if it needs replacing. Can anyone else take a look?
I did notice some liquid on the wheel in the first photo though but I'm not sure if the tensioner would be the cause.

View attachment 227207
View attachment 227203
View attachment 227206
There’s no timing belt for your CX-5 2.5L. There’s a serpentine belt for AC compressor and alternator. A second stretch belt is for water pump. A belt tensioner on the topic is for long serpentine belt. A leaky belt tensioner looks like this on my 2016 CX-5 at 41,150 miles:

FD384029-555F-471B-9E22-F46822689846.jpeg


So how many miles on your CX-5 which is the major factor to determine if you need new belts.
 
nicely done. I used a ziptie to get my new water pump belt on. It’s somewhere here on the forum but I can’t remember where lol.

I could've sworn there was that ziptie method!! I could not find it. Even so, I ran out of zipties so I sort of experimented with my own method.

Guys, while down there do a visual inspection and also feel around the back of the water pump pulley for crusted up coolant which is sign of waterpump is leaking out of its weep hole. Fortunately mine was smooth and no signs of old coolant.

The belt tensioner on your 2013 CX-5 has amazingly lasted 120K miles. I wonder if you can see or take a picture of that long-lasting tensioner showing the part number and / or the serial number? What are the part number and serial number of that spare tensioner lying on the tool box? :unsure: See post #26.

BTW the value of that spare OEM tensioner now has gone up 40%!

yrwei52, I kept the original tensioner in the 2013 there. I'm going for the record lol!!! It's in excellent shape. Aside from general dust it looks new. Is the original version too. I could not access to take a pic of the part number but pretty sure its the very first version. Perhaps its because its the 2.0 engine and there's less stress on it? So my backup spare New Tensioner is still waiting patiently in my tool cart:). I'm keeping a close eye on the revised tensioner in the 2.5l Mazda6. It too is still good.......for now. I highly recommend anyone to invest in a long reach 12mm and 17mm boxed wrench with slight offeset. You can also do a search for aviation wrenches as well. Sockets won't do good let alone fit down there.

tensioner orig.jpg
 
There’s no timing belt for your CX-5 2.5L. There’s a serpentine belt for AC compressor and alternator. A second stretch belt is for water pump. A belt tensioner on the topic is for long serpentine belt. A leaky belt tensioner looks like this on my 2016 CX-5 at 41,150 miles:

View attachment 227208

So how many miles on your CX-5 which is the major factor to determine if you need new belts.

I think I'm blind but I don't see any leaks in your photo unless you're referring to all the debris and grit that's stuck onto your belt tensioner. Otherwise, for someone that has never seen it before, it's hard to tell lol

My car has about 64k miles so I don't know if it's worthy of replacing it yet.
 
I could've sworn there was that ziptie method!! I could not find it. Even so, I ran out of zipties so I sort of experimented with my own method.

Guys, while down there do a visual inspection and also feel around the back of the water pump pulley for crusted up coolant which is sign of waterpump is leaking out of its weep hole. Fortunately mine was smooth and no signs of old coolant.



yrwei52, I kept the original tensioner in the 2013 there. I'm going for the record lol!!! It's in excellent shape. Aside from general dust it looks new. Is the original version too. I could not access to take a pic of the part number but pretty sure its the very first version. Perhaps its because its the 2.0 engine and there's less stress on it? So my backup spare New Tensioner is still waiting patiently in my tool cart:). I'm keeping a close eye on the revised tensioner in the 2.5l Mazda6. It too is still good.......for now. I highly recommend anyone to invest in a long reach 12mm and 17mm boxed wrench with slight offeset. You can also do a search for aviation wrenches as well. Sockets won't do good let alone fit down there.

View attachment 227216

I think another alternative to offset box wrenches would be flare nut crows feet. I have a set, paid about $40 and they're very high quality and can be used with a torque wrench as well. Something to keep in mind as they will not be as likely to strip/round the bolts. Can be used with a few extensions as well as a universal joint socket adapter set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
1600972512441.png


Universal Impact Joint Socket Adapter Set,2 Pc.
Universal Impact Joint Socket Adapter Set,3 Pc.
 
I think I'm blind but I don't see any leaks in your photo unless you're referring to all the debris and grit that's stuck onto your belt tensioner. Otherwise, for someone that has never seen it before, it's hard to tell lol

My car has about 64k miles so I don't know if it's worthy of replacing it yet.

Trust us, we know the Skyactiv engines's weak spots. The tensioner is up there. Damn you Mazda!!! Toyota's with these types of tensioner have the same issues too. One giant hurdle for us owners was how to get it replaced cost effectively. We're all sort of chipping ideas and techniques. I'm on my 2nd tensioner on my Mazda6 which is holding up so far. The CX-5 is paid off and I want to keep it a few more years with no payments. The install is tricky mainly due to a tight working space. The 2 tools I am suggesting highly negates the effort and complexity of this mini project. In conjunction with the instructions on the service manual and Felix Dan's visual videos it could be replaced yourself. Basically your pulling a wrench (edit*) counterclockwise, doing so releases tension allowing to move a belt aside, then unscrew two 12mm bolts. The tensioner is removed. Repeat the process backwards. Easy right? Yes but its in a tight dark area. Oh yeah having good lighting is a must which resolves visibility. The Wrenches I recommend resolve the tight space access.

I once inquired how much this would cost out of pocket to replace the tensioner and the dealer wanted something like $350 or $450.....I declined and was like, okay I'm doing this myself. Honestly the dealer labor should not be more than 1.5 hours of shop time. Something closer to $250 with part installed is a more reasonable price to me.

To answer your question I would replace it for peace of mind. Now, how handy are you with basic tools? Like can you change your own oil, change spark plugs, change brake pads? I would say to remove the tensioner with appropriate tools is easier than changing brake pads.
 
Last edited:
Trust us, we know the Skyactiv engines's weak spots. The tensioner is up there. Damn you Mazda!!! Toyota's with these types of tensioner have the same issues too. One giant hurdle for us owners was how to get it replaced cost effectively. We're all sort of chipping ideas and techniques. I'm on my 2nd tensioner on my Mazda6 which is holding up so far. The CX-5 is paid off and I want to keep it a few more years with no payments. The install is tricky mainly due to a tight working space. The 2 tools I am suggesting highly negates the effort and complexity of this mini project. In conjunction with the instructions on the service manual and Felix Dan's visual videos it could be replaced yourself. Basically your pulling a wrench clockwise, doing so releases tension allowing to move a belt aside, then unscrew two 12mm bolts. The tensioner is removed. Repeat the process backwards. Easy right? Yes but its in a tight dark area. Oh yeah having good lighting is a must which resolves visibility. The Wrenches I recommend resolve the tight space access.

I once inquired how much this would cost out of pocket to replace the tensioner and the dealer wanted something like $350 or $450.....I declined and was like, okay I'm doing this myself. Honestly the dealer labor should not be more than 1.5 hours of shop time. Something closer to $250 with part installed is a more reasonable price to me.

To answer your question I would replace it for peace of mind. Now, how handy are you with basic tools? Like can you change your own oil, change spark plugs, change brake pads? I would say to remove the tensioner with appropriate tools is easier than changing brake pads.

I have done my fair share of oil changes, brake pads, brake line replacements, ABS ECU replacements and such but I haven't touched anything relating to the pulleys/tensioners yet so I wouldn't know how difficult it is but judging by what I had go to through to take those crappy pictures, it does seem like a giant PITA LOL. I do have the offset box wrenches but if I had to perform this replacement, I think I'm going to try the flare nut wrenches that I currently have first since I don't want to round off any bolts but if any of you guys have replaced it, please post a step by step guide and the obstacles that have been encountered along the way.

I agree that $350 - 450 is outrageous but that was the price I was also charged for replacing the rear brakes so I'm not surprised at all and this led me down the path to DIY.

Also, I checked the price of the part that was listed PET2-15-980 and when I went through a few Mazda part sites, I see them listed for $100 - 120.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-tensioner-pet215980
https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-tensioner-pet215980

For the serpentine belt, I was wondering, would it be better to go with an aftermarket brand like contintental or should we stick with OEM?
 
Back