Bad sound while turning.

Mikeyman64

Zoomer
:
Atlanta
:
2002/2003.5 "MSP5"
Hello there follow zoomers,

I've got a 2002 Protege 5 2.0L 5spd. It's had a problem that has lasted through a tire change, strut change and 3 different alignments/balancings.

The problem is a sound. The best way I can describe the sound is "woop woop woop"... So, yeah. Some symptoms are:

Sound is worse (sharper) when I turn left.
Sound is still quite audible (bot not as sharp) when turning right.
Sound is barely noticeable when going strait.
Sound gets really bad when going over 55mph and then is back to usual at around 70mph.
-Could be related
Car veers ever so slightly to the right at any speed.
Car pulses slightly when applying brakes at low speed (e.g. approaching a stop sign). Bud that could be my pads (changing this week).

The first thing I thought it could be was maybe my right CV joint, but when I did some research, I found that most of the time when a CV joint "goes bad" it means that the boot has cracked/split and the grease oozed out. It will also make a loud "clicking" noise. I had this info backed up from a buddy who, in fact, did have a bad CV joint.

So then my second thought was my right wheel bearing. That would account for the "woop" sound and the veering.

Seeing as how one bearing will cost me $31.30 + shipping, and because I'm a bit obsessive I will probably get 2 (makes things even), I though that before taking a $62.60 risk, I would ask people that know what they're talking about. Any input would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
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Does anyone know how to get to the bearings? I've got everything off, including the locknut, but I can't get the axle head/knuckle off.
 
Does anyone know how to get to the bearings? I've got everything off, including the locknut, but I can't get the axle head/knuckle off.

Dude, get yourself a repair manual (there is a sticky on this forum where you can download it for free). You need to take the tie rod end and control arm ball joints out of the steering knuckle, and then detach the knuckle from the strut. If the knuckle still doesn't come off with the locknut removed, get yourself a puller and push the knuckle off of your axle shaft.

Once the knuckle is removed, you need to press the old bearings out/new bearings in. Since you most likely don't have the equipment to do this yourself, you're best off taking the knuckle and the new bearings to a shop and have them do the pressing.

IMHO, work on these cars is much too complicated to attempt without looking at a repair manual first.
 
here it is;http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/


Dude, get yourself a repair manual (there is a sticky on this forum where you can download it for free). You need to take the tie rod end and control arm ball joints out of the steering knuckle, and then detach the knuckle from the strut. If the knuckle still doesn't come off with the locknut removed, get yourself a puller and push the knuckle off of your axle shaft.

Once the knuckle is removed, you need to press the old bearings out/new bearings in. Since you most likely don't have the equipment to do this yourself, you're best off taking the knuckle and the new bearings to a shop and have them do the pressing.

IMHO, work on these cars is much too complicated to attempt without looking at a repair manual first.
 
for sure take it to a machine shop. as for the axle put the nut back on .. not tight though and hit it with a hammer . you will need to do this with the lower control arm as well to get the ball joint apart from the knuckle . oh dont hit the bolt on the ball joint . hit the knuckle that is attached to the stud . the vibration from the impact will separate the two
 
I've already got the manual, I just didn't know if I was doing something wrong since the knuckle wasn't budging. I'll try your suggestions jchapma9.
 
So did changing the wheels bearings fix your problem? My car is making the exact same sounds. What did you spend on parts and pressing the bearings out?

Thanks,
Ken
 
for sure take it to a machine shop. as for the axle put the nut back on .. not tight though and hit it with a hammer . you will need to do this with the lower control arm as well to get the ball joint apart from the knuckle . oh dont hit the bolt on the ball joint . hit the knuckle that is attached to the stud . the vibration from the impact will separate the two

Use a rubber mallet or you'll f-up your threads. Ask me how I know :(
 
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