2013~2016 Anyone install Ruthenium Spark Plugs yet?

Digbicks1234

16.5 CX-5 Touring/2023 CX-9 Touring
Hi All,

I was wondering if anyone has tried out the Ruthenium plugs on Rock Auto? It's supposedly better than iridium and platinum. If anyone has them installed, would you mind comparing them to OEM?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9779940&cc=3312788&jsn=1290&jsn=1290&jsn=1290

Ruthenium HX
NGK Spark Plugs is introducing the latest technology in high ignitability spark plugs to the automotive aftermarket: NGK Ruthenium HX. Today's efficient engine designs create more power while using less fuel and this has shortened the life of traditional Iridium and Platinum spark plugs. In response, NGK's patented Ruthenium technology is used for maximum durability and performance in newer engines where efficiency is demanded.

Features & Benefits:
  • DFE (double fine electrode) and PSPE (projected square platinum electrode) tip designs. DFE maximizes ignitability while reducing emissions for low heat engines, and PSPE provides the best ignitability and service life for high heat (typically turbo and supercharged) engines.
  • Superior oxidation resistance and enhanced blistering/anti-peeling to provide the most optimal durability at high temperatures in various driving conditions.
  • Advanced high-ignitability technology that provides more complete fuel burn than other precious metal spark plugs, resulting in quicker throttle response, smoother idle, and better cold starts.
 
I'm thinking of getting some of these Ruthenium plugs to see how they hold up. My plan is to change them close to 70k rather than the recommended 75k interval. The marketing does seem extremely promising and these are rather new to the market.
 
some related reading

marketing hype:

some science on the metal:

you are not alone to ask "is anyone using them?":

I would think a year after release that there would be more information.. but alas it seems a bunch of launch hype and then not much chatter. I guess that lack of information could be good because if there was a big problem there would be big discussions. Or could be bad because no one bought them and everyone is waiting for everyone else to report back.

reach out to: @coolbema and get an update?

or @rlacrossjr

or @CX-5um
 
Update 11/23:
I'm planning to pop my OEM plugs out sometime this week. I have a set of Rutheniums coming as well and I'll let you guys know how it drives compared to the OEM's.

Let me know if you guys want any measurements done from TorquePro or anything. I'll be sure to take lots of pics for you guys as usual :D

Also, I found a few threads in other forums that tested the Ruthenium plugs if anyone is interested. So far, it's been mostly positive with one bad review but it seems that maybe they didn't gap the plugs or it didn't play nicely with their engine, who knows....Only way to find out for the CX-5 2.5l would be to test it out.

For anyone interested in looking through, here are some links below:
  1. https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/ruthenium-plugs-who-here-has-use-them.21347/
  2. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/ngk-ruthenium-hx-higher-ignitability.37509/
  3. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/new-ngk-ruthenium-spark-plug-anyone-use-them.309771/
  4. https://genesisowners.com/genesis-f...-anyone-try-the-new-ruthenium-from-ngk.29952/
  5. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/925767-ngk-ruthenium-hx-testing.html
  6. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/823585-genuine-denso-spark-plugs.html
  7. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1591012
  8. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?s=098a32c21c1503acf8300cd74cba54e3&t=529185&page=3
  9. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/long-term-spark-plug-thoughts.360676/page-31
  10. https://www.infinitiq50.org/threads/ngk-ruthenium-hx-spark-plugs.133745/
  11. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/iridium-vs-ruthenium-spark-plugs.308256/page-4
 
Update 11/23:
I'm planning to pop my OEM plugs out sometime this week. I have a set of Rutheniums coming as well and I'll let you guys know how it drives compared to the OEM's.

Let me know if you guys want any measurements done from TorquePro or anything. I'll be sure to take lots of pics for you guys as usual :D

Also, I found a few threads in other forums that tested the Ruthenium plugs if anyone is interested. So far, it's been mostly positive with one bad review but it seems that maybe they didn't gap the plugs or it didn't play nicely with their engine, who knows....Only way to find out for the CX-5 2.5l would be to test it out.

For anyone interested in looking through, here are some links below:
  1. https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/ruthenium-plugs-who-here-has-use-them.21347/
  2. https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/ngk-ruthenium-hx-higher-ignitability.37509/
  3. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/new-ngk-ruthenium-spark-plug-anyone-use-them.309771/
  4. https://genesisowners.com/genesis-f...-anyone-try-the-new-ruthenium-from-ngk.29952/
  5. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-3rd-gen-2006-2011/925767-ngk-ruthenium-hx-testing.html
  6. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/823585-genuine-denso-spark-plugs.html
  7. https://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1591012
  8. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?s=098a32c21c1503acf8300cd74cba54e3&t=529185&page=3
  9. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/long-term-spark-plug-thoughts.360676/page-31
  10. https://www.infinitiq50.org/threads/ngk-ruthenium-hx-spark-plugs.133745/
  11. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/iridium-vs-ruthenium-spark-plugs.308256/page-4
Here Sushi-N-Sake put a set of NGK 92274 Ruthenium HX plugs in his 2014 CX-5 at 70K miles, no difference comparing to old factory plugs.

Unnecessary spark plug replacement?
 
Here Sushi-N-Sake put a set of NGK 92274 Ruthenium HX plugs in his 2014 CX-5 at 70K miles, no difference comparing to old factory plugs.

Unnecessary spark plug replacement?
Good find. A bit odd since most of the people that replaced them reported either a positive or negative response, none in between.

I guess I'll have to change mine and then find out. Will update this thread when I get a chance.
 
some related reading

marketing hype:

some science on the metal:

you are not alone to ask "is anyone using them?":

I would think a year after release that there would be more information.. but alas it seems a bunch of launch hype and then not much chatter. I guess that lack of information could be good because if there was a big problem there would be big discussions. Or could be bad because no one bought them and everyone is waiting for everyone else to report back.

reach out to: @coolbema and get an update?

or @rlacrossjr

or @CX-5um

Forgot to reply to your post but I really appreciate that you put together a comprehensive listing of all of the threads and people to reach out to. I know it was a month ago but I think it's my turn to do some guinea pig testing hehe

Honestly, for most of the forums on Google, you literally have to sift through all of the comments to find any reviews since most of them are dubious of the benefits of Ruthenium vs the other counterparts or just noise.

I guess my goals for switching to Ruthenium wouldn't really be the service interval nor cost but for:
  1. Acceleration
  2. Cold start performance
  3. Fuel economy
One concern I have about Ruthenium is the gapping. Is it worth it to gap it or should I just verify the factory spec set by NGK and then install? I see mixed reviews in general about spark plugs; some say to not adjust it because the tip will be messed up and some say to just use it as-is.

Ruthenium vs the OEM plugs
1606185287725.png
 
Update (11/28):
So I've decided to install new spark plugs before the recommended 75k interval that Mazda advised since I would like to see how my spark plugs are currently doing and also to test out a new type of plug. The below are some instructions, tools, specifications that I've used in addition to the attachments so I hope this helps anyone that is willing to perform this in the future.

Observation:
  • After changing the (4) plugs and driving 5-10 miles, I noticed a significant improvement in acceleration and the throttle.
  • The engine roar definitely seems to be more pronounced than before.
  • Bank 3 and 4 plugs were more difficult to remove but 4 definitely required more torque for sure.
  • No comment on fuel economy/cold start yet but I did not notice a significant improvement for the initial engine start time.

OEM/Part #'s:
A. Spark Plugs

  1. PE01-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5R-18-110
  2. PE02-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5R-18-110
  3. PE5S-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5R-18-110
  4. (OEM) (PE5R-18-110) NGK 94124/ILKAR7L11 (Laser Iridium): The only available spark plug that you can purchase from most if not all Mazda parts stores/RockAuto.
  5. (NON-OEM) NGK 92274/LKAR7AHXS (Ruthenium HX): The newest release; supposedly an improvement over Iridium. It is highly advisable to use OEM plugs unless you would like to be adventurous and explore. Based on my research, it is only recommended to use the same exact spark plug material type or better. In my case, I am using Ruthenium as a substitute because I am curious to see if there are any benefits. See link/attachments for more details (Ruthenium Spark Plugs).
B. Tools Required:
  1. (4) Spark Plugs of your choice
  2. Paper Towels: To clean of all of the crap/debris on top of the engine bay so that it doesn't get inside your ignition system.
  3. 3/8 Drive Breaker Bar
  4. 3/8 Drive Ratchet
  5. 3/8 Drive Torque Wrench
  6. 8 mm socket: Used to remove the (4) bolts holding the ignition coil.
  7. 10 mm socket: Used to disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid causing a short.
  8. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)or 14 mm socket: Used to remove the (4) spark plugs. I have both the Harbor Freight 5/8 inch and 13/16 inch spark plug sockets and both do not fit. I have also tested the 9/16 inch socket and it fits perfectly in addition to having a very useful magnet inside so I highly recommend the one that I've linked. You could potentially get away with using just a regular 9/16 or 14 mm deep socket but there's no rubber gasket inside that would cushion the spark plug porcelain so you run into the risk of damaging it if you're not careful. Most of the 14 mm spark plug sockets that I found are 12-point and I prefer 6-point sockets so I opted for the 9/16 6-point socket instead.
  9. (Optional) Spark Plug Gauge/Gap Adjuster: Mazda recommends the use of "wire type plug gap gauges" but you could also use blade types as well if needed. The reason why you would need a gap gauge is to measure the spark plugs gap (distance between ground electrode and center electrode) to confirm that the factory set values are within the OEM tolerance. If the spark plugs are not within the tolerance, then it would alter the amount of voltage draw required to cause the spark and this may result in misfires, fouling, loss of power, poor fuel economy etc.
  10. (Optional) Multimeter: You can use this to measure the resistance of your old/new spark plug and according to Mazda, your PE5R-18-110 should be within 3.0 - 7.5 kOhms (kΩ). For my Ruthenium plugs, I was unable to get a reading at all and I've attempted multiple times (ground electrode and terminal nut were my contact points) but the only thing I can think of is that I am not performing this procedure correctly.
  11. (Recommended) Dielectric Grease: The purpose of the dielectric grease is to aid in the: (1) installation/removal of the spark plug, (2) inhibiting moisture and (3) preventing an arc from occurring. It is recommended to use a thin coating of dielectric grease between the (1) porcelain portion of the spark plug or the insides of the (2) coil-on-plug-boot design of the SkyActiv 2.5l.
C. Spark Plug Gap Specifications (PE5R-18-110):
Type
mm
in
(a) Standard:
1.05 - 1.40​
0.0414 - 0.0551​
(b) New Spark Plug:
1.05 - 1.15​
0.0414 - 0.0452​


D. Torque Specifications:
Type
Torque Range
in⋅lbf/ft⋅lbf
1. Ignition Coil:
71 - 97​
in⋅lbf​
2. Spark Plug(s):
12 - 14​
ft⋅lbf​


E. Debatable (Personal Preference):
  • Based on the recommendation from NGK, you DO NOT need anti-seize as the anti-seize will alter the torque specifications of the spark plug and you run the risk of damaging the spark plug/threads from over-torqueing. (NGK Spark Plugs)
1. Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

F. Tips/Advice (Feel free to ignore the obvious):
  • NGK advises only to adjust the gap of the spark plug +/- 0.008 inches (0.2032 mm)
  • Highly advise anyone doing this to use a 3/8 breaker bar, ratchet and then hand loosen the spark plug all the way using the socket extension.
  • The connector on the coil on plug boot is very easy to disconnect. Just simply press down on the latch and slowly wiggle it left/right and pull backwards to disconnect.
G. Steps (In Order): Please perform this only on a cool engine as you will burn yourself. If you're uncertain, let the car sit for at least a few hours or overnight.
  1. Disconnect negative battery terminal (negative (-) symbol/black color) using 10 mm socket.
  2. Remove the engine cover by pulling upwards so the (4) grommets will release.
  3. Clean off any debris
  4. Remove (4) 8 mm bolts holding the ignition coils in place
  5. Gently pry the ignition coils upwards in a back and forth rocking motion and put the ignition coils aside in chronological order as they were removed.
  6. Use a 3/8 mm breaker bar with the 9/16 (14 mm) socket to break loose the (4) spark plugs.
  7. Use a 3/8 mm ratchet to remove the (4) spark plugs.
  8. Install the new spark plugs and torque the spark plugs to spec (see D).
  9. Lubricate the inside of the coil on plug boot/spark plug porcelain with dielectric grease
  10. Install the ignition coils back and install the bolts back torque to spec (See D).
  11. Before putting the engine cover back on, connect the negative battery terminal back on and turn the car on to see if there's any issues.
Pictures Below:
1606585929127.png

1606585915487.png

1606586407147.png

1606586450469.png

1606586459714.png

1606586472518.png

1606586483739.png

1606586499180.png

1606586512103.png

1606586547508.png

1606586570091.png

1606586559450.png

1606586579450.png

1606586586331.png

1606586593519.png

1606586608584.png


1606586658031.png

1606586669121.png

1606586677925.png

1606586706591.png

1606586745576.png
 

Attachments

  • NGK Q&A-SparkPlug.pdf
    12.7 MB · Views: 421
  • Ruthenium-Spark-Plugs.pdf
    286.5 KB · Views: 210
  • Spark Plugs Service Manual.pdf
    216.9 KB · Views: 229
Last edited:
Nice writeup Dig. I do detect one flaw in your conclusion about the performance of your new plugs: you disconnected the battery! Perhaps I'm wrong and you used a tender to maintain power in the vehicle, but if you didn't then the vehicle has reverted to "learning mode" and hence a direct comparison of performance before and after the plug exchange cannot be made. Did you maintain power in the vehicle?
 
Update (11/28):
OEM/Part #'s:
A. Spark Plugs

  1. PE01-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5S-18-110
  2. PE02-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5S-18-110
  3. PE5R-18-110: Mentioned in the service manual but superseded by PE5S-18-110
  4. (OEM) (PE5S-18-110) NGK 94124/ILKAR7L11 (Laser Iridium): The only available spark plug that you can purchase from most if not all Mazda parts stores/RockAuto.
Thanks for another very detailed write-up. Here’re more detailed informations about OEM spark plugs used on SkyActiv-G 2.0L and 2.5L.

For SkyActiv-G 2.0L / 2.5L the OEM spark plugs have 2 types: PE5R-18-110 and PE5S-18-110. PE5R-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE01-18-110, is made by NGK; and PE5S-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE02-18-110, is made by Denso.

Currently PE5R-18-110 is the only OEM spark plug available from Mazda dealers.

The NGK equivalent for PE5R-18-110 is NGK Laser Iridium spark plug ILKAR7L11 / 94124.

The Denso equivalent for PE5S-18-110 is Denso ZC20HPR11.

The torque spec on spark plug for 2.0L / 2.5L is 12~14 ft/lbf. A 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket is needed.

As for whether or not you should use OEM spark plugs or aftermarket NGK or Denso plugs, it’s your call.
Until I know that non oem plug meets the workshop manual resistance of 3.0*7.5 kilohms) I wouldn't use a non OEM plug. The ecu uses the spark plug as primary knock sensor. If the resistance is out of spec then you could end up losing power and or mpg. I've been meaning to buy a cheap plug from Vatozone and test the resistance.
What Chris_Top_Her has said does have his base. OVT (OrangeVirus Tuning) had posted following comments several years ago here.
Without getting into too much detail...you guys really...really..really want to use OEM plugs....
the reason is because the ECU uses the ignition coils, which measure a resistance across the OEM plug for pre-ignition, and extremely low levels of knock retard the knock sensor cannot pick up, along with that it gives the ECU individual cylinder information, the spark plugs are actually used "as a sensor."

How it works exactly is proprietary information that I am not willing to share, you want to use OEM plugs.
 
Last edited:
Excellent write-up Dig! Thanks for also posting the information in the CX-5 Resources section.
 
Nice writeup Dig. I do detect one flaw in your conclusion about the performance of your new plugs: you disconnected the battery! Perhaps I'm wrong and you used a tender to maintain power in the vehicle, but if you didn't then the vehicle has reverted to "learning mode" and hence a direct comparison of performance before and after the plug exchange cannot be made. Did you maintain power in the vehicle?

Thanks! You make a valid point about that. I didn't think too much about the learning process and I did not have any backup power sources. The battery was disconnected because I was afraid of shorting something during the replacement process.
 
Thanks for another very detailed write-up. Here’re more detailed informations about OEM spark plugs used on SkyActiv-G 2.0L and 2.5L.

For SkyActiv-G 2.0L / 2.5L the OEM spark plugs have 2 types: PE5R-18-110 and PE5S-18-110. PE5R-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE01-18-110, is made by NGK; and PE5S-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE02-18-110, is made by Denso.

Currently PE5R-18-110 is the only OEM spark plug available from Mazda dealers.

The NGK equivalent for PE5R-18-110 is NGK Laser Iridium spark plug ILKAR7L11 / 94124.

The Denso equivalent for PE5S-18-110 is Denso ZC20HPR11.

The torque spec on spark plug for 2.0L / 2.5L is 12~14 ft/lbf. A 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket is needed.

As for whether or not you should use OEM spark plugs or aftermarket NGK or Denso plugs, it’s your call.


Thanks for another very detailed write-up. Here’re more detailed informations about OEM spark plugs used on SkyActiv-G 2.0L and 2.5L.

For SkyActiv-G 2.0L / 2.5L the OEM spark plugs have 2 types: PE5R-18-110 and PE5S-18-110. PE5R-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE01-18-110, is made by NGK; and PE5S-18-110, supersedes old p/n PE02-18-110, is made by Denso.

Currently PE5R-18-110 is the only OEM spark plug available from Mazda dealers.

The NGK equivalent for PE5R-18-110 is NGK Laser Iridium spark plug ILKAR7L11 / 94124.

The Denso equivalent for PE5S-18-110 is Denso ZC20HPR11.

The torque spec on spark plug for 2.0L / 2.5L is 12~14 ft/lbf. A 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket is needed.

As for whether or not you should use OEM spark plugs or aftermarket NGK or Denso plugs, it’s your call.
You make a good point about the PE5R. I actually revised the model # I wrote based on your post as I probably fat fingered the letter. It seems like I had the PE5R and PE5S swapped for some reason since PE5S seems to be superseded by PE5R.

For PE5S-18-110, it seems like Ebay is the only available source to purchase from.

The spark plug that I used fit like a glove but it seems to be sold out now. If anything, the swivel socket is the alternative. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
 
The spark plug that I used fit like a glove but it seems to be sold out now. If anything, the swivel socket is the alternative. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Those NGK or Denso spark plugs are metric size. Officially we should use 14 mm thin-wall spark plug socket for them. 9/16” is 14.2875 mm and the 9/16” socket is a bit larger than 14 mm socket. In addition, the torque value is very low for spark plugs nowadays, 12 point socket won’t do any more harm than a 6-point socket although all of my spark plug sockets are 6-point. Finally, swivel function on spark plug socket is almost never needed on 4-cylinder engines.
 
Those NGK or Denso spark plugs are metric size. Officially we should use 14 mm thin-wall spark plug socket for them. 9/16” is 14.2875 mm and the 9/16” socket is a bit larger than 14 mm socket. In addition, the torque value is very low for spark plugs nowadays, 12 point socket won’t do any more harm than a 6-point socket although all of my spark plug sockets are 6-point. Finally, swivel function on spark plug socket is almost never needed on 4-cylinder engines.
I understand that they're metric sized but I just happen to like 6-point sockets so I purchased the 9/16 one instead :D. When I say they fit like a glove though, I mean it as there is absolutely no play/wiggle when I tested it indoors. Both a 9/16 and a 14 mm would work either way and yes, if you want to be exact, it's 14 mm.

I mentioned the swivel socket since the 9/16 one that I purchased ran out. I mean you guys are free to purchase whatever works for you, I'm just providing some examples hehe

For Example:
1606630320554.png
 
I bought a set of Ruthenium plugs for my NC1 based on the durability claims, but haven't installed them, yet. Still waiting on other parts.

Mazda would not be the first and might be the last to use spark plugs as a combustion chamber sensor. Since coil on plug systems came into use that has been possible. Why else would the coil have 4 connectors when it need a 2 to fire? For that reason, I'd be a little slow to change types.

Since Digs' OEM plug electrodes are rounded, it is not surprising new plugs felt better. They should be sparking more reliably/consistently.
 
Back