Any difference between the 2011 and 2012 Head Unit?

Sorry folks. They work on my machine, but it's probably reading them locally. I'm not sure how to embed them and I don't have a web site.
 
UPDATE: All done. Couple issues

Ok, so everything is reassembled and there are a couple issues but all in all things came out well.

The steering wheel control module does not work at all. I checked the wiring half a dozen times and auto-programmed it about 3 times and while it said it recognized my Head Unit, it never actually did anything.

The other problem is the A/C doesn't work. I guess Mazda didn't fix that problem for 2012. I plugged the OEM head unit into the T-Harness and sure enough, the A/C started working perfectly. I forgot to check if that might have affected the steering wheel controls. Maybe try that later.

Finally, I can't find the Reverse indicator wire to drive the Rear Camera. I assumed that since the OEM head unit had a back up camera and it automatically came on when in Reverse, that one of the wires in the OEM harnesses would be the reverse indicator and I could just tap into that. No such luck. I can't find any wire any where that is hot when in reverse. I can't find any information on the internet either so I'll just have to switch to the camera manually for now.


The power harness works very well and the Bose system and speakers really sound alot better with the Kenwood Head Unit.


Z-Thrizzle is ordering the Stalk unit from the UK for his steering wheel controls. I'm hoping that works for him and if it does I'll give it a try later.

In the meantime, if I want A/C I need to keep the OEM head unit plugged into the T-Harness. That sucks.
 
My A/C is not working either and I was unable to find a reverse wire. Also the wire that I tapped into for the speed pulse was the wrong one. When I get the Stalk Harness I'm going to try a wire going into the Info Display.
 
Thanks for the pics! My rearview camera is coming from Japan and I should be getting it this weekend. I'll pull the lift gate panel and see where I'll be wiring everything the camera.
 
UPDATE:

Problem #1:

The main problem with my install was the cutting in and out of the sound when connecting the OEM head unit to the service T-Harness. That turned out to be just a bad connection on one of the wires where I had cut them and respliced in the extension to move the OEM HU back to the cargo area. The Blue wire with Pink stripe to be exact. I reconnected it and it now works. I did notice that whenever I change modes or adjust settings on the climate controls it cuts the sound out for a second or so. I'm guessing I'll just have to live with that limitation. Also, when I turn the sound up really loud now, the AMP cuts in and out, whereas it didn't do that before hooking up the OEM HU. But it seems to work very well at normal listening levels and that should be good enough for me for awhile. I'm still interested in the Connects2 solution that Z-Thrizzle is waiting on. If that harness (which is intended for steering wheel controls not head unit connection) works to allow the A/C to work as well as the other benefits (controlling clock and such from the steering wheel) then I will probably order one and replace my steering wheel connector so I can disconnect that OEM head unit. But for now, I think it's OK.

Problem #2:

The AXXESS steering wheel control interface (ASWC) did not work for me. I was going to just "accept" that but stumbled upon a post in a Toyota forum about that exact steering wheel interface and my exact Kenwood model deck (DNX-7160). Turns out, I have to splice in a 12,000 ohm resistor between the Kenwood deck's steering wheel control wire and the AXXESS ASWC device - BUT ONLY DURING AUTOPROGRAMMING. Once it's done, the resistor is removed and the wires connected to each other normally. Amazing, but it actually worked. I can't believe it but it did. So I can confirm now, for those interested in the AXXESS ASWC steeing wheel control interface for your Mazda that the Volume Up and Down works. The Mode button works (changes sources on my Kenwood) and the other up and down button works (changes channels/tracks on my Kenwood). The Voice Command, Phone Answer and Phone Hangup buttons DO NOT WORK. To AXXESS's credit, they told me the voice command and phone buttons wouldn't work if the car had a separate bluetooth module and they were right. For what it's worth, I think the SWI-RC module from PAC wires a lead also into the bluetooth wire of the Mazda so it may allow phone answering as well on your aftermarket deck. It's not worth it to me to buy that one to find out honestly.

Problem #3:

OEM Sat Radio Antenna extension. Well, my 10' extension wire came and I ran it back to the back of the car using my piece of string I left in place to fish it through and it connected fine to the OEM antenna lead (after I removed it from the plug - see pics on that part in this thread). It connected to my Kenwood XM Radio module and worked great. So I confirmed that the OEM SAT radio antenna can be reused and you don't have to worry about running your own separately if you have to use an aftermarket XM radio. My only problem now is that my 10' extension wasn't long enough. I needed about 12' instead so I have the XM Kenwood unit just sitting in the passenger side floor right now until I can order another extender. All in all this ended pretty well.

Problem #4:

Can't find reverse wire. Still a problem unfortunately. I still don't know where the reverse wire is on this car. Connects2 has a model number that says it is for CX-9s that have built in reverse cameras. I haven't been able to get them to respond to emails to find out exactly what it does or if I could use that to expose the reverse wire to connect to my Kenwood. No big deal really. My camera works when I switch to it manually and it is a hell of alot better than the Mazda OEM camera. Would be nice if it switched on when in reverse automatically though. Maybe someday.


All in all it's pretty much done. I wish I could crank it without the sound cutting out so I may get that connects2 device at some point and see if that helps solve that problem (I'll let Z-Thrizzle find out if it works for him first) but it still gets plenty loud as it is without cutting out and if that's the only thing I have to live with, I'd call it a pretty successful install.
 
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Well back to the orginal topic, I've found the differences on my My11 vs My12 (AUS model) that the reverse cam doesnt have guidance lines in the newer MY12 model... weird
 
My intention was to use this thread as my aftermarket stereo thread once it got started, but i couldn't figure out how to change the thread topic.

sorry for the confusion
 
Update: New harness - things work!!!!

OK, I ordered the Connects2 Harness. I ordered the MTHMZ03 harness. I ordered it from here: http://www.carstereos4u.co.uk/search/results/CTHMZ03

NOTE: It doesn't look like what they have pictured on their site. It actually looks exactly like the CTSMZ010 harness pictured on the Connects2 site here: http://www.connects2.co.uk/c2search.aspx?catID=24&manID=217&modID=1353. The difference is supposed to be that it includes the wire for the REVERSE and PARKING BREAK sensors for navigation and rear view camera control.

Well, it works - almost completely anyway.

- A/C works. No more OEM head unit connected to a T-Harness in the cargo area! No more interference with the signal going to the amp causing cut-outs!!!

- Steering Wheel Controls work. Volume, Track, Mode all work with my Kenwood DNX-7160 (you have to buy the lead that goes with your stereo model separately). NOTE: If you do this, please note that you MUST connect everything up to the new stereo and this harness before you connect to the car harness. That is the last thing connected. Also, for some reason, it takes a little while for the system to recognize your stereo and figure out the steering wheel controls. When I first hooked this up I thought it didn't work and after about 5 minutes of playing music and testing out the stereo, the steering wheel controls started working.

- Clock Adjust, Fader Control (issue with bose system only I think), and Info Computer - ALL WORK! Now, if you read their documentation, they tell you that the display will change when you hold the MODE steering wheel button down for 2 seconds. Then you can track up and down to go through the options to adjust the clock or switch through the information items (mpg, avg mpg, miles remaining, etc..). NOTE: If you have dual climate control, you will not see the display change. It will NOT say "Settings/Info" like their instructions says it will. The display for dual climate control cars is different I guess and this device cannot control it (or maybe it's a difference between 2012 and 2011 because Z-Thrizzle's display worked as they instructed but I'm not sure if he has dual climate control or if the difference is because his is a 2011 and mine is a 2012. Anyway, even though the display doesn't change, the steering wheel controls still work as indicated in the instructions You just have to do it "blind" is all. I have refined the exact instructions below for those interested.

- Reverse Camera auto-on sensor. This unfortunately doesn't work. The wire is there in the harness and there's a wire in the OEM harness to mate with it, but it does not trigger my Kenwood to switch automatically to the back-up camera when I put the car in reverse. I don't know why. Maybe the Kenwood is expecting a different voltage or something but that's OK. My main concern was getting the A/C to work without having to keep the OEM radio hooked to that damn T-Harness on the AXXISS brand and that worked. I may check into why the reverse signal wire isn't working someday, but I'm not going to worry too much about it.

- Line Level speaker input (Bose system only). This works. The harness comes with an extra piece that plugs in-line with speaker harness lead that converts powered speaker leads from your aftermarket radio down to line level signal and passes that then to the BOSE amplifier. This works and the sound is OK, probably more than OK for most. However, if your radio comes with RCA out I believe it is better to use those as it provides a much much cleaner signal to the amplifier than one that is "dirtied up" by getting converted to line level from powered leads. Therefore I ordered another harness from the UK that I will put on once I get it that plugs into the ISO speaker connector on the Connects2 harness and provides 4 MALE RCA leads that I can plug directly into my Kenwood deck. This is the way the AXXISS harness worked and the sound was WAY better than what I am getting now with the Connects2 harness and I'm positive that is just because the signal is getting degraded from converting it from speaker powered output down to line level. You don't have to do this if you don't want but I wanted it to sound as clean as possible. Don't get me wrong, the sound is excelllent the way it is now. It's just I'm picky and I know the sound was tighter, punchier and cleaner with the other harness because it was using line level input from the start. This is the extra harness I ordered if anyone is interested: https://www.secure-server-hosting.com/secutran/transactionsi1.php


General information about the Connects2 Harness:

These harness use ISO car audio connectors. We don't use them in the United States that I have ever seen, but they're used in other parts of the world - mainly Europe but probably everywhere else as well. In any case, you can look these up anywhere and see the pin-layout. The Connects2 labels each wire on the speaker connector (the brown one) but does not on the power connector (the black one). You'll have to cut these off and strip the wires to connect them to your stereo. The black one has the standard wires: Red = 12V swtched, Yellow = 12v constant, Black = ground, Orange = Illumination

Here's a link to a WIKI page that I found that explained it as well: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connectors_for_car_audio



Instructions for using the Steering Wheel controls on the Connects2 without display to guide you:

(NOTE: These worked for me after lots of trial and error and I'm writing this from memory so if I get some of this wrong, I'm sorry)

To adjust the CLOCK:

  1. Press and hold MODE for at least 2 seconds, then release
  2. Press MODE once again (do not hold down this time)
  3. Press and hold TRACK DOWN to enter clock adjust mode
  4. With other hand, press VOLUME UP once to adjust HOUR. (NOTE: the hour will start scrolling by itself. Just let it go until you get to the hour you want)
  5. Release TRACK DOWN button once the clock displays the hour you want (you might have to try a couple of times as the hour scrolls pretty quickly)
  6. To adjust MINUTES, start over with the same steps from the beginning only press VOLUME DOWN in step 4 to scroll minutes.
  7. Release TRACK DOWN when you get to the minutes you want


To adjust the FADER (I think you only need this control when you have a BOSE system):

  1. Press and hold MODE for at least 2 seconds, then release
  2. Press TRACK DOWN once and release
  3. Press MODE once and release
  4. Press the TRACK UP and TRACK DOWN button to fade between front and rear speakers. UP is toward front and DOWN is toward rear. You will have to listen to the music and stop when you get it the way you like it because you have no display to tell you where you are with this adjustment.
  5. Press MODE again to exit (or wait 10 seconds)


To change the TRIP/INFO display:

  1. Press and hold MODE for at least 2 seconds, then release
  2. Press MODE again once and release
  3. Press the TRACK UP (do not hold) repeatedly to toggle through the trip computer options.
  4. Press MODE again to exit (or wait 10 seconds)


Again, these all worked for me but I did this from memory so I may have missed a step. Just keep trying if I got it wrong.



In summary, here is a list of all the things I ended up buying to get my stereo installed.




I think I'm about done with the stereo install now!!!!
 
It's great to hear that this harness also works for the Bose system. Thanks for detailing everything out. I'm sure this is going to be really helpful for others looking to upgrade. I'll post some info on my setup soon. (still haven't run the wires through the carpet and panels for the camera)

I'm not completely sure about the display regarding "settings/info". I have dual climate control as well. Though I haven't tested going through the settings while dual climate control was on. The pic below is when I was testing the clock adjustment but tempurature dash cover and control were not connected.

ba1e7f13.jpg


mightymavkev, does your info display has "Mazda" in that section when you're not operating the settings? Mine displays this when I'm not toggling through. Though I'm not sure if the car normally displays this or if it's because of the module. I pulled my radio out within weeks of having the car so I don't remember if this was displayed or not.
 
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Mine is definitely different. It does not display any words at all in that section as I think they made it smaller. Here's a pic of mine:

attachment.php


The section just right of the TIME is much shorter on mine than yours. I believe they did that maybe to make room for the Passenger Side AirBag warning light which, on mine, is to the right of this display panel. It looks like yours might be wider maybe because that warning light is somewhere else?

In any case, I have no "MAZDA" on the display ever and certainly don't get this "INFO/CLOCK" on mine.
 
Yeah that is different. The warning light is on the right side of the passenger tempurature.
 
In summary, here is a list of all the things I ended up buying to get my stereo installed.
I think I'm about done with the stereo install now!!!!

THIS is amazing info, thank you! I have a Kenwood DNX-9960 that was installed in my 2002 Mazda Protege. Unfortunately, I recently had an accident with that car (which I owned since day 1), and it was declared a total loss :( Needless to say, I made sure to remove the DNX-9960 before parting with the car.

I am now looking to buy a family car and highly considering the CX-9 or the Acura MDX. I did a Google search for "CX-9 double din" and stumbled on this thread. I'm really wondering if I need to buy the Nav & Bose option with the CX-9 or if I'd be better off installing the DNX-9960, which is pretty much a better system.

I realize I will lose out on a few stock features if I install the DNX-9960...
 
I've heard nothing but bad things about the OEM navigation unit. But I've not used it myself so I can't offer any opinion. I knew I was not going to attempt to buy it from the beginning so I never considered it. Even if I couldn't get my nav in there, I would have just used my TomTom app on my iPhone or my Garmin NUVI.

IF you don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks (maybe less) and waiting for the stuff you need from the UK, I'd definitely install your 9960. I don't think there is any comparison.

Also, I believe the only issue with the A/C is on the 2011 and 2012. So if you're not buying new and get 2010 or older, you may not have that problem and could use the AXXESS harness which offers the T-Harness to allow temporary connection to the OEM radio to adjust the clock. I still like having everything controllable from the steering wheel though and my kenwood phone controls are pretty easy to answer without having a button on the steering wheel to answer and hangup, so I don't miss that.
 
Reviewing this thread, makes me want to abandon trying to retrofit the factory nav into my 2010! The whole thing for with the aftermarket Nav is control of the information options, from inside the car without using the kluge involving the factory radio. Looks like it can be done by using most of the information in this thread? I would just have to determine which of the options identified in this thread, I do not need?
 
Well, I know from mine and zThrizzle's experience, the Connects2 Harness from the UK works on the 2011 and 2012 to let the A/C keep working as well as allow control of Fader, Clock, and Trip Computer from the steering wheel controls.

On all of the different sites where you order the Connects2 Harness from, they all say it is for CX-9 from 2009 and up. So I would take that to mean it would allow you to do the same on your 2010.

Here's the site I bought mine from. http://www.incarmusic.co.uk/category/1867/Mazda-CX9

I don't know where zThrizzle got his but it's the same.

I can tell you that the one unit that is supposed to "restore the parking tone" provides a Reverse and Speed Sensor wire whereas the other one doesn't. However, the Reverse wire did not work with my Kenwood deck so we still haven't found a way to get that to work.

If I were you, regardless, I would not try to retrofit the OEM nav. I've heard it is awful and you will not be happy with the navigation. I've not used it myself, but I've heard even from the dealership themselves that it is garbage and you're better off sticking a NUVI on your windshield.

Aftermarket units with NAV are much cheaper as well. The Kenwoods use Garmin's navigation so for those familiar with the Garmin units, they'll feel right at home.
 
Same here, but I don't think the car's mic is that good. People have complained that the OEM setup doesn't sound that well. My Kenwood uses a Parrott setup and it did pretty well in my other car, so I'm OK if I have to use its mic, but would be nice to reuse the OEM one - I agree.

The OEM deck has about 5 connectors. After the obvious AM/FM antenna lead and the large power connector, I believe the others are probably for the Sirius, Bluetooth Module and the signal wires to the amp.

The problem is on the T-Harness, the picture only shows two connectors. The large one (with the "T" for connecting the OEM deck branching off it) then another set. I don't know what the other set is for but assumed it was the connector that led to the RCA leads.

I suppose we'll know soon enough, but I'm a little discouraged from Metra's site as well as that of the manufacturer (Axxess) that it doesn't mention any of those wires nor shows a wiring or connectivity diagram.

So, I'm expecting that stuff not to be there, but hoping they are.

I'd REALLY like to use the Sirius installation that's arleady in the car and take advantage of the built in antenna on the roof more than anything. I would hate to have to run that ugly magnetic one up there and sit it next to the built in one. My only hope is that because the Sirius module is relatively standard that if I can find it I might be able to tap into the antenna lead with another connector or something. My kenwood has the XM add-on, but they're pretty much the same anymore since they joined companies ( I believe Kenwood will support both XM and Sirius add-on modules anyway).

The Sirius connection to the radio is probably a proprietary one in both cases, hopefully it is not. From what I have seen both the aftermarket and factory use their own special set-up for that so you tend to be forced to buy their accompanying modules.
 
Well, I know from mine and zThrizzle's experience, the Connects2 Harness from the UK works on the 2011 and 2012 to let the A/C keep working as well as allow control of Fader, Clock, and Trip Computer from the steering wheel controls.

On all of the different sites where you order the Connects2 Harness from, they all say it is for CX-9 from 2009 and up. So I would take that to mean it would allow you to do the same on your 2010.

Here's the site I bought mine from. http://www.incarmusic.co.uk/category/1867/Mazda-CX9

I don't know where zThrizzle got his but it's the same.

I can tell you that the one unit that is supposed to "restore the parking tone" provides a Reverse and Speed Sensor wire whereas the other one doesn't. However, the Reverse wire did not work with my Kenwood deck so we still haven't found a way to get that to work.

If I were you, regardless, I would not try to retrofit the OEM nav. I've heard it is awful and you will not be happy with the navigation. I've not used it myself, but I've heard even from the dealership themselves that it is garbage and you're better off sticking a NUVI on your windshield.

Aftermarket units with NAV are much cheaper as well. The Kenwoods use Garmin's navigation so for those familiar with the Garmin units, they'll feel right at home.

yeah, I bailed on the factory nav, if I install Nav it will be an aftermarket one, and use the clock on the Aftermarket unit.
 
Hi all,

I'd like to get some advice or share your experience with replacing the OEM radio in a 2013 CX-9 with Bose system. I've just purchased Metra MZTO-01 adaptor and tried to connect it with my Pioneer AVIC-F50BT unit. The only result is that when I turn on the ACC or ignition, loud interrupted beep sound comes out from speakers.

Could anybody please give me advice on what can be wrong? I'd appreciate advice on connections from someone who's using this adaptor or some experience with replacing the OEM radio in 2013 CX-9 with Bose.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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