Alarm Sound when Replacing Stereo (2015 CX-9 w/ Bose)

C

cantelopehea

I've got the 2015 CX-9 with Bose and Navigation but the Head Unit was awful so I'm replacing it with an Android unit. I'm getting the most heinous alarm-like sound so loud out of the speakers you can't stay in the car. The tone goes on for 1 second, off for one second and never ends.

I've double and triple checked the wiring. Not my first replacement.
I've tried another, new, same model, Android unit - same problem.
I put the original radio back in - problem goes away.
I've replaced the Crutchfield harness and PAC (steering wheel controller) and still the problem exists.

The alarm sound starts when the key is turned on and will not shut off until the key is turned off (starting makes no difference). The unit powers up and is operable except NO sound comes through between the Alarm tones. Probably about 120 decibels alternating on and off every second. I've talked to Crutchfield, and the PAC (Steering Wheel Controlled Company) for hours and they cannot find the cause. Does anyone know or have experience with this and can offer help?
 
Hi, did you have any luck figuring this out? I came across the same problem about 2 years ago when I tried to upgrade mine and gave up.
 
Exactly which head unit did you purchase? My guess is it's one of those dirt cheap no-name "pure Android" units from a company no one has ever heard of. Those are TRASH.

Go with a name brand Android Auto stereo from a reputable company: Kenwood, Alpine, Sony, Pioneer, JVC. Sure, they cost a few dollars more, but as you're finding out, you get what you pay for.
 
In my case it was a real trash "Seicane". Weird thing was that it plays fine until you turn the ignition from ACC to ON so it might be some sort of signaling issue.
 
Yup, garbage unit.

Seicaine, Eonon, Erisin, Joying, Atoto, Autopumpkin, (insert random name here) are all made by the same crap Chinese company: Shenzhen Klyde. And all of them, every last one, are garbage, with absolutely no care paid to QA/QC.

IF, IF you get one that works correctly, it's a small miracle.

Like anything else in life, you get what you pay for.
 
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The issue is not related to the head unit, it is the CAN bus adapter in the RP4. You must use ON or start the car when powering up the unit after the battery is disconnected. Using ACC on initial power up causes the amp to put out the loud alarm/beeping sound. Once you initialize the install using ON or starting the car, the head unit will function using ACC.
 
Thanks for this. This is probably right as I found something similar elsewhere. It wasn't a cheap unit, I had two name brand units with same issue. I brought it to a professional installer and they couldn't figure it out either. I gave up on this. Just got a cheap tablet and mounted it in front of the original head unit. Great for navigating plus with Bluetooth works great as sound source. Perfect? Nope, but works fine for me.
 
@rpnociti I've just gone and done the same install and come up with exactly the same problem. Actually for me starting up in the ACC position doesn't produce the sound, so the unit can be used perfectly and the sound works fine when in ACC. It's only when the key is turned to ON or when the car is started (either from off or from ACC) that the alarm sound starts up. Is there actually a fix to this? Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks
 
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I don't have any idea why that would be the case. I pieced together information from a couple of internet searches to figure this out in my case. Any chance you have a couple of wires mixed up in your installation? Just wondering if the constant 12+ volt wire and the ignition switched 12+ volt wire might be mixed up. Just a thought.
 
@rpnociti I've just gone and done the same install and come up with exactly the same problem. Is there actually a fix to this? Any help would be hugely appreciated.
 
rpnociti said:
I don't have any idea why that would be the case. I pieced together information from a couple of internet searches to figure this out in my case. Any chance you have a couple of wires mixed up in your installation? Just wondering if the constant 12+ volt wire and the ignition switched 12+ volt wire might be mixed up. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Yeah really odd. I don't think I've messed up any of the wires. With the AERPRO harness I've got the only actual wiring to do was to hook up the amp trigger from the harness to the remote trigger from the head unit. Eonon (the head unit manufacturer) suggested I use the blue antenna power wire as the remote trigger, so that's what I've got it hooked up to. Most forums I've found suggest using a blue and white striped wire from the head unit to trigger the amp, but the Eonon doesn't seem to have that.

Have contacted AERPRO and Eonon either way, see if they can suggest anything. Thanks for the reply!
 
For information/clarification, I installed a Pioneer head unit using a PAC RP4-MZ11 wiring interface. As I understand it, my issue was related to the PAC interface and not the head unit. It sounds like you might be using a different interface and that might be why you are experiencing a somewhat different issue. Good luck.
 
mazdacx9112 said:
did you manage to fix this? Having same issue
Click to expand...
Hey @mazdacx9112 this was the bane of my life for like 2 months. I'd have never bought a car without carplay/android auto if I didn't have the option to install it (I've done the same install on previous cars without issue). I must have uninstalled and reinstalled it 20 times trying different fixes, tried different head units, tried rewiring parts of the harness on the advice of different car audio technicians. Even emailed Bose and got zero response.

Long and short none of it worked, so I just paid someone to replace the amp with an aftermarket amp. Low and behold it works perfectly. And the sound is markedly better than with the Bose amp as well. I'm now irrationally angry with Bose for producing an amp that has such a weird issue. But glad I've got it fixed.
 
hambly said:
Hey @mazdacx9112 this was the bane of my life for like 2 months. I'd have never bought a car without carplay/android auto if I didn't have the option to install it (I've done the same install on previous cars without issue). I must have uninstalled and reinstalled it 20 times trying different fixes, tried different head units, tried rewiring parts of the harness on the advice of different car audio technicians. Even emailed Bose and got zero response.

Long and short none of it worked, so I just paid someone to replace the amp with an aftermarket amp. Low and behold it works perfectly. And the sound is markedly better than with the Bose amp as well. I'm now irrationally angry with Bose for producing an amp that has such a weird issue. But glad I've got it fixed.
Click to expand...
Cost me $850 AUD to replace the amp with a 5 channel that the tech recommended. Overall I spent about $1300 total on a 10 inch head unit with wireless carplay/AA and different harnesses plus the amp. I do love it, it works brilliantly. Mazda had quoted me $2k to put in a 7 inch unit with wired carplay/AA only. So I've saved a good amount of money and got a better system. God knows how many years the stress has taken off my life though.
 
mazdacx9112 said:
Interesting. So you just replaced the amp and kept the whole rest of the OEM bose setup + your new head unit, adapters, etc?
Click to expand...
Yup. Plug and play harness, head unit, OEM speakers. All the same. Just amp changed and the issue is gone. I didn't do the install as rewiring an amp is past my level, so I can't tell you if there were intricacies to the wiring set up that were needed to make it work. But it works now.
 
mazdacx9112 said:
Awesome. Do you know by any chance which amp was it? Just in case im unable to fix using the battery disconnect trick.

D
Click to expand...
Zapco ST-5B

www.malagacaraudio.com.au

ZAPCO ST-5B CLASS-AB 5CH AMPLIFIER

ZAPCO ST-5B CLASS-AB 5CH AMPLIFIER Features: 5-Channel, Class-AB Full Range Amplifier Stable into 4 ohms bridged or 2 ohms stereo load MOSFET power supply RCA and OEM speaker level input Variable Inputs Gain Control Variable FULL / LP / HP Electronic Crossover Variable Bass Boost Specifications...
www.malagacaraudio.com.au

I tried removing the fuse, disconnecting the battery, reset the unit, multiple different combinations of starting up the car in different positions (ACC, ON, START), tried a voltage reducer, tried a different supply to the amp trigger, rewired bits of the harness (my nice AERPRO harness now looks like a frankenstein mess). All the audio techs I had look at it found it very interesting lol, but none could help. A couple suggested trying a different harness (before I pointed out that there are multiple forums with people having the same issue with other harnesses). It was actually my idea to replace the amp, and a few of the techs were doubtful it would work, so it was a gamble spending that much, but I'm very glad I did.
 
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