Advice for replacing brake pads on 2017 Mazda6?

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Spring TX
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2017 Mazda6
I have a 2017 Touring with 57,000 miles and I’m replacing the front brake pads & rotors this weekend. I’ve done brakes twice before on a Ford Expedition 2008, so I kind of know what to do. Rear pads still have 50% so I’m waiting. I bought Centric C-Tek rotors and Posi Quiet Pro Pads from RockAuto.

A couple of questions:

Should I bleed the brake fluid & replace? Never done it but seems straightforward after reading stuff posted here & other forums.

If so do your recommend the gravity drain/ 2 person method or use a pump like the clerk at Advanced Auto showed me?

Should I use anti seize on the back of the new rotor? Like Permatex

I am replacing the caliper pins and boots too. Is Permatex Ultra okay for lubricating them? It's readily available at Advanced.

I will bed them after replacement per several posts I've read.

Thanks for your feedback and any recommendations.
 
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13' CX-5 and 16' Mazda6 both Touring w/Tech/Bose
57k miles yeah I'd bleed the brakes. I used this product and vid to do a 1-person job

I high recommend getting two products: Any cooper-based antisieze and any high temp silicone grease like Silaramic Brake Grease.

**Important** Only use High temp silicone grease for lubricating pins. Why? non-silicone lubs may not be compatible with the rubber boots and o-rings on the pins.

Copper Antiseize for backing of pads and tiny tiny bit on edges of pads where they slide unto the brake pad hardware (sliding clips).
 
57k miles yeah I'd bleed the brakes. I used this product and vid to do a 1-person job

I high recommend getting two products: Any cooper-based antisieze and any high temp silicone grease like Silaramic Brake Grease.

**Important** Only use High temp silicone grease for lubricating pins. Why? non-silicone lubs may not be compatible with the rubber boots and o-rings on the pins.

Copper Antiseize for backing of pads and tiny tiny bit on edges of pads where they slide unto the brake pad hardware (sliding clips).
Concur with the copper anti-seize. As CX-5um stated. And on those pins re lubricating? A little high temp silicone goes a looooong way. Just a dab. Take your index finger and run it alongside the pin length on the surface and all the way around. It may appear as if you haven’t done a Cotton-picking thing to lubricate them, but you have. And adequately, too!

An old mechanic’s act of faith procedure: loosen the bleeder screw after gently clamping the rubber brake hose line. Now you can push the piston back and the old fluid exits the bleeder valve. As you disengage the caliper, this prevents the old brake fluid from pushing back up into the master reservoir. And makes bleeding so much easier. Tighten the bleeder screw, release the clamp. A quick pumping of the brake pedal and you’re done. To say nothing of less fluid all over the place. Don’t freak out, but I use a small set of vise-grip pliers and squeeze the hose just enough to to close off any avenue for the fluid to run back up into the master cylinder. Just a mild clamp. No danger of damaging the brake hose.

A friend of mine uses a length of rubber tubing over the bleeder screw and the other end into a soda pop can to catch the excess from the bleeding process. That few minutes of prep will save you a lot of after clean-up.

Edit: Just watched “Brooklyn’s” video. I believe he is onto something. 👍
 
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