Included in this thread are a few pictures of the the installation I completed in my 2016 Mazda CX-5 that I bought last year. I have been slowly accumulating the products and materials for the install over the course of the past year. I finally acquired all necessary items a couple weeks ago and found the time to install them last week. I am new to Mazda247 and posting threads in general so please keep this in mind if my thread has the markings of a novice. I was unaware that you could not post more than 5 photos per thread, so I will try to include a link below to my photobucket album that showcases the install in its entirety.
http://s350.photobucket.com/user/TRayWalls/library/2016 Mazda CX-5 Stereo Installation
Below is a list of (most) of the products that I used in the install.
Products:
Front Speakers (dash): Polk db351
Front Speakers (door): MB Quart QS216
Rear Speakers (door): MB Quart Zc1-216
Subwoofer: 11TSL72 (loaded Kicker L7 truck box)
Amplifier: Alpine PDX-V9 (5 channel digital amplifier 100x4 + 500x1 at 4ohms)
Audio Control DQ-61 (6 channel line output converter, digital sound processor with signal delay and 7 band EQ per channel)
Install Accessories:
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car sound dampening material
NVX 100ft. 16 guage oxygen free speaker wire (speakers)
NVX 20ft. 12 gauge oxygen free speaker wire (sub)
Notes about the install:
-Mazda wiring diagrams were instrumental for the install. I tapped into the speaker wires located at the bottom of the B pillars to use as high-level inputs for the Audio Control line output converter. I used these because they were easier and more accessible than trying to tap into the wires at the back of the head unit. Furthermore, I am powering the 3.5" Polk dash speakers with the factory head unit. By tapping into the rear speakers for high level inputs, I can now control the dash speaker volume in relation to the amped speakers by adjusting the fade control on the head unit. I did, however, tap into one wire behind the head unit for an amp turn-on lead. There is a grey/red stripe wire that is "hot in run" that is used to turn the Audio Control processor on. The processor has an "out" that then turns the Alpine amp on.
-The MB Quart Speakers are simply incredible, especially the Q Series up front. I have had all sorts of speakers in the past (MB Quart premium and Q series (back when they were a German company), Focal, Alpine Type R, Infinity Kappa Perfect, Diamond, Rockford, etc. These MB Quart Q's (and even the Z line in the rear) are amazing speakers, better than any I've had before. However, they are extremely bright, even for my taste and I like highs. The good thing is that the crossovers on both sets have adjustments for the tweeter, and the Q Series crossovers have an adjustment for the mids as well. One caveat, the Q Series crossovers are enormous. In fact, they are obnoxiously large. I can't imagine any door being able to accommodate such a large crossover; as you may have noticed from the pictures, I was forced to mount mine under the driver seat. You may hear from some "purists" that MB Quart is not what it used to be since it was acquired by another company. While there is no way of knowing what the company would look or sound like if it was never acquired, to write it off for the simple fact of being acquired is, in my opinion, deeply misguided. The finish and quality of the speakers are beyond dispute, and they sound crisp, clean, and accurate. Also, if you are patient and find the right seller they are very affordable. I bought my set for $190. They easily rival the Focal Polyglass components I bought for $450+. I don't care who owns the company, if they continue to sound as good as they do now, I will continue to be a loyal customer.
-One of the more challenging parts of the install was finding a way to get the wires through the door jam for the front Q Series mid and tweet. The factory grommet is typical of new cars in that there is no way to fish wires through them. The factory wires from the door are channeled through the grommet but end at a connector once they reach the cabin of the vehicle. So I had to remove the door from its hinges, set it upon some jack stands, drill a hole in the door as well as the car and route the wires accordingly. This is so because I was unable to mount the crossovers onto the door. If I had been able to, then I could have tapped into the factory wiring. This may have been a more tidy way to go (although you really don't notice my wiring unless looking for it) but the downside is that utilizing the factory wiring is not the best way to get the most clarity and output from the speakers. At least by running my own wires I was able to use some good quality NVX 16 gauge oxygen free wiring, resulting in overall better sound quality.
-I am a huge fan of Kicker subs. I wanted a sub that would be clean, handle considerable power, but take up a relatively small footprint and be easily removable for trips to Costco. The 10" L7 truck box by Kicker was the perfect product for the job. It is LOUD, but also clean, and can be tamed through the use of the Audio Control subwoofer output control that I mounted on the dash. I could not be happier with the performance.
http://s350.photobucket.com/user/TRayWalls/library/2016 Mazda CX-5 Stereo Installation
Below is a list of (most) of the products that I used in the install.
Products:
Front Speakers (dash): Polk db351
Front Speakers (door): MB Quart QS216
Rear Speakers (door): MB Quart Zc1-216
Subwoofer: 11TSL72 (loaded Kicker L7 truck box)
Amplifier: Alpine PDX-V9 (5 channel digital amplifier 100x4 + 500x1 at 4ohms)
Audio Control DQ-61 (6 channel line output converter, digital sound processor with signal delay and 7 band EQ per channel)
Install Accessories:
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
Noico 80 mil 18 sqft car sound dampening material
NVX 100ft. 16 guage oxygen free speaker wire (speakers)
NVX 20ft. 12 gauge oxygen free speaker wire (sub)
Notes about the install:
-Mazda wiring diagrams were instrumental for the install. I tapped into the speaker wires located at the bottom of the B pillars to use as high-level inputs for the Audio Control line output converter. I used these because they were easier and more accessible than trying to tap into the wires at the back of the head unit. Furthermore, I am powering the 3.5" Polk dash speakers with the factory head unit. By tapping into the rear speakers for high level inputs, I can now control the dash speaker volume in relation to the amped speakers by adjusting the fade control on the head unit. I did, however, tap into one wire behind the head unit for an amp turn-on lead. There is a grey/red stripe wire that is "hot in run" that is used to turn the Audio Control processor on. The processor has an "out" that then turns the Alpine amp on.
-The MB Quart Speakers are simply incredible, especially the Q Series up front. I have had all sorts of speakers in the past (MB Quart premium and Q series (back when they were a German company), Focal, Alpine Type R, Infinity Kappa Perfect, Diamond, Rockford, etc. These MB Quart Q's (and even the Z line in the rear) are amazing speakers, better than any I've had before. However, they are extremely bright, even for my taste and I like highs. The good thing is that the crossovers on both sets have adjustments for the tweeter, and the Q Series crossovers have an adjustment for the mids as well. One caveat, the Q Series crossovers are enormous. In fact, they are obnoxiously large. I can't imagine any door being able to accommodate such a large crossover; as you may have noticed from the pictures, I was forced to mount mine under the driver seat. You may hear from some "purists" that MB Quart is not what it used to be since it was acquired by another company. While there is no way of knowing what the company would look or sound like if it was never acquired, to write it off for the simple fact of being acquired is, in my opinion, deeply misguided. The finish and quality of the speakers are beyond dispute, and they sound crisp, clean, and accurate. Also, if you are patient and find the right seller they are very affordable. I bought my set for $190. They easily rival the Focal Polyglass components I bought for $450+. I don't care who owns the company, if they continue to sound as good as they do now, I will continue to be a loyal customer.
-One of the more challenging parts of the install was finding a way to get the wires through the door jam for the front Q Series mid and tweet. The factory grommet is typical of new cars in that there is no way to fish wires through them. The factory wires from the door are channeled through the grommet but end at a connector once they reach the cabin of the vehicle. So I had to remove the door from its hinges, set it upon some jack stands, drill a hole in the door as well as the car and route the wires accordingly. This is so because I was unable to mount the crossovers onto the door. If I had been able to, then I could have tapped into the factory wiring. This may have been a more tidy way to go (although you really don't notice my wiring unless looking for it) but the downside is that utilizing the factory wiring is not the best way to get the most clarity and output from the speakers. At least by running my own wires I was able to use some good quality NVX 16 gauge oxygen free wiring, resulting in overall better sound quality.
-I am a huge fan of Kicker subs. I wanted a sub that would be clean, handle considerable power, but take up a relatively small footprint and be easily removable for trips to Costco. The 10" L7 truck box by Kicker was the perfect product for the job. It is LOUD, but also clean, and can be tamed through the use of the Audio Control subwoofer output control that I mounted on the dash. I could not be happier with the performance.
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