2013 CX-5 GT Dead and won't jump

Got the battery load tested and it is 100% good. I'm still in the intermittent parasitic draw camp next. Is there something I should diag first?
 
Got the battery load tested and it is 100% good. I'm still in the intermittent parasitic draw camp next. Is there something I should diag first?
Alright. Too bad it's not just a battery, that's an easy fix.

[edit] ... look to others suggestions such as edmaz below as far as how to go about testing the circuits with a multi-meter ... I'm not particularly skilled at electrical troubleshooting :)

I AM NOT A MECHANIC but if I were in your shoes, I would use my multi-meter between the battery + and cable to measure the power draw (amps) with everything off in the car. Then pull individual fuses one at a time to see if I could isolate the circuit with a draw that shouldn't be there.

I dislike electrical problems. Good luck and post up what you find.
 
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… I would use my multi-meter between the battery + and cable ….
Better to use the negative side of the battery, in order to avoid an accidental short, if doing the draw test that way.

A better approach to parasitic draw testing IMO, is to do voltage drop testing at the fuses. The voltage drop method eliminates the possibility of something 'waking up' when the fuse protecting it is removed and reinserted.

And be aware (with either method) that vehicles vary in the amount of time it takes for all of the computers to shut down, with some taking as long as an hour or to be completely down. Avoid doing anything during the testing, such as opening a door, which will force another wait for shutdown.
 
Update: The dealership said to bring it in and they tested the battery and said it was faulty. They've replaced the battery.

My suspicion is the battery was good when I had it tested at the parts store, but has since gone bad from dying and being recharged about two dozen times. The dealership says their battery tester is more sophisticated than the parts store so that's why. I'm unsure of that explanation, but who knows.

I suspect after about a week, our car will be dead again, and we'll be back in the dealership. I suppose I could diag the parasitic draw now instead of waiting for the car to be dead. But there's a non-zero chance the new battery will fix the issue. Fingers crossed!
 
Update: The dealership said to bring it in and they tested the battery and said it was faulty. They've replaced the battery.

My suspicion is the battery was good when I had it tested at the parts store, but has since gone bad from dying and being recharged about two dozen times. The dealership says their battery tester is more sophisticated than the parts store so that's why. I'm unsure of that explanation, but who knows.

I suspect after about a week, our car will be dead again, and we'll be back in the dealership. I suppose I could diag the parasitic draw now instead of waiting for the car to be dead. But there's a non-zero chance the new battery will fix the issue. Fingers crossed!
Let us know what happens. I know how you feel, but it sure sounded like a battery.
 
It was that battery. I think more likely the initial "It's good" test was wrong.
 
Did you connect your jumper cable in proper sequence? Did you connect the jumper cable to the ground point away from the dead battery for sequence #4 in step #4? And did you check the jumper cable which is in good condition and rated 8 gauge or thicker for higher current? Can you tell how old the battery is?

You can take the battery to AutoZone or other auto parts store to test the condition of the battery mentioned above. If everything tested fine then you can start to suspect the starter problem which would look like the symptom when you did the jump-start but this should be rare.

Most likely you need a new battery. Go get a Group 35 Interstate battery for $79 at Costco.
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I actually placed # stickers in the engine bay because I can never remember the correct order. Step #4 is the most important. You have to connect to a ground with no painted surfaces otherwise the battery WILL not jump start.
 
I actually placed # stickers in the engine bay because I can never remember the correct order. Step #4 is the most important. You have to connect to a ground with no painted surfaces otherwise the battery WILL not jump start.
I’d say you’ll have more chances of not be able to jump start due to bad connection somewhere on negative battery cable. Safety is the main reason by doing that way avoiding any possible explosion. This is applicable to all jump start with any type of the batteries, although most jump cables come with those small lithium jump start batteries are too short to make connection to the bare metal.
 
#1 reason a battery won't jump start is because it is totally dead. Utterly dead. THis just happened to me. Battery, brand new in my wifes car, completely drained.
 
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Did your car stay working? The reason I ask is that I have a 2013 cx 5 and seem to have a similar issue. Every month to 2 months, since like May, my car dies. I've been to the dealership 4 or 5 times and everytime I bring it, they do all their battery and draw tests and they don't find any issues. Battery has been replaced twice at this point. I brought it to them last week and it's dead again already.
 
So far it is still working. I had read about the situation you're in and that's what I was worried about at first. It has only been a few weeks, so it seems to be fine for now, but just like what is happening with you, part of me suspects this is going to become an issue again in 2-6 more weeks.

I don't know enough about these cars to give you any advice, but I can share with you that the next thing I plan on doing, if the battery dies again, is to do several parasitic draw tests.

Please update this thread with any new info you come into/if the dealership ends up helping outside of replacing the battery. I hope something works our for you!
 
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