Problem solved but first let me clarify what exactly was feeling like after my muscle memory was adjusted - the top of the pedal was very soft; the clutch grabbing point wasn't really that low to the floor as I stated first. It was actually somewhat inconsistent - sometimes low but sometimes very high; the effective travel of the clutch action was very short, meaning I had to go really slow otherwise the shifting was jerky and I could sense it in the engine noise and vibration.
What was done:
I flushed the brake fluid, replaced master and slave (service manual calls it release) cylinders and pedal is now better than it was before the failure. Smooth shifting. It wasn't as hard as I thought - 3.5 hrs total, with a few delays. If I have to do it again - probably 1 hr.
Some tips:
- The main hiccup I got was a o-ring that normally sits at the end of the slave cylinder hose was stuck inside the old slave cylinder when I pulled it out. I did not notice it, installed, started bleeding and brake fluid leaked all over the place sending me in panic mode that the new part is defective. I carefully pulled out the tiny o-ring, installed on the the hose end and back in business. If you are doing this job, it may be wise to order these o-rings - I think there is one at the master attach point as well.
- I did not have to remove air handler - just the battery box. But I do have small hands. The slave is very easy to remove from the bottom but if you do have small hands removing it from top is possible
- The slave bleeder is not a bolt style but a plastic twist lock - as you are on top of it installed, turn counter clockwise to open (it turns 180 degrees) and clockwise to close. It makes a nice click at the ends.
- I kind of like how Mazda did these parts. It's all plastics so I don't think the concern about the slave cylinder rusting was valid (it has a nice boot too). Very easy to replace - just snap together. Lasting 100k miles is decent.
- I think it was the master that was bad as the old one clearly had more play than the new one. I did replace the slave as it was only $45 and it was making squeaky noisy since 20k miles. On top of that, I accidentally squirted fluid from the old all over my wife who was at least 10ft away. So watch out for that too.
- The brake fluid at 100k miles and 8.5 years of Midwest climate wasn't looking terrible. Whoever says replace it every 2-3 years/30000 miles is either up selling you or it is climate/care dependent. I will be replacing every 5 years on my future cars as it is a easy and cheap job.
- I couldn't find these parts from 3rd party stores and no dealer had them in stock. I first ordered from one of the many 'mazda-parts-something' online stores but the lead times was like 2-3 weeks (they said Mazda warehouse ships to them first, then they ship to me). Don't waste your time with them. Got it thru the local dealer in 5 days and it was only $12 more than what the online prices were (after 15% coupon).
What was done:
I flushed the brake fluid, replaced master and slave (service manual calls it release) cylinders and pedal is now better than it was before the failure. Smooth shifting. It wasn't as hard as I thought - 3.5 hrs total, with a few delays. If I have to do it again - probably 1 hr.
Some tips:
- The main hiccup I got was a o-ring that normally sits at the end of the slave cylinder hose was stuck inside the old slave cylinder when I pulled it out. I did not notice it, installed, started bleeding and brake fluid leaked all over the place sending me in panic mode that the new part is defective. I carefully pulled out the tiny o-ring, installed on the the hose end and back in business. If you are doing this job, it may be wise to order these o-rings - I think there is one at the master attach point as well.
- I did not have to remove air handler - just the battery box. But I do have small hands. The slave is very easy to remove from the bottom but if you do have small hands removing it from top is possible
- The slave bleeder is not a bolt style but a plastic twist lock - as you are on top of it installed, turn counter clockwise to open (it turns 180 degrees) and clockwise to close. It makes a nice click at the ends.
- I kind of like how Mazda did these parts. It's all plastics so I don't think the concern about the slave cylinder rusting was valid (it has a nice boot too). Very easy to replace - just snap together. Lasting 100k miles is decent.
- I think it was the master that was bad as the old one clearly had more play than the new one. I did replace the slave as it was only $45 and it was making squeaky noisy since 20k miles. On top of that, I accidentally squirted fluid from the old all over my wife who was at least 10ft away. So watch out for that too.
- The brake fluid at 100k miles and 8.5 years of Midwest climate wasn't looking terrible. Whoever says replace it every 2-3 years/30000 miles is either up selling you or it is climate/care dependent. I will be replacing every 5 years on my future cars as it is a easy and cheap job.
- I couldn't find these parts from 3rd party stores and no dealer had them in stock. I first ordered from one of the many 'mazda-parts-something' online stores but the lead times was like 2-3 weeks (they said Mazda warehouse ships to them first, then they ship to me). Don't waste your time with them. Got it thru the local dealer in 5 days and it was only $12 more than what the online prices were (after 15% coupon).