2012 Mazda5 Questions

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Mazda 5
Just now joined the community, got a couple of issues with my 5 I need help with! ^_^

First - recently changed rear brake pads and turned the rotors with father-in-law (he owns a used tire and repair shop), noticed some rattling from the rear wheels. Checked it, we put the pads on the wrong side of the rotors (lol) so we swapped the to proper sides but theres still some rattling but not as bad. I know we put everything back together right and tight. Not sure why it still has some rattle. The rotors are old and was a little warped, they won't be able to be surfaced again so I know it'll need new ones eventually.
Could it be the rotors are too thin now?

Second - Pulling out of the drive today, I gave it a little more pedal than normal (little argument with the wife this morning -_-) and had some wheel spin. It wasn't much but the traction control, abs and brake dash lights came on and haven't turned off even after turning the car off and sitting a couple hours. I've spun the tires like that a few times, with the TCS on and off, in the year I've owned it and haven't had this problem. The only difference this time is that the wheels were cut most of the way to the left to start down the road after backing out of the driveway and the car was fully in gear before I applied throttle. Like I said, it wasn't much more gas than usual buuuuut being the second 5 I've owned (first one was an '07) I know how notorious the 1st gear is for for spinning tires with very little throttle lol.

Any info or advice is greatly appreciated!
 
Rotors have a minimum thickness stamped somewhere, you'd have to find the stamp and measure to be sure. I would just replace them, rear rotors are especially inexpensive. Have you checked your rear shock mounts for the rattle?
 
It's within the markers, but another surfacing would put it too close to use. I was ready to replace them, just turned them to see if they'd still be ok and they were, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are useable but thin enough to cause the rattle. The shock mounts was what I checked first and seemed ok. Had a mount break on the '07 I had so I know what its like (caused by rust, it was bought in Vermont) but I'll check again to make sure. New rotors are about $30 each so I'll line that up soon.
 
The rear caliper pistons on these Mazda’s are compressed and turned to make space for the new pads. Once you finish your brake job you need to pump the hand brake multiple times to work the piston back out to the correct position. Usually 10-15 times until it feels snug. If you haven’t done that, and you haven’t used the hand brake enough since the brake job to reset them incidentally then they’re returning to their idle position too far from the rotor and they’ll rattle.
 
The rear caliper pistons on these Mazda’s are compressed and turned to make space for the new pads. Once you finish your brake job you need to pump the hand brake multiple times to work the piston back out to the correct position. Usually 10-15 times until it feels snug. If you haven’t done that, and you haven’t used the hand brake enough since the brake job to reset them incidentally then they’re returning to their idle position too far from the rotor and they’ll rattle.
Thanks for the info! I did pump the handbrake 4 or 5 times after installation and I did another 4-5 times after reading your comment. Took some of the rattle out but still a little bit of rattle, I'll give it another 5-10 pumps to make sure!
 
UPDATE! The 3 dash lights SOLVED! Paid off the 5 a little while ago (Yaaaay! 😆) and when they cut out the GPS tracker the lights went away. Turned out it was throwing the invalid code because it was wired into the OBD so it'd be always hot. Big sigh of relief there, now I'll have to pump the handbrake some more to see if that'll get the brake rattle out.
 
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