0W20 for 2020 CX-5 GTR?

Eric

2020 CX-5 GTR
Hi there. I just got first oil change for my 2020 CX-5 GTR at the dealer today. I noticed that they use 0W20 instead of 5W30 (according to the owner manual).

Would it be ok for that?
 
I'm a noob to UOA reports. Looks like $30 for a report from Blackstone as an example. Curious what one might say about the engine itself (absent obvious things like metal particles). Thanks!
We don’t have to be a specialist to understand the UOA report fully. The lab will explain the report in detail if anything usual worth to be mentioned, such as high potassium level which could mean coolant leak problem.
 
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An update: Yesterday I got the car up on ramps and changed the oil to Castrol Edge 5w30. I did not replace the 1WPY-14-302 filter as it's still new. I did install a Fumoto F106N oil drain valve ($23 on Amazon) and picked up 10 feet of drain hose at Home Depot for $3+, so next time the change will go fast and easy. I noted that the access panel was missing one of its two screws (again, thanks Mr. Dealer! who just changed the oil 2 weeks ago) so I will get a replacement. Meanwhile, regarding the other two fastening points: Those stupid plastic push fasteners are not easy to re-insert, are they? In the many cars I've maintained, I've never seen these used on a frequently removed panel. (On other hand, it was 22 deg. here in Chicago area yesterday, so my fingers were a bit numb.) Kudos to Mazda for a very easily accessible drain plug and filter.
 
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An update: Yesterday I got the car up on ramps and changed the oil to Castrol Edge 5w30. I did not replace the 1WPY-14-302 filter as it's still new. I did install a Fumoto F106N oil drain valve ($23 on Amazon) and picked up 10 feet of drain hose at Home Depot for $3+, so next time the change will go fast and easy. I noted that the access panel was missing one of its two screws (again, thanks Mr. Dealer! who just changed the oil 2 weeks ago) so I will get a replacement. Meanwhile, regarding the other two fastening points: Those stupid plastic push fasteners are not easy to re-insert, are they? In the many cars I've maintained, I've never seen these used on a frequently removed panel. (On other hand, it was 22 deg. here in Chicago area yesterday, so my fingers were a bit numb.) Kudos to Mazda for a very easily accessible drain plug and filter.
Since the oil filter is installed vertically on the SkyActiv engines, you’ll have about 0.3 ~ 0.4 quart of oil in there and can’t be drained out. If I’m going through the hassle to change oil with correct 5W-30 viscosity, I’d replace the old oil filter with a new one. At least I’d remove the oil filter, dump the old oil out, then re-install it if I want to save the “new” oil filter installed by the Mazda dealer.

IMO, if I’m going through the hassle DIY changing the oil, I won’t install the Fumoto valve just to save 30 seconds removing the drain plug. Remember with Fumoto valve you can’t drain the old oil more completely because it’s extended into the oil pan. It drains slower along with sticking valve which could prevent some metal shavings or debris if any draining out with old oil. Someone here had removed the oil pan from his CX-5 and found unexpected amount of oil stayed inside of the pan with Fumoto valve.

Forgot there’re 2 screws and 1 fastener or 1 screw and 2 fasteners, either way those are frequently been missing if you let somebody else doing the oil change on CX-5. What’s interesting to me is when I did the oil change the first time on my 2018 Toyota Yaris iA (a Mazda2 in disguise) a couple of weeks ago, I found the access panel for oil change is designed in much better way than the CX-5’s. One screw and very easy to remove and put on. With only one screw, the tech changing the oil won’t forget to put it on, or the access panel will fall off.

Yes; I still remember in the old days changing oil at below freezing temperature in the parking lot. Definitely it isn’t fun ⋯
 
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Mine seems to stay with just the two screws, which are less aggravating than the push pins.

The panel is a little warped for some reason.
 
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I've never had a problem re-installing the push pins. Just make sure the push part is out so the bottom of it can contract. I modified a screwdriver such that it goes under the push pin easy and makes them really fast to remove. It doesn't look like much of a mod but it really makes a big difference. I had a push pin as I bent and grinded it to test as I went along.

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