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Second that. Aftermarket never seem to wipe correctly the upper part of the curved back glass. Switching back to the OEM one fixed that. Also learned the hard way to be gentle with the whole arm while swapping it.

That's a bit more spilled grease on the boot than I had on mine. Once you remove the old clamp, make sure there's still some inside trying to escape ;-) I've used this cheap kit successfully on my second attempt. 1st one, I cut the strap too short to fold it correctly...

Not sure about what grease I would add in those inner boots. Did yours had time to leak a lot? I had the issue on driver side last spring and believe I caught it soon enough that just a small part of the grease leaked. So, I just removed the old clamp, cleaned things up and put a new clamp.

Suggestion I got for you if the problem gets back: Clean the Throttle butterfly with a toothbrush and carb cleaner. I had weird idle issues too on my 2015 around 70kmiles. Near stalls while stopping on red lights. Unstable idle when the AC compressor cycles.. Cleaning, then relearning idle...

Last time I checked, Mazda 5 2012-2018 still wasn't on the list for any ABS services procedures. A lot of other features to make it useful though. Just too scared to play with AsBuilt programming.

I'm not surprised they won't approve any other fluid but their own. It's all about trial and error on your car and I'm with you: not willing to gamble on a 3k$ transmission. Their M5 fluid is not that costly to replace more often.

Have something similar happening sometimes. Usual trigger is moving my car in the street then shutting it off immediately. Next start a few hours later will be difficult. Even managed to flood it last time it happened. Starter is usuallu reacting as expected, few misfires heard on 1st attempt...

I had the exact same issue in summer 2020. Car did not move enough during lockdown and it was the Evap solenoid near fuel tank that seized with rust. It would move a tiny bit, but never fully closed like it should. You'd be able to blow through it while it was supposed to be sealed. Trick I've...

I'm a bit worried about forcing those too. Didn't break any yet, but as soon as I feel sliding door is resisting opening, I stop and open/push from inside via the front doors instead.

In my case, I just got p0445 (gross or large leak). Same part was completely stuck open. Some WD40 and hitting with a hammer got it moving normally. Code returned as p0442. Indeed, just like some of you, I was able to blow slightly trough it. I was lucky enough to score an already replaced one...

I've bough a eBay case to replace mine... (I've broken the battery holder tabs on the OEM) Writings are already wearing off after 2 months. Don't expect too much from the chinese replacement case ;-)

Sorry, never came back to it as it is still Work In Progress. Not enough time and the second car took too much of my time lately. Current status is that door harnesses has everything needed from factory. I needed to add 2 wires from the doors to the main harness that comes in from the firewall...

I would 1st check for obvious things: -PS Fluid still at the right level in the tank (Could have cracked or leaked from a broken connection)? -Does the pump turns while someone works the steering wheel? I don't know for sure for previous years, but '12 and up got their pump located not that far...

Yeah, they managed to close that loophole :( But some people have managed to grab a copy of the '12 and '13 MY and sell them cheap (about 10$) on Ebay... just sayin' ;-) Older MY might also be sold the same way.

Yes, from the firewall, behind the glovebox Switched +12V, taken from the schematics, and confirmed by probing the fuse. Defrost relay is feeding for the mirrors too. All that is missing is 2 wires to feed from the firewall connector, to both doors connectors. I'm at the same stage... just...

I guess you probably tried asking at the "stealership"... I'm about to get one really cheap for exactly that reason: it's missing all 4 rubber pads. I was think of cutting then out of a used tire, but I don't plan to use that rack permanently attached to the car like most tend to do. My other...

I suggest you have a thorough look under the dash, passenger side (behind glovebox). A mirror and a good flashlight might be enough to see from both sides of this connector. On mine I can find Mirror Defrost +12V LG (Light Green) wire coming from the firewall, but it stops there. Nothing is...

Doesn't seem to be the case anymore since YM '12 :-( Engine harness + door harness seem to contains most options, but even with careful digging with the schematics and a DVM, I can't find the heating mirror +12V in what's called the "Rear Harness" (Inside the car).

I'm making slight progress here: I was able to trace Light Green wire up to C-04 Connector inside, under the dash. But was unable to get a clear image of what's between C-04 -> C-29 using a snake lighted camera. I also got the Light Green/ Black wire inside the doors. I just hope they haven't...