Brace yourself

Chris, that part that holds everything strong, is that perforated metal piece. That, should extend into the newly welded part. Than it will be safe.
JB, why you guys are not making these?
I made my own lateral links adjustable and trying to adjust the eccentric bolt with it, to adjust camber.
I don't know the outcome, of how many degrees I can adjust, but I'm willing to gamble here and find out. Even if I can reduce it only 1 degree, it's still better, then just leaving it this way.
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • 20150128_171758.jpg
    20150128_171758.jpg
    123.9 KB · Views: 602
I put the jbr arm to the cx 5 arm (hung it on the part of the bolt sticking out). The result was 40mm, from the end of the arm to the top of the locking nut. I'm not sure what (which point on the arm) maz was referring to when he said it was extended 35mm, because from the end 35mm seems way to long. As is there is less than 1" of thread when matched. Maybe a 1" extension would be more appropiate. In the pic the bottom arm represents the oem reach. I'll have to find my alignment.
LJvtLTr.jpg
fhMSyJw.jpg
 
Last edited:
He could strain gage it, then put it in a load frame and test it 'real world'. I did stress testing for a living years ago before computers were widely available.

Strain gauge. Been a while since I heard that. Effectively, glue a piece of looped wire to the object and test resistance. Fun stuff
 
KRv8MWM.jpg
looks like I only need like 1 or 1.5" of additional length to fix rear camber (and once the coils are on i'm looking at different #'s anyhow), and the bolt should still be able to go into the bar
 
The amount of inches is not equal to the number in degrees. Also, just because an angle is within factory specs doesn't mean tires won't wear unevenly. Keep in mind, manufacturers want handling numbers, they don't care much if you get 100% life of your tread. From my experience, I saw no tire wear from angles of 1 or less on camber and numbers closest to 0 in toe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The amount of inches is not equal to the number in degrees. Also, just because an angle is within factory specs doesn't mean tires won't wear unevenly. Keep in mind, manufacturers want handling numbers, they don't care much if you get 100% life of your tread. From my experience, I saw no tire wear from angles of 1 or less on camber and numbers closest to 0 in toe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well , I would like to have my rears to be more precise and less random, maybe -1. It's possible the mz6 arm may work as is, since adding - camber would mean make it shorter (more threads inside). I'll have to see what kind of rough camber # I get after I install the bc coilover at a height I want. I bought one of those camber gauge.
 
-1 would be great to have from a tire wear aspect. How that affects the way you drive may be a different matter. High performance and race have excessive negative camber & toe for better cornering at the expense of tire life. Another aspect many alignment "technicians" don't consider is the alignment readings with the weight of people and luggage in the car. Whenever I did a custom alignment for a race car or a picky customer I would have him in the car along with a full tank of gas while doing an alignment. On most cars, the left cambers will get more positive while the right cambers got more negative with the weight . German and Italian manufacturers recommend sand bag weights when doing their alignments.
 
Last edited:
Yea I did a lot to my car, including prototyping an axle back turbo kit.
 
My own lateral links still work great. Some were trying to talk me out of them. See top of this page.
Mazstyle nice to see you back here.
I'm in the same boat as you, I will sell it soon and most likely, I will get an Alfa Stelvio.
I will have to lower that too, it sits way to high.
For a GT, or Signature price I can have a 280hp/306trq, 0-60=5.4 sec SUV, with a unique look.
 
I love the Alfa's (though, personally, I would get the Giulia) but the reliability is just not there. If I were to get one - and I've thought long and hard about doing so - I'd probably lease it for that reason (then buy it out at the end if I got a 'good' one).

On the other hand, I'm also very pleased with what Mazda has done with the Gen2's - our new one is SO much better feeling than our Gen1.
 
Red, how do you know about the reliability? I can't find much info about these cars. I'm scared a bit too, but most of the info that I have read, doesn't seem to bad. I know, back in the day..., but I mean now, how they are?
Even Acura RDX is pretty bad, which is a Honda product. Imho every car has issues these days.
I like the Giulia better and it is slightly cheaper, I may get more for my money, but I have a bad back, I have a house, and I need to carry sometime bigger things, so the SUV makes more sense to me.
 
I think reliability is sub-par, but from what I've read, maybe mainly minor things or electrical issues that come and go away. Like I said you could luck out with a good car and have no issues aat all - which is why I would hedge my bets with a lease.

But, if you do want to carry stuff, you should check them out in person. The cargo area is smaller than average.
 
Quick heads up, please keep threads on topic, thanks!

Ps...Feel free to continue your conversation via PM or you can start an "Off Topic" thread in our Lounge.
 
Back