Recent content by Thaumaturge

Check that the "cross" on the caliper piston is aligned to allow the pin on the pad to fit in the recess. If not, this will tip the pads and cause the uneven wear. Don't ask me how I know this. :rolleyes:

Have LX25s and am happy. Had LX20s before they came out with new version and think they were ever so slightly quieter but 25s have stiffer sidewalls and handle a little better IMHO. Still not performance tires, but the grip in the wet and smow is great and worth the compromises.

Drain and fill at 50k.

At around 100k, experienced the dreaded torque converter judder / shudder mostly after shifts on hills or above 3rd gear. Put in a little tube of Lubegard Instant Shudder Fixx and that did in fact fix it, but of course, that's only a temporary fix. Went to stealer to have them read the tranny...

Thanks so much for your comments as they are exactly what I was looking for - a gen1 to gen2 comparison from an owner with experience. BTW, I also used to own a 7 Series Big Money Waster, and definitely miss the seats (but little else) in that car. My cons for the 2008 were: - The seats...

So an idiot kid driving on a suspended license passed me on the shoulder in a fit of road rage in heavy traffic and then wound up hitting me and totalling my beloved 2008 CX9 with less than 90k on it.(drive)(pissed) Thankfully only minor injuries were sustained after spinning nose first into...

Hard to say if you're right looking from below, but see here: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123864057-2008-CX-9-Oil-Pressure-Switch&highlight=oil+pressure+switch

FYI, I provided a picture of the leak location around the VVT solenoid at the end of step #56 in the instructions found here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yjma0fz8erwwot0/AABFWhv7jUDn-E1Fl669LHUja?dl=0&preview=Mazda+2008+CX9+Water+Pump.pdf The yellow is the fluorescent dye I used to spot the leak.

So sorry to hear this. I will let others chime in on the potential differences between engines though I don't think there are any material ones. The emissions package should be external combined with system programming. I am not aware of anyone using a Ford but also can't see why it wouldn't...

When I did this job in my garage (without a guide) it was the first time I had ever disassembled that much of an engine, so this job is far from out of reach for most DIY'ers. It requires no special tools or knowledge. BTW, the "John Can Fix Anything" video made it look harder than it was...

No disrespect intended, but I'm shocked after reading your post and seeing that you paid $4500 to a stealer for the work. Good for you that it's done, but wow they sure saw you coming! I'm hopeful that anyone reading this realizes that you just paid what many would consider one of the highest...

Happy to fix but which link? They all seem to work for me.

Hard to say with 100% certainty from video since road noise and tires are involved, but that sounds like a wheel bearing howl for sure. Bad bearings don't always show play in wheel so that test is not definitive. Spin each wheel when in the air and see if one or another is rougher. OTOH it...

If it were the 6 cyl I would say it was 90% VVT actuator problem. Can't be sure with the turbo 4 as I have no experience with that engine.

1. New brake pads or new rotors and pads? If only pads, get under the car and check out inside surface of rotors as they may be pitted before the outsides show anything. (I had this happen) 2. It's entirely possible the new bearing or hub is bad. Of course the bearing sound will be more of...