Recent content by MarioT

Probably not much will happen, but I can think that: -Oil filter & pan will be more exposed to road debris. -Water splashing on the belt could make it squeal. -If up north enough, snow & ice build up in weird places. I wouldn't pay for a brand new one... but if you can get your hands on a...

I will make a new attempt at this in the next few weeks (too much stuff to deal with now). Some pics will be shared, but I'll make sure to try this idea before getting the grinder to them.

Oh, getting the end cable free from the rotating mechanism isn't the issue at all. Mostly 10 years of Canadian rust is what's keeping the cable "sleeve" frozen solid into the caliper. I'd rather destroy the caliper cores than risk needing parking cable replacements from the front.

I was about to ask exactly the same thing. So physically destroying them is the only way :( Good thing I purchased new ones, so no core return required.

Did you already check for rodent/squirrel damage in the fill tube vent system?

Got the same plan lined up for this spring. Sucking from the reserve only allows replacing 1 or 2 oz. Also will not circulate well enough with the old fluid anyway in case we'd attempt multiple small replacements. Scrap yard test showed me that disconnecting the low pressure line in the...

Ever considered going Junkyard hunting for those? I tend to drop misc fasteners in my toolbox whenever I go to U-Pull-It type junkyards while I removing other required parts.

IIRC, Laser Iridium also has a platinum "pad" on the ground electrode for longer lifespan. IX only has the Iridium tip & std nickel ground.

I'd like others to confirm what they saw too, but from memory, when I changed them at 65kmiles they still looked brand new. I think the only thing I noticed between the original ones and my NGK replacements was the FOMOCO branding. I used the same exact NGK LTR5BI13 from Rockauto. Maybe the...

If you had 2 original keys, there's a procedure to follow to program a 3rd key. With only 1, you need an OBD2 Adapter & FORSCAN to program the chipped keys in the antitheft system. You can purchase used Mazda 5 keys from a scrapyard and the remote part can be programmed for the doors, plus I...

Second that. Aftermarket never seem to wipe correctly the upper part of the curved back glass. Switching back to the OEM one fixed that. Also learned the hard way to be gentle with the whole arm while swapping it.

That's a bit more spilled grease on the boot than I had on mine. Once you remove the old clamp, make sure there's still some inside trying to escape ;-) I've used this cheap kit successfully on my second attempt. 1st one, I cut the strap too short to fold it correctly...

Not sure about what grease I would add in those inner boots. Did yours had time to leak a lot? I had the issue on driver side last spring and believe I caught it soon enough that just a small part of the grease leaked. So, I just removed the old clamp, cleaned things up and put a new clamp.

Suggestion I got for you if the problem gets back: Clean the Throttle butterfly with a toothbrush and carb cleaner. I had weird idle issues too on my 2015 around 70kmiles. Near stalls while stopping on red lights. Unstable idle when the AC compressor cycles.. Cleaning, then relearning idle...

Last time I checked, Mazda 5 2012-2018 still wasn't on the list for any ABS services procedures. A lot of other features to make it useful though. Just too scared to play with AsBuilt programming.