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- MSP 1145
Yeah pcb...but you are...err...YOU!!I dunno dudes..???
He might have that car totaled within a week.
I was 18 once too.
That's what I did. Lol
18yr old driver here, haven't totaled my P5 yet, even though I've had my fair share of close calls (the most recent one being taking an on ramp at 80mph and slowly sliding towards the guardrail until the tail of the car kicked out and I caught it. Needless to say, that was one of those moments where your pants just magically turn brown ).I dunno dudes..???
He might have that car totaled within a week.
I was 18 once too.
That's what I did. Lol
-This is embarrassing...oh well what the hell.18yr old driver here, haven't totaled my P5 yet, even though I've had my fair share of close calls (the most recent one being taking an on ramp at 80mph and slowly sliding towards the guardrail until the tail of the car kicked out and I caught it. Needless to say, that was one of those moments where your pants just magically turn brown ).
Hi PCB,
I saw one of your threads (linked below) and I've been researching the internet and here trying to fix those CEL codes and they've both seem to come on in tandem (sometimes with others now and then) since I swapped cars with my son's P5.
Any help with diagnosis? P2009 and P0090 on my 03
I'm hoping for some guidance on where to go from here. I've got 147k on my 03 Protg5, and a month or two ago I started getting these same 2 codes. Always both, never one at a time. P2009 is Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit and P0090 is Intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low Bank 1...www.mazdas247.com
I pulled the power input connectors or the VTCS, VICS, and the Purge Solenoid (brown connector) and all three get battery voltage when I turn the ignition on.
I don't get "clicks" from any of them when I connect the solenoid contacts to battery voltage. Should they all at least click when hot-wired?
I clear them but then they just keep coming back.
I did look at their vacuum lines for cracks (but don't have a vacuum tool) and manually operated and shot some lithium grease on that vacuum operated intake runner rod and that seemed to make the car accelerate smoother.
I may go out and buy a fuel pressure regulator valve for the P5 "just because" and I'm now more confident that's still a problem on my wife's Civic as you said in the other link or somewhere else (paraphrased) that a bad PRV will make a car stall because it "needs more fuel when its warmed up".
On both cars I still need to do fuel pressure test before wrestling with fuel pumps...
Yes they should click, at least mine did.
You can also put a finger on it to see if you feel anything.
One final test is to put a piece of vacuum tube to it and blow through it to see if the flow turns on and off.
Here's the tests for all the solenoids...
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They are all the same solenoids...
The first diagram is wrong, and shows the electrical connector being perpendicular to the solenoid, but it's not.
They are listed all kinda confusing at Rockauto.
This is all you need...
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There are others available but they are way more expensive.
The only difference between them, that I know of, is that the one vacuum connection is metal, and they may be a better quality solenoid.
The cheaper one has all the connections made of plastic.
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The only thing that I'm not positive about is if the electrical plugs are all the same. (I know that the VICS and VTCS are exactly the same.)
If that is a problem, you can remove the metal connectors from the plastic plug then plug the wires directly onto the new solenoid.
This is one of the solenoids from my parts car. (I don't know which one. Lol)
There is a little plastic air filter that you can remove and plug back onto the appropriate outlet.
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You use a dental pick to push a tab to release the metal connector from the plug.
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The purge control solenoid valve is different, and it's expensive.
It has gas vapor running through it so it needs to be built safer.
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" I may go out and buy a fuel pressure regulator valve for the P5 "just because"
You should throw a new solenoid valve on it first. They are 20 years old and eventually crap out.
You may be able to fix the problem without having to do a fuel pressure test.
Almost all of us have had to replace one or more of those valves.
Since we're on this topic....18yr old driver here, haven't totaled my P5 yet, even though I've had my fair share of close calls (the most recent one being taking an on ramp at 80mph and slowly sliding towards the guardrail until the tail of the car kicked out and I caught it. Needless to say, that was one of those moments where your pants just magically turn brown ).
I've considered doing this but I want to make it pressure sensitive somehow. The idea is, if you press the brake lightly in a turn, it won't flash, but if you press the brake hard it'll flash. I hate the idea of the thing just constantly flashing for any braking. I'm just not sure how to accomplish that.added 3rd brake light flasher.....4 blinks then solid
Oh god... It's a sign that I've had this car too long that I don't even remember when I replaced two or maybe all three of those solenoids.tj4fa2003P5 sent me a question, and I thought I would post it here.
I put one of those brake light flashers on my Miata. There's nothing quite like driving a tiny car that's the color of asphalt when you're surrounded by SUVs. I've already been side-swiped in my P5 by someone who didn't see me. What chance do I have in a Miata?added 3rd brake light flasher.....4 blinks then solid
2nd thing I replaced on my son's recent used P5 purchase.I bought some of those famous Kia bushings (and a not-so-famous Kia nut and bolt) and installed them today. Holy crap, the shift is good now. The orange, non-serviceable bushings were completely gone and the slop was real. Had to use a hacksaw and a drill as shown in the YouTube video.
Looks good and easier to do if you have to do it again down the road a hundred-thousand miles from now.
The only code I've been popping recently is an P0421 Catalytic Converter Code but probably from me spray painting everything on the underside of the body (including the outside of the Catalytic Converter - that one with high temp paint).