Transmission issues (Loss of power)?

Recently, I had my timing cover gasket replaced under warranty for my 2018 CX-5 Grand touring. I had to have this done twice because the first time after I got it back, it sprayed oil all under the engine compartment and leaked again.The second time Mazda corporate got involved with my Mazda dealer and it seems that they have resolved the issue *knock on wood* and also replaced the hydraulic lifters. Having had a loaner now for a total of three weeks over the span of the two fixes, I noticed that the 2020 model that I was driving around was far more powerful and would stay around 2,000 RPMs going up a hill and still gain some speed or at least stay the same speed without having to downshift. My 2018 model has to downshift on even the slightest hill. It almost feels as if the car has less compression or that something is preventing it from riding smoothly.it seems when I go down the hill with the one I own comparative to the 2020 dealership model, mine stays the same speed or loses speed whereas the dealership cx-5 gains speed. I don't know where to start if it's a transmission issue or brakes rubbing. I don't smell anything or see anything that looks out of place as far as the brakes are concerned. Where should I start with this issue? Has anybody else had this kind of issue? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Drive train warranty is still in effect so take it to the dealer and have them check it out completely, including you and tech test driving it so you can explain to him what the problem is.

If the vehicle is slowing when descending a hill then it might be engine braking which I rarely ever notice (although there's not a lot of big hills in my area). When you notice the slowing does the rpm's jump up? That's usually indicitative of engine braking as opposed to maybe a hung caliper or shoe rubbing and causing resistance.

Another thing - - did your vehicle have the CD recall applied?
 
Was this lack of power problem (also a better thread title) happening before the repairs were done, after, or both?

Did they tell you why the lifters were replaced, and/or was the reason printed on your paperwork?
 
Drive train warranty is still in effect so take it to the dealer and have them check it out completely, including you and tech test driving it so you can explain to him what the problem is.

If the vehicle is slowing when descending a hill then it might be engine braking which I rarely ever notice (although there's not a lot of big hills in my area). When you notice the slowing does the rpm's jump up? That's usually indicitative of engine braking as opposed to maybe a hung caliper or shoe rubbing and causing resistance.

Another thing - - did your vehicle have the CD recall applied?
Thanks for the response. I'm not sure about RPMs jumping on decent. I'll check for that when I drive next. I know there was a recall about the CD but don't know if it's been applied or not. I imagine the Mazda dealership would have noticed if it was flagged? Is that just a pcm flash? Do you have the tsb or recall pdf or number for it? It's just odd to feel the same car in a loaner feel like it has more compression without downshifting. It's very discernible.
 
Was this lack of power problem (also a better thread title) happening before the repairs were done, after, or both?

Did they tell you why the lifters were replaced, and/or was the reason printed on your paperwork?
Both before and after. They said Mazda told them to just do the repair as they were involved because it had to go back twice for the same issue (gasket). I'll check paperwork. They did show the new lifters part number ended in 100A indicating an updated part design but I'm not sure how true that is.
 
Thanks for the response. I'm not sure about RPMs jumping on decent. I'll check for that when I drive next. I know there was a recall about the CD but don't know if it's been applied or not. I imagine the Mazda dealership would have noticed if it was flagged? Is that just a pcm flash? Do you have the tsb or recall pdf or number for it? It's just odd to feel the same car in a loaner feel like it has more compression without downshifting. It's very discernible.
I'm not sure if it was an actual recall as opposed to a TSB. Due to the severity of the problem I would think it would be a recall.
You can check with the dealer, they will know. And yes, it was a software update if the rocker arm is still intact. People who had the rocker arm come loose reported loss of power which kinda indicates what you're experiencing. Not sure if it would be more severe. Don't know if there's varying degrees of where maybe the rocker arm isn't completely disconnected.

My two Mazda's don't have CD so I'm just going by what I've read on this forum over the years.
 
snip My 2018 model has to downshift on even the slightest hill. It almost feels as if the car has less compression or that something is preventing it from riding smoothly.it seems when I go down the hill with the one I own comparative to the 2020 dealership model, mine stays the same speed or loses speed whereas the dealership cx-5 gains speed. I don't know where to start if it's a transmission issue or brakes rubbing. I don't smell anything or see anything that looks out of place as far as the brakes are concerned. Where should I start with this issue? Has anybody else had this kind of issue? Any advice would be appreciated.
hey thejas ... I have the 2019 sport and have complained to dealer and on this forum about
the speed being reduced to much when trying to coast or even going down hill.
The dealer said they all do that.... , and on this forum , had advice that it was scb or torque
converter ... still don't know what it is , but it does happen all the time, so I just put it in
neutral sometimes ... or just give it gas , even though I shouldn't have to give it gas going
down hill.. Also , it's not the gears shifting .. I've watched the rpm and it's not shifting , at
least for me..
keep us posted on what the dealer says..
 
hey thejas ... I have the 2019 sport and have complained to dealer and on this forum about
the speed being reduced to much when trying to coast or even going down hill.
The dealer said they all do that.... , and on this forum , had advice that it was scb or torque
converter ... still don't know what it is , but it does happen all the time, so I just put it in
neutral sometimes ... or just give it gas , even though I shouldn't have to give it gas going
down hill.. Also , it's not the gears shifting .. I've watched the rpm and it's not shifting , at
least for me..
keep us posted on what the dealer says..
Thanks for the reply. My issue is also going up a hill. Down-shifting even on the smallest grade. The loaner did not do this and physically felt more powerful (torque).
I'm not sure if it was an actual recall as opposed to a TSB. Due to the severity of the problem I would think it would be a recall.
You can check with the dealer, they will know. And yes, it was a software update if the rocker arm is still intact. People who had the rocker arm come loose reported loss of power which kinda indicates what you're experiencing. Not sure if it would be more severe. Don't know if there's varying degrees of where maybe the rocker arm isn't completely disconnected.

My two Mazda's don't have CD so I'm just going by what I've read on this forum over the years.
I regret getting one with cd so badly now.
 
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I'm not sure if it was an actual recall as opposed to a TSB. Due to the severity of the problem I would think it would be a recall.
You can check with the dealer, they will know. And yes, it was a software update if the rocker arm is still intact. People who had the rocker arm come loose reported loss of power which kinda indicates what you're experiencing. Not sure if it would be more severe. Don't know if there's varying degrees of where maybe the rocker arm isn't completely disconnected.

My two Mazda's don't have CD so I'm just going by what I've read on this forum over the years.
Correct me if I'm wrong but that loss of power is usually limp mode? I don't know if it feels like limp mode. I've had that in other cars and it's super obvious. I don't feel like it's that much loss of power. But it's discernible from the loaner for sure. I can see up the same hill and speeds, shifts are way different. Engines the same. Loaner holds rpms no shifts.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but that loss of power is usually limp mode? I don't know if it feels like limp mode. I've had that in other cars and it's super obvious. I don't feel like it's that much loss of power. But it's discernible from the loaner for sure. I can see up the same hill and speeds, shifts are way different. Engines the same. Loaner holds rpms no shifts.
Was the loaner a turbo by any chance? There's a big difference in performance between the 2.5 NA and 2.5 turbo. I have both and it's night and day.

Not sure what limp mode feels like since I've never had it happen. I think I remember seeing somewhere where it will not exceed 2000 rpm so you could probably get it up to about 40 mph.
Kinda limp home or to a service center.

It might just be something as simple as re-flashing the tranny software or resetting the ECU so it relearns how you drive the car. Have to tried driving it aggressively and seeing if it responds differently?

We could sit here all day and guess what it might be but the
best thing to do is voice your concerns to Mazda service and let them go from there.
 
Both before and after. They said Mazda told them to just do the repair as they were involved because it had to go back twice for the same issue (gasket). I'll check paperwork. They did show the new lifters part number ended in 100A indicating an updated part design but I'm not sure how true that is.
I'm not understanding what they told you at all, and can't imagine what correlation Mazda made between a leaking VC gasket and the need to replace the HLAs. Replacing the HLAs is a significant job, and I wouldn't expect them to authorize payment of it unless there was a good reason for doing so (usually based on lots of top end noise).

It might be helpful to see your paperwork from Mazda, so if possible, please take pictures and post them on this thread (with your personal information blacked out of course).
 
Was the loaner a turbo by any chance? There's a big difference in performance between the 2.5 NA and 2.5 turbo. I have both and it's night and day.

Not sure what limp mode feels like since I've never had it happen. I think I remember seeing somewhere where it will not exceed 2000 rpm so you could probably get it up to about 40 mph.
Kinda limp home or to a service center.

It might just be something as simple as re-flashing the tranny software or resetting the ECU so it relearns how you drive the car. Have to tried driving it aggressively and seeing if it responds differently?

We could sit here all day and guess what it might be but the
best thing to do is voice your concerns to Mazda service and let them go from there.
It was definitely not a turbo. I've had 2 different loaners at this point and both were non-turbos. I remember reading about the 2k limit and mine goes above that easily so I guess it can't be limp mode. We've had the car in 3 separate instances at this point since November and are getting annoyed at having to spend so much time at the dealership. So I'm trying to gather as much information before I go to make this the last visit.
 
I'm not understanding what they told you at all, and can't imagine what correlation Mazda made between a leaking VC gasket and the need to replace the HLAs. Replacing the HLAs is a significant job, and I wouldn't expect them to authorize payment of it unless there was a good reason for doing so (usually based on lots of top end noise).

It might be helpful to see your paperwork from Mazda, so if possible, please take pictures and post them on this thread (with your personal information blacked out of course).
I went looking for the paperwork this morning. Couldn't find it but I know we have it somewhere. As soon as I can get it, I'll post it here. Thanks for the tip!
 
I'm not understanding what they told you at all, and can't imagine what correlation Mazda made between a leaking VC gasket and the need to replace the HLAs. Replacing the HLAs is a significant job, and I wouldn't expect them to authorize payment of it unless there was a good reason for doing so (usually based on lots of top end noise).

It might be helpful to see your paperwork from Mazda, so if possible, please take pictures and post them on this thread (with your personal information blacked out of course).
Here you are.
 

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Thanks for posting that, and it clears up the mystery (to me). According to what they wrote, you had mentioned ticking noise and, based on that noise, they decided to replace the HLAs. And that was listed on the sheet as a separate problem, completely unrelated to the timing cover leak. So all of that makes complete sense to me now.

Now getting back to your original problem statement; given that your vehicle is still under warranty, as others have previously mentioned, you have no choice other than taking it back to your service department, and trying to convince them of what you posted here. Your argument will be that the loaner you drove had more power and did not have the issues that you believe your vehicle currently has. Request that a tech take a ride with you, and then you can point out to him/her exactly what you think is abnormal. Hopefully they will be willing to do that, and will agree with you about what you think is a problem.

On the other page(s) of that paperwork, do you see any line item that looks like number of hours for labor? It's just an insignificant thing, but I'm always interested in what the automakers consider to be the appropriate amount of time for a tech to do a job.
 
One thing I'd ask for when you take it back is for them to do a compression test.
The fact that yours feels less powerful and has to downshift going up a slight incline tells me you might have one cylinder with low compression.
It's been known to happen.
 

Here you are.

0A790474-915C-41EC-B712-648198BA7AD0.jpeg
So it’s ticking noise complaint which made the Mazda tech line replaced all hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs). There’s a Service Alert for this valve ticking noise. Based on the part numbers listed on the invoice, they’re:

8 X PYFA-12-100A ADJUSTER, H
Valve Lifters - Mazda (PYFA-12-100A) Replaces: PYFA-12-100
Other Names: Engine Camshaft Follower, Adjuster Hydraulic Lash
Description: CX-3. Mazda6. CX-5. Mazda3. CX-30. Without turbo. Without cyl deactivation.

8 X PYFA-12-1A0 ADJUSTER, H
Engine Camshaft Follower - Mazda (PYFA-12-1A0)
Replaces: PYFA-12-1A0A
Other Names: Adjuster Hydraulic Lash S
Description: Intake. Cylinder Deactivation.

The “Engine Camshaft Follower” name for part no. PYFA-12-1A0 is confusing. But it does say “Adjuster Hydraulic Lash” in Other Names. This more complicated (and more expensive) HLA or hydraulic valve lifter is the switchable HLA designed for cylinder #1 and #4 for cylinder deactivation where the valve lifting function can be deactivated.

Service Alert No.: SA-012/19 Last Issued: 11/22/2019 - VALVE TAPPING OR KNOCKING NOISE HEARD FROM CYLINDER HEAD

71DE6061-66B3-4BB8-AD8A-A256D04862DA.jpeg
 
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So it’s ticking noise complaint which made the Mazda tech line replaced all hydraulic lash adjusters (HLAs). There’s a Service Alert for this valve ticking noise. Based on the part numbers listed on the invoice, they’re:

8 X PYFA-12-100A ADJUSTER, H
Valve Lifters - Mazda (PYFA-12-100A) Replaces: PYFA-12-100
Other Names: Engine Camshaft Follower, Adjuster Hydraulic Lash
Description: CX-3. Mazda6. CX-5. Mazda3. CX-30. Without turbo. Without cyl deactivation.

8 X PYFA-12-1A0 ADJUSTER, H
Engine Camshaft Follower - Mazda (PYFA-12-1A0)
Replaces: PYFA-12-1A0A
Other Names: Adjuster Hydraulic Lash S
Description: Intake. Cylinder Deactivation.

The “Engine Camshaft Follower” name for part no. PYFA-12-1A0 is confusing. But it does say “Adjuster Hydraulic Lash” in Other Names. This more complicated (and more expensive) HLA or hydraulic valve lifter is the switchable HLA designed for cylinder #1 and #4 for cylinder deactivation where the valve lifting function can be deactivated.

Service Alert No.: SA-012/19 Last Issued: 11/22/2019 - VALVE TAPPING OR KNOCKING NOISE HEARD FROM CYLINDER HEAD

View attachment 297383
Great, how can I deactivate it?
 
One thing I'd ask for when you take it back is for them to do a compression test.
The fact that yours feels less powerful and has to downshift going up a slight incline tells me you might have one cylinder with low compression.
It's been known to happen.
I'll tell them.
 
Thanks for posting that, and it clears up the mystery (to me). According to what they wrote, you had mentioned ticking noise and, based on that noise, they decided to replace the HLAs. And that was listed on the sheet as a separate problem, completely unrelated to the timing cover leak. So all of that makes complete sense to me now.

Now getting back to your original problem statement; given that your vehicle is still under warranty, as others have previously mentioned, you have no choice other than taking it back to your service department, and trying to convince them of what you posted here. Your argument will be that the loaner you drove had more power and did not have the issues that you believe your vehicle currently has. Request that a tech take a ride with you, and then you can point out to him/her exactly what you think is abnormal. Hopefully they will be willing to do that, and will agree with you about what you think is a problem.

On the other page(s) of that paperwork, do you see any line item that looks like number of hours for labor? It's just an insignificant thing, but I'm always interested in what the automakers consider to be the appropriate amount of time for a tech to do a job.
Unfortunately, it's all 0's.
 
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