What have you done to your CX-5 today?

Wow you have good clearance with those Quickjacks. If you live in a state that salts the roads in the winter you might want to spot spray under there with a liquid rust inhibitor to keep the new car shine.
Yes, I love this thing. It takes me about 15 minutes to roll the frames out of the garage, set everything up, and get the car in the air. This is the 5000 SLX, which is actually on sale at Costco this month: https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,000lb.-slx-capacity-portable-car-lift-bundle-.product.100666851.html

That's a great deal, although I suspect it's the AC-powered version. I've had mine almost 5 years, and I went with a 12V (I run it off a jumpstart battery). Bendpak has been improving them every year as well. The QuickJack website has all the different models and capacities. The length is something to look at. I've had many cars up on mine (Subaru Crosstrek and WRX, Honda CRV, Toyota RAV4, Porsche 911 and 914). This model has been great for all these, although it is probably too long for a Miata, especially the first generation. It's also heavy - the two lift frames weigh about 75 lbs each. They have wheels and they slide well on pavement, so it's not a huge issue. But maybe when I'm older it will be a concern.

As for rust inhibitor, I wasn't planning to, but now that I've been underneath I'm considering it. The paint under there looks thin, it's not a heavy chassis paint like most of our other cars. Plus I have only driven the car 300 miles, and it already had leaves and dirt behind the front mud flap locations. I may order some Fluid Film.
 
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This weekend I put the new GT-R up on the QuickJack to make mud flap installation easier. Get those big wheels out of the way. The wooden blocks just give me an extra few inches of lift, don't really need them.

Also poked around a bit underneath. Took the fill plug off the rear diff, and it looks like the fluid is low as I read to expect. Just hard to tell by how much. I was planning to also check the ATF level, but didn't really have time to remove both engine underbody trays to get to the dip stick. Maybe in the spring.
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Wow I envy you having a $1,200+ QuickJack to use at home! My wife definitely wouldn’t let me invest that kind of money for the QuickJack even if I want to!

Yep another testimony that the rear differential lubricant is low from factory. You would need additional 0.3~0.4 quart of SG1 to fill the rear differential up to the fill hole as stated in Mazda Factory Workshop Manual. And don’t be surprised if you find out the ATF level is low from factory when you have a chance to check!
 
Yes, I love this thing. It takes me about 15 minutes to roll the frames out of the garage, set everything up, and get the car in the air. This is the 5000 SLX, which is actually on sale at Costco this month: https://www.costco.com/quickjack-5,000lb.-slx-capacity-portable-car-lift-bundle-.product.100666851.html

That's a great deal, although I suspect it's the AC-powered version. I've had mine almost 5 years, and I went with a 12V (I run it off a jumpstart battery). Bendpak has been improving them every year as well. The QuickJack website has all the different models and capacities. The length is something to look at. I've had many cars up on mine (Subaru Crosstrek and WRX, Honda CRV, Toyota RAV4, Porsche 911 and 914). This model has been great for all these, although it is probably too long for a Miata, especially the first generation. It's also heavy - the two lift frames weigh about 75 lbs each. They have wheels and they slide well on pavement, so it's not a huge issue. But maybe when I'm older it will be a concern.
I believe every DIYer would like to have a QuickJack to use, but the cost would be an issue. 75 lbs per frame? That’s pretty heavy but also means the frame is strong.
As for rust inhibitor, I wasn't planning to, but now that I've been underneath I'm considering it. The paint under there looks thin, it's not a heavy chassis paint like most of our other cars. Plus I have only driven the car 300 miles, and it already had leaves and dirt behind the front mud flap locations. I may order some Fluid Film.
Just see those rust pictures on CX-5 and I definitely would do some rust-proofing underneath if I live in a snow state.

Help me off the forum ledge
 
Only way I would want a QuickJack setup is if I could leave them connected all the time, with both frames centered in the garage parking space, and just drive over/straddle them when parking normally. Otherwise it seems like a PITA to deal with, and I know others who think the same way. I can get my car up on jack stands plenty quicker than the time it takes to get those out and set up.
 
Yeah, the QJ is a bit of a luxury but I use it all the time. I've always hated jack stands, especially in my sloped driveway. The QJ can be used on up to a 7% grade, and I feel much safer under it. Maybe jackstands are quicker, but it depends on the car. And much quicker than 15 minutes is splitting hairs. Plus I can raise the car almost 2 ft.

Our garage is under the house, so I can only lift a vehicle in it about 32 inches because of a steel beam that runs down the middle of it. It barely clears my 6'-2" head. If I had the ability to raise higher, I might have gone for a MaxJax, but those are even more money and not really portable. The garage has the 911 on one side (which isn't running now) and the other side is shop space, so a dedicated lift in the garage doesn't work for me. It's nice to be able to use it anywhere in the driveway without shifting cars around (the driveway is wide enough to have 3 cars side-by-side).

You could keep the QJ in the garage and drive over it. The hoses and power unit take two minutes to connect. You can also leave the car on the lift and disconnect everything so it's not in the way.

Not for everyone, but I've never regretted the purchase.
 
I would like one but it is too expensive for me. If I needed to jack the car up often I would save and get one, currently I only need all 4 wheels off the ground about once every two years to rotate the tires.
 
Picked up my 2020 CX-5 GS demo this afternoon. All I did was put on my old 17" wheel covers on the black steel wheels for winter and hide the lock for the wheels near the spare tire where the tow hook would be stored (It's a tight fit so it won't rattle)! I'm reading the manual as this is my first Mazda and I will modify the settings to my liking like disable auto door locks.
 
I looked at that last year when it was on sale. After seeing your post, I think I now need one. :)
I was fiscally irresponsible. Anyway, it is on sale at Home Depot for $1,099 and if you don't have a HD credit card you can apply for one, giving them your SSN to see if you qualify, and if you do they take off another $100. So the price is $999.00.
BL-5000SLX
 
Not a big mod...I removed the Nissan logo from the polished stainless steel license plate frame I had on my Murano and put it on my new CX-5. I think it complements the chrome accents on my new ride! Next is a vertical cargo net that I will try to install behind the rear seat like some others I've done. I have a collection of nets from my previous vehicles, perhaps one will fit.
 
Not a big mod...I removed the Nissan logo from the polished stainless steel license plate frame I had on my Murano and put it on my new CX-5. I think it complements the chrome accents on my new ride! Next is a vertical cargo net that I will try to install behind the rear seat like some others I've done. I have a collection of nets from my previous vehicles, perhaps one will fit.

And why the logo from Nissan on Mazda? Or is it more interesting? I just don't understand these things, so I'm interested.
 
And why the logo from Nissan on Mazda? Or is it more interesting? I just don't understand these things, so I'm interested.

I believe he had a stainless steel license plate frame with a Nissan logo on it. He then removed the Nissan logo, so now it's a "blank" plate frame, then installed the plate frame on the Mazda.

The plate frame was likely something like this originally (before the Nissan logo was removed).

Capture.JPG
 
That's exactly what I've done. Blank frame on my CX-5. It costs about $50 new, why leave it on the trade-in? It's polished stainless steel, looks just like chrome but doesn't rust!
 
Not a big mod...I removed the Nissan logo from the polished stainless steel license plate frame I had on my Murano and put it on my new CX-5. I think it complements the chrome accents on my new ride! Next is a vertical cargo net that I will try to install behind the rear seat like some others I've done. I have a collection of nets from my previous vehicles, perhaps one will fit.
Yesterday I installed the vertical cargo net I had in my 2012 RAV4 against the seat back like some other members have done here; I hooked the top hooks on the seat back latches and the bottom on the existing latches used normally for the horizontal cargo net. Perhaps in the Spring I will move it closer to the back but for now, it's Winter here so I don't want to take off the side panels, drill holes, etc. Thanks for the tip I found searching this forum!
 
Just made my own "poor man's" cargo floor protector with a piece of carpet with a vinyl base normally used as a runner carpet. I had it on my two previous vehicles (2014 Murano, 2017 Murano), so I just trimmed about an inch or so on both sides for a perfect fit!
 
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