Cluster LED lights swap

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Mazda Protege 5 2002
Replaced all cluster lights to LED and did a mess, tach does not work, temp gauge all the way up when started have not driven it to see if the odometer works. Any guess on what happened, need a specific type of bulb? Any info would be appreciated.
 
I don't have a specific solution but I did this myself just last week with mixed results. I'll just share my brain dump of experience overall (for you and others) and maybe we can both come to a solution 😁

I've read around here that the following bulbs are required:
2 x 194 bulb, red
2 x 2723 bulb, red (some have used 74s with mixed results...see quote below)
The 74s I bought from 2 different stores didn't fit right, as they were too wide/large. I could force them into the socket connector, but it spread out the plastic sides such that I couldn't get the connector back into the back of the circuit board. Took them back to the store with the factory bulb, and it looked like #2723 (I think) was the closest size match. Wattage was a tad higher, but nothing major. The 2723s fit perfectly and worked great once I put it all back together.

LEDs by nature are polarized, meaning you need to have each lead installed to the correct terminal (I assume you know this but stating anyways for continuity). I've seen some bulb makers claim otherwise but I wouldn't assume. When you go to swap the bulbs, they're in those little removable plug things, which can be inserted to allow for both polarities (meaning there's a 50/50 chance the LEDS won't turn on). First and foremost, I would switch around the ones that aren't working to see if that might fix things.

If you're daring, you can also sort of fenagle one of the cluster connectors that powers the lights (I think the big one on the right if I remember correctly?) into the socket of the cluster while it is out from behind the wheel, in order to see if the LEDs are turning on (and adjust them quickly), but do this at your own risk.

Also keep in mind that the auto/manual clusters are technically different. Don't know what implications this has on bulb size etc. but keep it in mind.

My problem right now is that the 194s I bought are sorta loose and not bright at all, so I will need to buy better ones. My 2723s are very bright and sort of make brighter spots right where they're plugged in. I may try to make little diffusers for them to spread the light better.

Best of luck and let us know how it goes!
 
Like Benji said, if the bulb doesn't light up, try turning them around to see if it works. I've always had good luck with the led bulbs from superbrightleds.com and have ordered 2 sets for 2 different proteges. Here's an old receipt, I'm hoping the part numbers are still the same. The trick is to make sure you get an led that covers wide angles else it will produce hot spots. Also, I didn't have fitment issues with my 74's. I suppose the size of the base varies by brand.

Qty | Product / Options
============================================================
2 | 74-xHP3: 74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base
74-RHP3: Red
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base
WLED-RHP5: Red

Here's a picture of my gauge cluster and it's not even dark outside yet :)

i-hGJvVjv-L.jpg
 
So you guys only replaced the illumination bulbs? I did change all including the small ones for the warning lights, maybe there is the problem!
 
For me, I only replaced the 4 illuminating bulbs since I didn't care for replacing the warning lights.
 
I only changed the four illumination bulbs (two smaller and two larger). I initially saw all of the others, as well as some of the open, unfilled slots in the back, but it makes sense now why those don't really need to be replaced unless they go out.

Also, I didn't have fitment issues with my 74's. I suppose the size of the base varies by brand.
@323 - this seems to be inline with that I've heard, so I won't generalize and say that 74s are wrong. I think it really does depend on the quality of the bulb you're buying. Good to have this info, I may look at the bulbs you suggested to replace the cheapo eBay ones I bought.
 
I only changed the four illumination bulbs (two smaller and two larger). I initially saw all of the others, as well as some of the open, unfilled slots in the back, but it makes sense now why those don't really need to be replaced unless they go out.


@323 - this seems to be inline with that I've heard, so I won't generalize and say that 74s are wrong. I think it really does depend on the quality of the bulb you're buying. Good to have this info, I may look at the bulbs you suggested to replace the cheapo eBay ones I bought.

I do remember having to bend the prongs on the bulb seat so that it was a tighter fit for a couple bulbs that would want to go in and out. Other than that, no issues to report :)
 
I feel like dumb, find out that one of the plugs was not well connected, everything works fine after, thanks all!
 
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I feel like dumb, find out that one of the plugs was not well connected, everything works fine after, thanks all!
Great! Simple fixes are the best fixes 👍.
You've motivated me to go order new LEDs for my cluster to finish converting it. Definitely a great mod.

Ben
 
OK, what special trick besides depressing the lock tang on the plugs is there to get the cluster harnesses unplugged? It's like they're welded in or something. Don't wanna break anything or pull wires out of the plug trying to get them out. Don't remember this ever being an issue. Have pried gently while depressing tang but still no go. Got the 2 large center bulbs swapped but the smaller outer 2 seem to be behind plastic cover on back of cluster. This shouldn't be this much of a pain.
 
I always use a tiny flat head, push the locking tab down and gently pry.
 
Alrighty......was able to remove the upper mounting bracket and maneuver the whole cluster upside down and flipped over to access the back and find the other 2 bulbs and get them all going without removing any harnesses. Diggin the results....................

before...............

20201123_105032.jpg


after.......................

20201123_133135.jpg


Both pics are full brightness on dash knob. Should be able to turn it down a bit now with the LEDs.
 
I always use a tiny flat head, push the locking tab down and gently pry.
Yeah, was doing that and more, to the point of giving up before breaking something or pulling wires from connector. But the "more than one way to skin a cat" method got the job done without any damage, lol.
 
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So where to get the rubber condoms for the bulbs. I tried to replace my GFs cluster's bulbs yesterday and managed to damage the small ones.
 
Mine are OK that I removed but for the price and improvement I would just get the 4 superbright LEDs and call it good. LED way outlasting oems, brighter & less current/heat. These are what I ordered off superbrightleds dot com.......

Qty | Product / Options
============================================================
2 | 74-xHP3: 74 LED Bulb - 3 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base
74-RHP3: Red
------------------------------------------------------------
2 | WLED-xHP5: 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base
WLED-RHP5: Red



.......or PM me for my address and send me a self addressed stamped envelope and you can has the 4 bulbs I took out with the condoms on them. All 4 bulbs were still working................
 
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