2016.5 CX-5 Transmission fluid change questions

Harbor Freight seems to be having issues. They used to have all kinds of freebees throughout the year but not anymore. They also stopped mailing fliers with the 20% or 25% coupons.
 
Harbor Freight seems to be having issues. They used to have all kinds of freebees throughout the year but not anymore. They also stopped mailing fliers with the 20% or 25% coupons.

I think what they're doing is deliberate otherwise the entire 20-25% coupon would've been long gone. Even the prices of the nitrile gloves went up all the way from $5-8 to $11-18 pre-covid. Either that or they don't have enough customers to make them stay afloat so they're trying to cut back on the freebees which I highly doubt.
 
I think what they're doing is deliberate otherwise the entire 20-25% coupon would've been long gone. Even the prices of the nitrile gloves went up all the way from $5-8 to $11-18 pre-C-19. Either that or they don't have enough customers to make them stay afloat so they're trying to cut back on the freebees which I highly doubt.
Well, almost all tools selling by Harbor Freight Tools are from China. The trade war caused higher import duty, and the pandemic caused slow business. Both would make the cost for HF getting higher, hence the higher price tag and less discount.
 
Well, almost all tools selling by Harbor Freight Tools are from China. The trade war caused higher import duty, and the pandemic caused slow business. Both would make the cost for HF getting higher, hence the higher price tag and less discount.

That makes a lot more sense. Just can't wait for the prices to come back down for the gloves and also the freebees. I mean not everything from HF is good quality but most of their stuff fits the bill and works fine for me so I don't mind. Biggest issue so far they can't seem to get right is the jack stands. There was like 2-3 recalls within the past year LOL
 
I got this oil sludge around the transmission pan. Thinking i have to clean them first before removing the pan. What product do you use to remove them? Also, have some on the plastic tray from the previous leak. it was not cleaned properly when I had this done on a shop before.
 
A ton of valuable information in here! Given that I'm short on time (& energy), I'm planning on taking my CX-5 to a shop to take care of the 2 drain + fills and 1 pan drop (68k miles).

Is there any harm in getting all 3 drain + fills done on the same day? Or should I ask the shop to do the first two and then let me take it home for a couple of weeks so I can drive it around before for the final pan drop?
 
A ton of valuable information in here! Given that I'm short on time (& energy), I'm planning on taking my CX-5 to a shop to take care of the 2 drain + fills and 1 pan drop (68k miles).

Is there any harm in getting all 3 drain + fills done on the same day? Or should I ask the shop to do the first two and then let me take it home for a couple of weeks so I can drive it around before for the final pan drop?
If you're doing a pan drop, there should be no reason to also to the drain/fills
 
If you're doing a pan drop, there should be no reason to also to the drain/fills
My understanding is that regardless of if you drop the pan or not, there is no way to remove the majority of the old fluid since it is stored in the torque converter. To alleviate this, most people around here suggest doing 2 drain and fills and then drop the pan.
 
A ton of valuable information in here! Given that I'm short on time (& energy), I'm planning on taking my CX-5 to a shop to take care of the 2 drain + fills and 1 pan drop (68k miles).

Is there any harm in getting all 3 drain + fills done on the same day? Or should I ask the shop to do the first two and then let me take it home for a couple of weeks so I can drive it around before for the final pan drop?
No harm in doing it all the same day as long as they’re cycling the fluid between drain and fills (idle and cycle through the gears, or drive it around the block). Dont want to keep draining the new fluid added and replacing it each time. This is how the latest gen Toyota RAV4 manual recommends it be done (cycling slowly through gear selection while idling).
 
What kind of sample size do we have for the rubber gasket option? Looks like Beck/Arnley and Wix are the main choices. Sounds like @Boland01 had success in using the rubber trans pan gasket instead of RTV. It is likely a whole hell of a lot easier than this RTV fiasco; and if it means it’s easier to drop the pan again 50k miles later as well, I’m all for it.

Could do a combo of a thin layer of Permatex ATF RTV between the rubber gasket and pan surface only. Therefor you won’t have to scrape any residue off the transmission case on the next time around. It also looks like you want to be on the lower side of the torque spec interval if using the rubber gasket though to prevent too much deformation.

I’m too worried about sending RTV straight into the transmission pan upon compressing to then mix with the fluid. If I were to do it at all, it’d be a thin layer rubbed uniformly just like in the previously referenced video.
 
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What kind of sample size do we have for the rubber gasket option? Looks like Beck/Arnley and Wix are the main choices. Sounds like @Boland01 had success in using the rubber trans pan gasket instead of RTV. It is likely a whole hell of a lot easier than this RTV fiasco; and if it means it’s easier to drop the pan again 50k miles later as well, I’m all for it.

Could do a combo of a thin layer of Permatex ATF RTV between the rubber gasket and pan surface only. Therefor you won’t have to scrape any residue off the transmission case on the next time around. It also looks like you want to be on the lower side of the torque spec interval if using the rubber gasket though to prevent too much deformation.

I’m too worried about sending RTV straight into the transmission pan upon compressing to then mix with the fluid. If I were to do it at all, it’d be a thin layer rubbed uniformly just like in the previously referenced video.
No matter what, I’d scrape the old residue off the pan and the transmission housing. I’d do only RTV or only a “rubber” gasket. If a “rubber” gasket; apply clean and dry. You want a nice clean surface between the pan and transmission whether or not you’re using a preformed vs RTV gasket.
 
No matter what, I’d scrape the old residue off the pan and the transmission housing. I’d do only RTV or only a “rubber” gasket. If a “rubber” gasket; apply clean and dry. You want a nice clean surface between the pan and transmission whether or not you’re using a preformed vs RTV gasket.
No doubt; since I’ll likely have it on ramps when doing it, I’m probably going to let it drain for some hours as I’ve done this before on other vehicles. The residual fluid can sometimes want to drip and rest on the lowest point of that mating surface. It’s especially crucial if using just RTV for sure.

Why do you say rubber gasket only instead of using a combination? I’ve seen people mention using a combo and the Toyota Car Care Nut guy (who is probably the most thorough mechanic in existence) has a whole video on it.
 
No doubt; since I’ll likely have it on ramps when doing it, I’m probably going to let it drain for some hours as I’ve done this before on other vehicles. The residual fluid can sometimes want to drip and rest on the lowest point of that mating surface. It’s especially crucial if using just RTV for sure.

Why do you say rubber gasket only instead of using a combination? I’ve seen people mention using a combo and the Toyota Car Care Nut guy (who is probably the most thorough mechanic in existence) has a whole video on it.
I recommend just the gasket as I haven’t seen manufacturer recommendations to apply anything extra. A cursory search online also yields many posts and arguments in favor of “clean and dry” preventing many issues folks bring cars into shops for (leaks, debris in transmission).
 
Manufacturer recommendations are to not use a gasket at all but I’m following you. I guess finding the right torque will be a test of trial and error; I’ve read people saying torquing to factory spec deforms the rubber gasket too much to seal properly. So guess it’s a visual game? My guess would be to start below factory torque spec and take a gauge of how compressed the gasket looks. Is there any reason to let the gasket sit overnight or 24 hours to conform to its surroundings before filling with fluid?
 
I’m gonna pick up a new pan and use included gasket with filter kit when I do mine next time. Pans are pretty cheap and save some time.
 
Manufacturer recommendations are to not use a gasket at all but I’m following you. I guess finding the right torque will be a test of trial and error; I’ve read people saying torquing to factory spec deforms the rubber gasket too much to seal properly. So guess it’s a visual game? My guess would be to start below factory torque spec and take a gauge of how compressed the gasket looks. Is there any reason to let the gasket sit overnight or 24 hours to conform to its surroundings before filling with fluid?
Yeah, I mean that there’s no direction from the manufacturer of the gasket to add anything to it. If you add RTV to the gasket I figure you might as well have gone with just RTV. People will add tacky material to the gasket just to hold it in place during the install, but I don’t think you have to double down with RTV on the gasket as then you wouldn’t be trusting it to do its job. Adds an extra variable that I don’t think is necessary.

You can torque and fill (check for leaks), and consider torquing the bolts again after 100 miles or something just in case they loosened.
 
We are waiting for our 2024 CX 5 T to arrive. I'm learning so much reading about these cool cars on this forum.

I have to give the credit to my wife who wanted a cross over. I was happy in the 2009 Honda with performance suspension and ties. Then I found the CX 5. What a nice balance of utility and performance. I've researched performance coilovers and such.

Honda recommends changing the ATF every 30K. They recommend changing it 3 times to flush the system. Many of us Honda guys change the trans one time every 10K.

Honda doesn't recommend changing the external trans filter. I changed this filter at 100K and could tell a difference how it shifted. Also, I can tell a difference after doing a trans fluid change every 10K how it shifts.

Over in another world, HD diesel pick ups, I change the trans fluid and filter every 30K. Again, I can feel the difference they way it shifts. On this old school 2006 trans, I adjust 2 trans band each time. The trans went 230K before I killed it hot rodding the truck. No more hot rodding a 6,500 pound tow pig!

I plan to change the ATF, one time, every 10K in the CX 5. At the 100K mark, drop the trans pan and replace the filter. Maybe sooner. It can't hurt to have fresh ATF/filter.

Maybe someone will have a shift kit or be doing some trans tuning in the software soon. My truck tuner has greatly improved upshift and down shifts. We modified the valve body/solenoids as well. I have a standalone TCU in my race car. Tuning the trans shift pressures, what rpm the converter locks and unlocks makes a measurable difference.

I'm looking forward to this next chapter with a CX 5 T!
 
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