What did you pay for your CX-5?

For 2021 they are ditching all engines with cylinder deactivation from what I know.

According to the EPA test data, cylinder deactivation was dropped from the CX-30 for 2021. It had it for 2020.

It would be interesting that Mazda took the time to add a cylinder deactivation status display for the 2020 CX-5 only to remove the feature for 2021.
 
Here's a bit of info for anyone looking to lease anything from Mazda. Up until recently Mazda used Chase to handle all their leasing contracts. They're now using Toyota's financing arm for this purpose.

Here's the catch.

With Chase you had an automatic $1000 insurance coverage to take care of any scratches, dings or whatever when you returned your leased car. You also had what's called gap insurance, which covers the difference between what your insurance might pay in the event your car was totaled and the payoff on the car. So if your payoff was $26000 say, and the insurance company would only pay $22000 of the cost you were covered for the difference up to some amount, I don't remember exactly what the cutoff was.

Now with Toyota finance both of those things are gone, and the dealer will try and sell them to you for about $800 as an add on. The add on has some better coverage, but still, without it they can ding you for any small thing when you turn in the car, and any 3 year old leased car is going to have some minor stuff no matter how careful you are. So you sort of have to have it or you're at their mercy.

I found this out after I had negotiated the lease deal on my new 2020 CX-5 GT and went to talk to the finance guy to finish the deal and he laid it on me. In my case this is my third leased CX-5, first a '15, then a '17 and now the '20 all from the same dealer. I also had bought my 2010 Mazda5 from them before I started on the lease track, which I traded toward the '15. It's Autobarn Mazda in Evanston IL if anyone cares.

This would have added on about $20 monthly to my lease cost. Long story short, I basically said no thanks since I still had a month on my lease and had time to start the whole game over. When they realized I was seriously gonna walk out with my old car they decided to just eat it and throw in the insurance. Now honestly I'm not mad about it, they did what they needed to do to keep a longstanding customer, which is what a decent dealer should do. They said I should have been told about the change from the beginning since when I started the whole deal I told them I just wanted to lease the same car in a 2020 - GT, Red, PP - with no BS, what's it gonna cost me.

In the end it worked out fine, and I have no issue with the dealer, they were stand up by me. But you should be aware of this if you're leasing from Mazda and factor it in ahead of time. Mazda leasing ain't great to begin with, you don't get any sort of compensation for unused miles. When my wife leased a new Acura last year they rolled the previous 6000 unused miles into the new lease so while we leased it for 30000 miles we actually got 36000 instead.

I hope this keeps anyone from an unpleasant surprise at the dreaded finance guy's desk...

Interesting. They did not mention this to me when I leased my new CX5 on Saturday.
 
Thank you all for the guidance. Here's the breakdown of what I have so far....
  • MSRP/Retail $31,610.00 (white Grand Touring)
  • Total Savings + Rebates $5,036.36
  • Selling Price - Rebate $26,573.64
  • Government Fees $293.45
  • Proc/Doc Fees $999.95
  • Total Taxes $1,710.80
  • Total - $29,577.84
 
Thank you all for the guidance. Here's the breakdown of what I have so far....
  • MSRP/Retail $31,610.00 (white Grand Touring)
  • Total Savings + Rebates $5,036.36
  • Selling Price - Rebate $26,573.64
  • Government Fees $293.45
  • Proc/Doc Fees $999.95
  • Total Taxes $1,710.80
  • Total - $29,577.84
I would say the document fee looks high. See if you can negoiate it down or subtract some of it from the sale price. $1k seems a lot higher than what folks have shared here for document processing.
 
That doc fee is robbery. They need to cut it in half at the very least and subtract it from the sales price. Thst gets around them telling you that they have to charge it and it has to show on the paperwork by law. They can make the sales price whatever they want to accommodate but if they balk then I would walk.
 
If you have quite a bit of snow, go for the AWD, it is worth it, otherwise FWD should be ok.

Personally I would wait for the 2021 model for the better infotainment. Not sure you will get the same deal though. Plus, I see that is a 2.5l non-turbo model. Does it have cylinder deactivation ? If yes, you should stay away from it. For 2021 they are ditching all engines with cylinder deactivation from what I know.
Thx Muggs, San Diego California... (y)
 
I'd tell you, but just like the Olypmics you'd have to throw out the high and low number
 
Hey, looking for another deal on a CX-5 or Cx-9 for the wife and have a conundrum. Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?
 
Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?
I'm not sure I'm seeing your point. That a "new" car should have been built 2 or 3 months ago? You think that when you drive by a new car dealership that the 200-300 cars on the lot were built 2 months ago?

I'm going to let someone else respond. I don't know how to answer this in a nice way that won't get me banned
 
Hey, looking for another deal on a CX-5 or Cx-9 for the wife and have a conundrum. Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?

Legally, a dealer can sell a car as "new" even if it is several years old, provided it has not been sold/titled to someone previously. As to whether a car built six months ago deserves a discount, very few customers are concerned about this so it is not customary to offer an additional discount. Keep in mind that these cars aren't built in the US and it can easily take 2-3 months for a car to make it's way from Japan to the dealer's lot, so even the newest cars on the lot likely are few months old.

Having said this, a fresher car is better in my book with respect to things like tires batteries, etc. so if I had a choice, I'd cherry pick a car off the lot with a later build date.

- Mark
 
I'd tell you, but just like the Olypmics you'd have to throw out the high and low number
2 quotes I got from my online inquiry- 38325 for soul red and 37030 for magnetic gray and that‘s after rebates with 0% APR financing. Not including TTL.
 
I'm not sure I'm seeing your point. That a "new" car should have been built 2 or 3 months ago? You think that when you drive by a new car dealership that the 200-300 cars on the lot were built 2 months ago?

I'm going to let someone else respond. I don't know how to answer this in a nice way that won't get me banned

Actually, since you responded the way you did, I'll give you a lesson. Yes, I do expect a car to be built and on a dealer lot within the last couple months. I just purchased a CX-5 mid August with a build date of JULY on the door jamb. So, build and transit time to the US from Japan is minimal. If a vehicle is built in the US then the time should be even shorter. I guess you like to eat stale twinkies sitting on a store shelf for 6 months since they were, ya know "new" in the box.

There are many logical reasons why a person would want a fresh build. One of them has to do with the manufacturer implementing fixes at the factory to issues that crop up which are reported where they revise a part number or perform quiet updates when the car is being built. You may not care if you are just leasing a car but if I'm dropping cash, I want the best there is available

My question is valid and I sincerely am looking to know some insight, not an argument.
 
Hey, looking for another deal on a CX-5 or Cx-9 for the wife and have a conundrum. Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?
Only recently have I seen a uptick in the number of vehicles on local Mazda dealers lots. The dealers I have dealt with were down to below half the number of CX-5's they normally have, attributable to C-19 reduction in production & ensuing delivery to dealers. I was helping my son car shop recently & because he likes my CX-5 GTR we looked at availability. There was way less selection compared to when I bought mine last year.
My first 2019 CX-5 GTR was rear ended & totaled last year after only 4 months. My dealer had it's clone on their lot which had been sitting there for around 5 months. I was more concerned that the longer the vehicle sits on the lot, the more likely it is to be used on multiple test drives. Fortunately the replacement clone only had 5 miles on it. I was happy with that.
Yes, it was a NEW car. I actually got a better price on the replacement than I did on the first one because the dealer had high inventory last year & the car was already on their lot.
 
As another data point, my 2019 MX-5 Miata was built in Japan at the end of September 2019. It backed off the transport truck at the dealer in Texas on October 19 with 7 miles on the odometer - less than a month after it was built.
 
My question is valid and I sincerely am looking to know some insight, not an argument.
Okay, then here's my insight. I don't think a dealer will negotiate a differente price on 2 different cars next to each other on the lot, based on their production date.
Hey, looking for another deal on a CX-5 or Cx-9 for the wife and have a conundrum. Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?

Yes, I think most, if not everyone, would "purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020". Yes. I think that anyone would consider that a new car
 
Okay, then here's my insight. I don't think a dealer will negotiate a differente price on 2 different cars next to each other on the lot, based on their production date.

Dealers have incentive to move older models first. The longer a specific vehicle sits on the lot, the more floor plan interest it accrues which increases the cost and lowers the profit margin on that unit. Sometimes, an automaker will offer "floor plan assistance". There have been rare cases where dealers received more in floor plan assistance from the automaker than the amount of interest they paid to the banks in which case they'd rather let a vehicle sit on the lot while it makes money. :)
 
Yes, I think most, if not everyone, would "purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020". Yes. I think that anyone would consider that a new car
Wait a minute. Are you telling me cars are NOT the same as Twinkies? No "best if used by" date on the window sticker? My gawd!

[/sarc]
 
Thank you all for the guidance. Here's the breakdown of what I have so far....
  • MSRP/Retail $31,610.00 (white Grand Touring)
  • Total Savings + Rebates $5,036.36
  • Selling Price - Rebate $26,573.64
  • Government Fees $293.45
  • Proc/Doc Fees $999.95
  • Total Taxes $1,710.80
  • Total - $29,577.84

What are the "Government Fees"? The only government fee I'm aware of is already listed (as taxes ;)).

Doc fee seems high, but my understanding is that depending on the state and the dealership, the doc fee can be anything. I've seen it as low as $70 and as high as $1k in this thread. It looks like your quote has about $1300 that would probably go towards keeping the lights on at the dealership. You can try and push a little harder to get as much of that $1300 discounted off the retail price.

Hey, looking for another deal on a CX-5 or Cx-9 for the wife and have a conundrum. Would anyone purchase a new vehicle from a dealer that has a build date of 2/2020 or 3/2020? That's like 6 or 7 months old already. I've found many of the same from multiple dealers. What gives? Would anyone consider that a NEW car? What percent off msrp should you get for being that old?

I took delivery of my 2018 in January 2018. It shows a build date of 09/17.

Personally I would have no issue buying a car with a 6-7 month old build date, but I think the reasons for not wanting to are valid.

I would not expect to get any additional discount. If there were two identical vehicles of the same MY on the lot, both quoted for the same price, but one with an earlier build date, I'm sure the dealer would oblige if you cherry-picked the newer vehicle. But, IMO, if you chose the older vehicle and asked for a discount, it's very unlikely that you'd get it. With that said, if you have built up some rapport with your salesperson and can make a compelling case for why the older vehicle should be discounted, you can sell the salesperson on giving you a better deal.

TL;DR - I'm sure it can be done, but it wouldn't be a hand out.


New member here from Kansas City. Looking to buy 2020 CX signature. How much did you pay for yours?

People have reported as low as 33k. 10% off of the MSRP, especially now with the reduced inventory, would be considered a good deal.
 
2 quotes I got from my online inquiry- 38325 for soul red and 37030 for magnetic gray and that‘s after rebates with 0% APR financing. Not including TTL.
I've already mentioned it ad nauseam, and I don't know that these deals are available anymore. I paid $32,494 and a doc fee of $599. I didn't argue too much since came to barely over 33,000 and knew I was getting a steal
 
Last edited:
Back