What have you done to your CX-9 today?

very nice jobs you did their. I have the viper smart start system installed in mine and have those functions minus the talk command feature you displayed.
very eager to know how was the process in wiring the rear dash cam? I would love to install one in the rear of my cx9 but I don’t want to pay another 150 which is what it cost me to have a front kenwood dash cam installed lol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned), so the rear camera connects to the front camera and I just run the wire through the right side of the roof liner. The cable comes out in the middle of the rear side of the the roof liner, and I ran the wire into the hoses for the rear brake light so the cable is not visible
 
Spent most of the day, and currently still doing so, waiting for paint to dry.

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I hate chrome/clear tail lights,, and chrome badges. Today I puttered on the rear of the 9. VHT red nite-shades for the tail lights and white/gloss/clear Plasti-dip for two of the badges on the tailgate. Looks so much better.



Before:
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After:
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very nice jobs you did their. I have the viper smart start system installed in mine and have those functions minus the talk command feature you displayed.
very eager to know how was the process in wiring the rear dash cam? I would love to install one in the rear of my cx9 but I don’t want to pay another 150 which is what it cost me to have a front kenwood dash cam installed lol
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This is how I have mine wired up. If you're wiring up a new dashcam you can start from the fuse box and go from the left side instead of the right.
 
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This is how I have mine wired up. If you're wiring up a new dashcam you can start from the fuse box and go from the left side instead of the right.

Hi, just a heads up - when you were running the wiring, did you ensure that your wiring runs behind the A-pillar and curtain airbags? If the wire is in front of the airbags, it can interfere with the way they deploy, making them prone to malfunctioning when you might need them. I had to run my wire from the camera to the base of the windshield and cross over there instead.
 
I hate chrome/clear tail lights,, and chrome badges. Today I puttered on the rear of the 9. VHT red nite-shades for the tail lights and white/gloss/clear Plasti-dip for two of the badges on the tailgate. Looks so much better.

Those lights came out awesome!! Nice job on everything.
 
Those lights came out awesome!! Nice job on everything.
Thanks sm1ke. That was my first time using plasti dip, and it went fairly well. Learned a few things for the next time, and the 9 looks so much better. Door handles are next.
 
Thanks sm1ke. That was my first time using plasti dip, and it went fairly well. Learned a few things for the next time, and the 9 looks so much better. Door handles are next.

It's crazy how much of a difference the chrome bar delete makes on the front. It looks a lot cleaner now IMO.
 
It's crazy how much of a difference the chrome bar delete makes on the front. It looks a lot cleaner now IMO.
Agreed. Thinking that the rear one will get done white also, then the front and rear Mazda logo will be black.
 
Did the brakes today. The old brakes pulsed, had no e-brake, and I new that the rear pads were very worn. Got some cross drilled rotors and ceramic pads from MagumBrake, Raybestos hardware and e-brake shoes. The e-brake was seized pretty bad, so good to have it working properly again. Did a good break-in and stopping feels great. Never used cross drilled; just hoping to not have any pulsing for a long while. Time will tell


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The old stuff.
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Updated the Mazda Connect on my CX-9 to the latest 7th generation software 70.00.367A. In preperation for AA/CP hardware kit to get delivered.
 
Updated the Mazda Connect on my CX-9 to the latest 7th generation software 70.00.367A. In preperation for AA/CP hardware kit to get delivered.

How did the update go? Pretty straightforward? Is there a guide you used for the process?
 
How did the update go? Pretty straightforward? Is there a guide you used for the process?

Very straightforward. Just took a bit of time. I followed this brilliant youtube video:

This is the website where you download the software: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda CONNECT Firmware/NA N/NA N Current Firmware

If you have version 59.00.XXX you need to upgrade to version 70.00.100A before going straight to 70.00.367A or any newer version than .100A.

That means on the my.hidrive link above, you need to click the furthest left folder labeled "NA N with 31.00.100." When you click it, the title will say "for mazda 3 only" but thats not the case.
Inside that folder click the folder "NA N 70.00.100A" The first two files inside that folder are the "...failsafe" and the "...reinstall" you need both. Inside that folder is the PDF for instructions, you can use this PDF or the PDF for the 70.00.367A below. Either will work, the one mentioned below is updated to reflect that .367 doesn't have a failsafe to download and install. This PDF, along with the youtube video I linked above will show you how to go about the install in the vehicle. It might sound intimidating but once you wrap your head around it, its not hard. You just NEED to do the 70.00.100A first. There are reports of people going right to any newer version with no issues. I didn't want to risk it, so i did the .100A then the .367A.

Once I got the failsafe and reinstall downloaded to my computer, I got a flashdrive and formatted it to FAT32 and moved the downloads to the flashdrive. I then went to my car and followed the instructions, going into diagnostics clearing codes, then waiting, then going back and installing failsafe, immediately followed by the reinstall package. About 30 minutes later it was done. After verifying the 70.00.100A was installed properly I went back and formatted that USB stick in preperation for the newest software.

I then went back into the original link above (my.hidrive) and then this time click the folder labled "NA N with 70.00..." which is to the right of the first folder we had to go to to get the 70.00.100A. This time, inside the folder there is just one download, this is the 70.00.367A. I downloaded this and installed it on my USB, inside this folder is updated PDF instructions to follow for download, you can use this PDF or the PDF I mention above. I went back to the car and followed the same exact instructions as the base 70.00.100A, but this time there is no failsafe install, its just the update. The update took the same amount of time as the reinstall package. I did notice that my Mazda connect now loads a lot faster than before. I still have to read into the 7th generation updates on what they fixed and what changes occurred the car. I've only had it for less than 2 months so I'm not likely to notice many differences. especially with not driving it much in those 2 months due to working from home.
 
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Very straightforward. Just took a bit of time. I followed this brilliant youtube video:

This is the website where you download the software: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda CONNECT Firmware/NA N/NA N Current Firmware

If you have version 59.00.XXX you need to upgrade to version 70.00.100A before going straight to .367 or any newer version than .100.

That means on the my.hidrive link above, you need to click the furthest left folder labeled "NA N with 31.00.100." When you click it, the title will say "for mazda 3 only" but thats not the case.
Inside that folder click the folder "NA N 70.00.100A" The first two files inside that folder are the "...failsafe" and the "...reinstall" you need both. Inside that folder is the PDF for instructions, you can use this PDF or the PDF for the 70.00.367A below. Either will work, the one mentioned below is updated to reflect that .367 doesn't have a failsafe to download and install. This PDF, along with the youtube video I linked above will show you how to go about the install in the vehicle. It might sound intimidating but once you wrap your head around it, its not hard. You just NEED to do the 70.00.100A first. There are reports of people going right to any newer version with no issues. I didn't want to risk it, so i did the .100A then the .367A.

Once I got the failsafe and reinstall downloaded to my computer, I got a flashdrive and formatted it to FAT32 and moved the downloads to the flashdrive. I then went to my car and followed the instructions, going into diagnostics clearing codes, then waiting, then going back and installing failsafe, immediately followed by the reinstall package. About 30 minutes later it was done. After verifying the 70.00.100A was installed properly I went back and formatted that USB stick in preperation for the newest software.

I then went back into the original link above (my.hidrive) and then this time click the folder labled "NA N with 70.00..." which is to the right of the first folder we had to go to to get the 70.00.100A. This time, inside the folder there is just one download, this is the 70.00.367A. I downloaded this and installed it on my USB, inside this folder is updated PDF instructions to follow for download, you can use this PDF or the PDF I mention above. I went back to the car and followed the same exact instructions as the base 70.00.100A, but this time there is no failsafe install, its just the update. The update took the same amount of time as the reinstall package. I did notice that my Mazda connect now loads a lot faster than before. I still have to read into the 7th generation updates on what they fixed and what changes occurred the car. I've only had it for less than 2 months so I'm not likely to notice many differences. especially with not driving it much in those 2 months due to working from home.

Thanks bud, I added a link to your post in the CX-9 Resources for future reference. Appreciate the details!
 
Changed my engine oil, transmission fluid, transfer case gear oil, and rear diff gear oil. Per the owner's manual, transfer case and rear diff each are approx 0.48qt. I drained both out and got very very close to 1qt. However when I filled them, they combine took a bit over 1 quart. So be sure to grab 2 bottles of the sg1 gear oil. As for the transmission, I let it drain for about 2hrs and got 5qt out. So 5qt new fluid only freshened 60%. I plan change the fluid once more, and also change out the filter. If you plan to change your tranny fluid, pick up a flexible tube + a skinny funnel. They will make your life a lot easier for $4. Below is a reference of what I used.
 
Whole bunch of detailing done today, not too much since I gotta go to work soon. Tried out Griots 3in1 ceramic wax stuff. Works pretty well from what I can tell. Still doesn't hold its own against even their Best of Show wax but, damnit, it was seriously easy to apply.
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Whole bunch of detailing done today, not too much since I gotta go to work soon. Tried out Griots 3in1 ceramic wax stuff. Works pretty well from what I can tell. Still doesn't hold its own against even their Best of Show wax but, damnit, it was seriously easy to apply.
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That good nice. What year is yours? I have a used 2017 I picked up a month ago and the paint wasn't the best kept. I did 1 pass each of compound and then polish on my DA. Then did a coat of blackfire ceramic sealant. Looks good but 3 years of neglect was hard to overcome with my hobbiest supply of materials.
 
That good nice. What year is yours? I have a used 2017 I picked up a month ago and the paint wasn't the best kept. I did 1 pass each of compound and then polish on my DA. Then did a coat of blackfire ceramic sealant. Looks good but 3 years of neglect was hard to overcome with my hobbiest supply of materials.
2020 about a week and a half old. It sat at the port of Baltimore for a few months though due to covid and the dealership had construction going on. I hit it with griots complete compound after a full panel clay bar. Im still iffy about the spray on ceramic waxes but everyone swears by them so we shall see. Im going to predict im going to strip off the ceramic wax in a few weeks, polish, wax (paste-griots), then seal it all in with 2 nice coats of the ceramic wax.
 
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