bwalt's MSP build log

[bwalt]

Water/meth system installed. I'm not totally happy with the pump and tank location but it will do for now. Protected lines with that fancy expandable loom and routed underneath car along side the fuel lines.








Mounted the water injection valve on backside of cold air box and injector nozzle on cold
side pipe near intercooler exit.






Control board is mounted in the glove box. It has a case but it's off right now so I can swap jumpers around to test the system before driving and make sure water is actually spraying.

System is wired to the haltech so it will trigger 2 different fuel/boost/ignition maps. One for high boost/water injection and one for low boost/conservative timing in case the system is turned off, water level goes low or there's a flow fault. The way it works is the aquamist will send a 5 volt signal when powered up to tell the haltech everything's good, enable high boost. If there's a fault or the gauge is turned off, the aquamist sends a 0 volt signal to the haltech and it automatically reverts to the safe map.




Had to ditch my wideband cause I didn't have an extra pod. Haltech's taking care of o2 control anyways so it was an easy kill.




Boost controller re-located, now it's time for the dyno!

 

[323]

So high tech! I like all the tiny details to your mods. I see you mounted your meth tank in the trunk. For some reason I imagined you would mount it in the engine bay.

 

[bwalt]

Thanks man! I have a tendency to nerd out on tiny details haha.

The Aquamist system was designed to be trunk mounted. There wouldn't be room for it either in my engine bay unless I re-purposed the windshield washer tank for meth but I didn't want to go that route.

 

[bwalt]

This is how the bracket and pump was supposed to look. I want to do it this way and tuck everything to the side of the trunk but I'd have to make a custom mount and my fab skills suck.

 

[LinuxRacr]

Nice updates. You are making me want to keep my MP3!

 

[323]

Nice updates. You are making me want to keep my MP3!

YOU MEAN YOU THINK ABOUT GETTING RID OF IT FROM TIME TO TIME CASUALLY WHILE DESTROYING A FAMILY SIZED BAG OF CRINKLE CUT SOUR CREAM AND ONION POTATO CHIPS?

 

[SavagePk]

I feel like I'm missing a lot.

 

[bwalt]

Went to the dyno yesterday... wasn't able to push it very hard due to ignition break up. Tried closing the spark plug gap to 0.024" and it helped slightly. Coil packs are suspect.

Boosting off wastegate spring @ 14.5psi

252hp/214tq on 94 pump
273hp/231tq on 94 + meth
314hp/268tq "dynojet estimated"





Apparently this dyno 'reads low' compared to a Dynojet. The software does a conversion on the numbers and shows higher hp and tq. I don't really care what the numbers say really because the track is where the actual results will be had.

Here's some video for you guys to watch, the misfire is noticeable in a couple of the pulls.

 

[SavagePk]

Sounds beastly gj

 

[bwalt]

I've found my spark blow out issue. Went on a 2hr cruise and about half way through I noticed the engine had an intermittent stumble. It seemed to clear up for a short period and then by the time I exited the highway the engine was full on miss-firing like a coil just failed.

Popped the hood, checked connections at coils and soon as I wiggled the wires to #4 coil, miss-fire went away. On the way home, the problem happened two more times and each time adjusting the same wires cured the symptom. Obviously I have a bad connection right at the coil, should be rather painless to correct, just need to source some new pins.

Aside from the annoying spark problem, the new engine has been fantastic. It's running better than my last one ever did. Absolutely love the SPEC stage 3+ clutch too. Pedal effort is minimal and engagement is heavenly compared to the 6 puck I ran previously.

 

[323]

Super jelly. Your build is so well executed.

 

[bwalt]

Had a look at the long term fuel and ignition learning maps after driving a bunch since the dyno. Very satisfied to see the corrections within 5% on the fuel base map and within a couple degrees of the ignition base map. This means I have a pretty solid tune! Haven't used the meth tune yet though because it really provokes that spark issue.

You can see the areas of the map where the engine operates. The O2 control tweaks the fuel to match my target AFR map. Numbers within plus or minus 5% are considered good. As the weather and seasons change, so will my tune, without having to re-visit the dyno. I can also apply these trims to the base map any time I want.



Same goes for the knock control feature. As long as the sensor is programmed to listen to the frequency in which the engine is actually knocking, it will retard ignition timing until there's no knock or advance ignition timing up to 2 degrees if no knock is detected.

 

[SavagePk]

God damn i feel like a rookie

 

[323]

God damn i feel like a rookie

You and me both. Haha.

bwalt, what kind of transmission mods do you have? I tend to remember you having an mfactory lsd, mfactory gear set, and possibly some bracing? It's been a while since I've read your deleted thread

 

[bwalt]

I should post more past time pictures..

My transmission mods:

Ford escort 3.85 Final Drive
Mfactory LSD
MFactory 3/4/5 gears
Dual cone synchro upgraded 1/2 gears
Ferdi's reinforcement plate
Exile's trans saver brace
Custom made bell housing brace by me (janky cut-out but it's 1/4" thick and welded solid)

 

[bwalt]

I broke second gear before making the bell housing brace though I don't believe the failure was completely due the lack of reinforcement.

When I originally built the transmission, I used a cheap ass torque wrench to measure the turning torque of the main shaft, counter shaft and differential. It's extremely critical these bearing pre-loads be in the proper range of specification, preferably on the tight side. This ensures the bearings don't overheat and and gears stay fully meshed when loaded. Loose bearing clearance combined with the weak flexing case of the g series transmission deflected and sheared the gear teeth.



Torque wrench I used the first time.... burned myself good



This is what used the second time after installing the bell-housing brace and fixing second gear, a proper high quality dial torque wrench. This thing measures to the inch-pound and I got all three bearing clearances almost exactly on the tight side of Mazda's spec. After that re-build I drag raced all last year with slicks and no breaks.



Even with all this special attention and reinforcement, I still think there will be a breaking point as the physical size and design of the transmission and parts inside have limits. PAR makes some nice strong internals but I'm not sure I'll be happy with the over-bearing whine of straight cut gears.

My distant back up plan if I ever get good at fabricating...

The Toyota E153 transmission! Massive compared to the g series and known to hold large amounts of torque. I got the idea from some escort gt and bg protege guys running the 1.8BPT engine. They developed an adapter plate and there also seems to be a lot of aftermarket support for the transmission itself. Too bad I don't have a built BPT..

I think it could be possible on the FSDE.. I was able to find a person who custom made an adapter plate for their F22 engine and if I'm not mistaken that engine has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the FS.







E153 diff vs a stock G-series LOL

 

[bwalt]

Here's some cylinder head shots for you guys back when I first got it.

Custom Supertech valves +2.5mm intake, +3.4mm exhaust
Custom COMP single valve springs 82lb rate
Full port and polish including combustion chambers and all factory casting slag removed

Way over kill for a street car barely turning 7k rpms but it sounds cool.

 

[SavagePk]

Jesus props given my friend

 

[Dpwhitehead1]

i don't think my build will be this in depth, but hopefully it runs as well lmao.

 

[SavagePk]

Happen to have a turbo kit?