Low engine coolant

Fake stories? So youre questioning many long time members here spreading fake stories about the low-fill on factory fluids? And how frequently weve seen new CX-5 owners complaining low oil level and low engine coolant?

As I said, unless Mazda wants to against traditions about the fluid level measurement, many would consider Mazda has the tendency to low-fill the fluid not up to the Full mark or the fill-hole. Mazda definitely has done a poor job to give consistent specs on fluid capacities. And the gear lub level to fill-hole for front transfer case is full or optimal but for rear differential is too much and not optimal? Can Mazda consistently design the fill-hole locations at the correct or optimal fluid level?

I checked my coolant, and it is at the L on the resovoir container. The radiator, however, is full. Is this normal? I believe the coolant resovoir tank level goes up and down. No?
 
It should be at the F when cold. If it isn’t you need to take it up with your dealer and if you want to push it, let Mazda know.
 
It should be at the F when cold. If it isnt you need to take it up with your dealer and if you want to push it, let Mazda know.
 
Fake stories? So you’re questioning many long time members here spreading “fake stories” about the low-fill on factory fluids? And how frequently we’ve seen new CX-5 owners complaining low oil level and low engine coolant?

As I said, unless Mazda wants to against traditions about the fluid level measurement, many would consider Mazda has the tendency to low-fill the fluid not up to the “Full” mark or the fill-hole. Mazda definitely has done a poor job to give consistent specs on fluid capacities. And the gear lub level to fill-hole for front transfer case is full or “optimal” but for rear differential is too much and not “optimal”? Can Mazda consistently design the fill-hole locations at the correct or “optimal” fluid level?

Don’t read too much into this rear axle/transfer box thing you’ve homed in on. Maybe if you add the correct amount to the rear axle it is lower than the level plug and maybe if you add it to the transfer box it fills it to the level. It doesn’t mean they are underfilling and they certainly don’t vary. If they misfill the levels by one teaspoon full they’d be either running short or having trucks turn up with oil they can’t unload. A production line is an amazingly precise facility with every item arriving just in time. That includes fluids.
 
Dont read too much into this rear axle/transfer box thing youve homed in on. Maybe if you add the correct amount to the rear axle it is lower than the level plug and maybe if you add it to the transfer box it fills it to the level. It doesnt mean they are underfilling and they certainly dont vary. If they misfill the levels by one teaspoon full theyd be either running short or having trucks turn up with oil they cant unload. A production line is an amazingly precise facility with every item arriving just in time. That includes fluids.

What type of coolant does the 17 Cx-5 GT use? Ill order a jug of it..
 
It should be at the F when cold. If it isnt you need to take it up with your dealer and if you want to push it, let Mazda know.
So you believe the coolant level should be at the Full mark on the reservoir when cold, but the oil level should be 1/2 below the Full mark on dipstick if we put the specified 4.8 quarts of the engine oil for oil change on SA-G 2.5L?

Same situation, we drained and refilled specified 0.48 quarts of gear lub into front transfer case and the level reaches to the fill hole, but we also drained and refilled specified 0.48 quarts of gear lub into rear differential its way below the fill hole. Kedis82ZE8 had tested it requires about 0.75 quarts to make the lub level reaching the fill hole, which is 56% more than specified capacity of 0.48 quarts!

So which fluid capacity should we believe? And we dont feel Mazda did a very sloppy job defining the fluid capacities? And I have never experienced such discrepancies between specs and actual measurement on fluid capacities in any of the vehicles I have ever owned.

When I said under-fill, I meant measuring in the traditional way comparing to the Full mark. Im not questioning how inaccurate the factory fill by Mazda as every fluid capacity is measured by computer. But these inconsistencies and untraditional way of measurement caused so many confusions by new CX-5 owners!
 
I tell you what, I’m backing out of this one because its getting a bit emotive for my liking.

Happy New Year buddy ;-)
 
What type of coolant does the 17 Cx-5 GT use? Ill order a jug of it..
Go get Mazda genuine FL-22 long-life coolant which costs about $25 per gallon at Mazda dealer. But you should ask your Mazda dealer to top off the coolant for free, as they should have done it during new car preparation. And try to watch it as dealer may just add tap water instead of expensive FL-22 coolant for you.
 
The way I understand it, full or F basically means that's about the most you can fill. Anything above that is not "healthy" or excess.

Low or L is the least minimum quantity for operation. Running lower than L is risky.

Under-fill for me is below L. If sir yrwei defines under-fill as under F, there lies the difference in definition you guys are trying to resolve.

For me anything between F & L is the best optimum level of operation, oil or coolant.
 
I tell you what, Im backing out of this one because its getting a bit emotive for my liking.

Happy New Year buddy ;-)
We can always agree to disagree. And Im sorry to make you feel this way and IMO you sir are one of the most knowledgeable posters and the best contributors to this community!

Happy New Year to you too! :)
 
The way I understand it, full or F basically means that's about the most you can fill. Anything above that is not "healthy" or excess.

Low or L is the least minimum quantity for operation. Running lower than L is risky.

Under-fill for me is below L. If sir yrwei defines under-fill as under F, there lies the difference in definition you guys are trying to resolve.

For me anything between F & L is the best optimum level of operation, oil or coolant.
I agree I may have different definition of under-fill from others when we have a measuring stick with the Full and Add marks. But traditionally all the fluid capacities listed on the specs are for capacity to the Full mark. And how do you define proper gear lub capacities on our front transfer case and rear differential as theres no dipstick with Full、Add marks to measure?
 
I agree I may have different definition of under-fill from others when we have a measuring stick with the “Full” and “Add” marks. But traditionally all the fluid capacities listed on the specs are for capacity to the “Full” mark. And how do you define proper gear lub capacities on our front transfer case and rear differential as there’s no dipstick with “Full”、”Add” marks to measure?

I guess I'm the absence of that "full" and "add" marks, we proceed to the next logical approach, that is, up to the bolt level (bolt used to fill it with oil).
 
I guess I'm the absence of that "full" and "add" marks, we proceed to the next logical approach, that is, up to the bolt level (bolt used to fill it with oil).
That means for 2016.5 CX-5 and prior, 0.48 quarts for front transfer case which is consistent with Mazdas spec; and ~0.75 quarts for rear differential which is 56% more than specified capacity of 0.48 quarts. We have to warn those who are changing the gear lubricant for front transfer case and real differential that they have to get 2 quart bottles of expensive Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 as 1 quart is not enough although the specs on capacity says so.
 
No, they should refer to the capacity specs in the manual instead of taking someone’s word off a Internet forum.
 
No, they should refer to the capacity specs in the manual instead of taking someones word off a Internet forum.
Unfortunately someones word off an Internet forum is the statement from an official Mazda Factory Service Manual!

Mine was actually pretty clear but was a low fill from factory. I couldnt feel fluid level through fill hole. Replacement criteria as per fsm is to right at the bottom of fill hole.
 
Go to your Mazda dealer and ask them to top off it with Mazda genuine FL-22 coolant perferably watching the tech to do it as some may just add tap water instead of expensive FL-22 coolant! ;)

The 3 various dealerships I've dealt with (Mazda, VW, Honda) all automatically top off fluids. That said its a 10-year coolant lifespan.

Going back to checking the coolant level, what does the manual say as far as how to measure? I know each make/model may be different.

I hate dealing with coolant...its the only liquid I refuse to maintain myself DIY. When the time comes at 100k miles or so I'm having the dealer flush and fill the coolant and have all hoses replaced.
 
That means for 2016.5 CX-5 and prior, 0.48 quarts for front transfer case which is consistent with Mazda’s spec; and ~0.75 quarts for rear differential which is 56% more than specified capacity of 0.48 quarts. We have to warn those who are changing the gear lubricant for front transfer case and real differential that they have to get 2 quart bottles of expensive Mazda Long Life Hypoid Gear Oil SG1 as 1 quart is not enough although the specs on capacity says so.
If there are specs to follow then that is the best logical approach.
 
The 3 various dealerships I've dealt with (Mazda, VW, Honda) all automatically top off fluids. That said its a 10-year coolant lifespan.

Going back to checking the coolant level, what does the manual say as far as how to measure? I know each make/model may be different.

I hate dealing with coolant...its the only liquid I refuse to maintain myself DIY. When the time comes at 100k miles or so I'm having the dealer flush and fill the coolant and have all hoses replaced.
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Photo from Mazda Owners Manual: Note the location of the F and L indicators. It can be difficult to see when standing in front of the car, they are much easier viewed from the opposite angle.
 
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Photo from Mazda Owners Manual: Note the location of the F and L indicators. It can be difficult to see when standing in front of the car, they are much easier viewed from the opposite angle.

Oh okay. Technically one could open the cap/cover from the top and "think" that its low when in fact it could be in range. Only because the indicators are facing the engine and not readily visible?
 
Oh okay. Technically one could open the cap/cover from the top and "think" that its low when in fact it could be in range. Only because the indicators are facing the engine and not readily visible?

If you open the tank and can't see green fluid, it's low. Bringing it up to the full line results in about half an inch fluid being visible through the opening. BTW, I don't think that's a terribly accurate line drawing as the tank is configured a little different from that.(scratch)
 
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