2017~2024 CX-5 H&R or Eibach lowering springs?

Here's an update. I installed the rear camber arms. 2nd pic shows the inside bolt clearance with the subframe lowered about 2". The alignment is now perfect!
 

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I am planning to lower my car using Eibach pro-kit. could you share the experience of using Eibach prokit? is it good for daily drive? I don't want my car to get really low, so it seems like this eibach doesn't give you that much
 
What did you all get charged to install your H&Rs? I just got mine in and and a few quotes just trying to go with the right deal.
 

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What did you all get charged to install your H&Rs? I just got mine in and and a few quotes just trying to go with the right deal.
I did mine myself, as I'm an automotive technician. But I just looked up book times in ProDemand and it's 2.7hrs for the front and 2.4hrs for the rear springs. Times that by the shop rate.
And make sure you get an alignment afterwards as your toe will be out both front and rear. Also expect to need rear camber arms as in previous discussions to bring rear camber within spec.

Also please post pics afterwards. Curious how the ride hide compared to my Eibachs!
Good luck!
 
I did mine myself, as I'm an automotive technician. But I just looked up book times in ProDemand and it's 2.7hrs for the front and 2.4hrs for the rear springs. Times that by the shop rate.
And make sure you get an alignment afterwards as your toe will be out both front and rear. Also expect to need rear camber arms as in previous discussions to bring rear camber within spec.

Also please post pics afterwards. Curious how the ride hide compared to my Eibachs!
Good luck!

why does it take so long? they installed mine around 2 hours for both front and rear. rear is the easiest one, should not take an hour to install both left and right.
it is better to do alignment after a week, so the spring can settle first.
 
why does it take so long?

These times are known as "book rate", the average time it takes a semi skilled repair professional to do the work. By quoting "book rate" a shop is almost guaranteed to make money. Now sometimes a shop quotes "book rate" and they get stung (more labor hours because something is rusted or the process is very complicated) . AllData / ProDemand are methods for shops to feel confident about being profitable for a certain job effort. If you are at a shop and they had NEVER done the effort before they would quote "book rate", if the shop is very familiar with a process they may say something like "the book calls for 2.7hrs for the front and 2.4hrs for the rear springs .. but our people have done dozens of these.. we will call it 3.25 hours total."
 
Can anyone comment on the ride quality after lowering there cx5? After a few months of driving, I'm not very satisfied with the ride quality. More specifically the rear. It is way more stiff then it needs to be, and the rear makes an annoying knocking sound over every bump.
Does anyone have a similar experience? More specifically with Eibach, but also H&R
 
I went with H&R lowering springs on my 2014 Touring. Kept the OEM struts. Been fine with the way the car rides/handles but I prefer a slightly firmer ride and I don't autocross or anything like that...just spirited driving once in a while. No knocks or thunks. I'm fine with the look and the ride I ended up with.
SA Bill
 
I went with H&R lowering springs on my 2014 Touring. Kept the OEM struts. Been fine with the way the car rides/handles but I prefer a slightly firmer ride and I don't autocross or anything like that...just spirited driving once in a while. No knocks or thunks. I'm fine with the look and the ride I ended up with.
SA Bill
Thanks for the reply. I also used the stock struts. I previously had a 2014 M3 also with Eibach, and I was extremely satisfied with the way the suspension felt. In the cx5 it's not great, and I guess I was expecting a similar feel. It doesn't really makes sense why it feels so hard, especially since the suspension has much more travel.
 
Do you have the factory sway bar? I have the CS sway and springs. After I have replaced my shocks/struts with Koni Yellows I had a knock too, when I was driving over some street gutter, or driving up on my driveway.
It turned out to be, a loose nut at the sway bar endlink. It wasn't loose loose, but I could still tighten it a bit more.
 
I figured out what the knocking noise was. The rear shocks were bottoming out on the bump stops! Actually, they were resting right on the bump stops, hence the harsh ride that was annoying me. I had to cut another 30mm more then the 15mm I had previously cut following the Eibach instructions to give the suspension some travel. No one else come across this???
The yellow marked line in the pic is where the dust shield sat before cutting trimming the bump stop.
 

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@shox75 so trim 45mm instead? Does it make the appearance dropped more or is it simply for ride quality?
The ride height didn't change, it's the same. But the ride quality is now even front to rear. Before it was too stiff in the rear (bouncy) because the suspension had no travel. 15mm was not enough to trim. I basically cut 2 more rings off the bump stop after the initial 15mm. So yes approx. 45mm total.
 

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That is weird, though I have a 14' model, I'm lowered 3-1/4" and I don't have this issue. I have just installed Koni Yellows.
 
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