hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
All the more reason, I just hit 153k.
What have you done to your MSP today?
- Thread starter baconbitz
- Start date
All the more reason, I just hit 153k.
Drove the MSP to work 2 days in a row.
The clunk is killing it for me. HATE IT.
EvilMonkey said he installed poly swaybar bushings and "fixed" it for him.
It isn't fixed. It SUCKS! Unacceptable. If I can't fix the clunk I'm selling it.
The clunk fix kit has had some bad reviews. Can't even get it any more (?).
Should I try lots of teflon tape on bar? Noise not coming from links (new HD links).
The clunk is killing it for me. HATE IT.
EvilMonkey said he installed poly swaybar bushings and "fixed" it for him.
It isn't fixed. It SUCKS! Unacceptable. If I can't fix the clunk I'm selling it.
The clunk fix kit has had some bad reviews. Can't even get it any more (?).
Should I try lots of teflon tape on bar? Noise not coming from links (new HD links).
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
If you can't fix the clunk you shouldn't have an MSP lol. The links "could" be not tight enough. the poly bushings could be worn out, something could be broken, among other things.
The roads are pretty bad here right now.
Poly bushings don't wear out fast, and pretty sure Emonkey did the bushings within the last year. But I will check them.
Noise comes from each end of the car. LF, RF, LR, RR depending on the bump I've hit.
When you say links could be not tight enough, do you mean that the nuts might not be tight enough? The ball joint in the links is tight, put new ones on a week ago. Could the bolts be banging inside the holes in the strut mounts and bar ends? Perhaps I could make a bushing for that?
What do you know about using teflon tape?
I've heard that the s.bar needs to be "stabilized"?
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
yes the nut which mounts to the strut. If that isn't stupid tight it will clunk.
I've never had to use teflon tape as I've always used oem bushings since they don't squeak when dry and they're the right size every time. lol
Design flaw with the car. Poly really only last about 10-12k, rubber even less. Definitely check the endlink to make sure they are tight.
Here's a group buy for the relocation kits: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123836924-GB-Rear-Sway-Bar-Relocation-Brackets
They have been successful in reducing the clunk, adding a zerk fitting so you can regrease it is best. I did teflon when I installed a set of bushing but it was to lessen the squeak of the bushings, not the clunk.
archive about teflon and different greases http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-123811801.html
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hornsfan10609
Certified Mazda Tech
- :
- 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege x2
Clunk doesn't really bother me, true MSP owner lol
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Ive got about 10k on my second set of oem bushings. I replaced the first set at about 20k on them, maybe a little less, but not much. I replaced the front and rear end links at the first initial replacement when i got that car as well. Used Napa brand wnd links. The bushings i regularly lubricate with werth HHS2000 every chance i get which is a lot with it being in the air so much. It keeps them quiet and i havent done it in the past few months and it staryed creaking the other day, so im going to buy another set of oem ones. Ive made sure both times to give them the part number for the revised oem bushing bushing per TSB and make sure when i get them its that numver and not an old.number. i mean im sure theyve sold through all of the old stock, but never hurts. Lol
Replaced by the sounds of scraping on everything? Haha.
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- 1989 RX-7 GXL Blaze Red
You got it bud
you could always just... unhook the bar lol.
my front endlinks went mia a LOOONG time ago. every now and then the bar bounces off the LCA on one side lol. i should REALLY get on replacing the links one of these days. ive got so used to the offpower steering without a front bar though.
A big surprise is my ES has a front bar on it heh. i guess there was more to the "GT" trim than i thought.. nice stereo.. and what else.. heh.
my front endlinks went mia a LOOONG time ago. every now and then the bar bounces off the LCA on one side lol. i should REALLY get on replacing the links one of these days. ive got so used to the offpower steering without a front bar though.
A big surprise is my ES has a front bar on it heh. i guess there was more to the "GT" trim than i thought.. nice stereo.. and what else.. heh.
So I've been dealing with some issues with the car here lately.. can't seem to figure out what's causing it either. On a cold start-up I have to tap the gas in order for it to crank, it shows a vacuum of -15ish at idle, after it warms up and I come to a stop somewhere rpm's drop to nearly nothing but then picks right back up to normal, and sometimes when it gets into boost there's some hessitation. It don't hesitate every time I get into boost but it does it pretty regularly. I've checked for vacuum leaks and couldn't find any and I have no check engine lights. Anybody have an idea on what this could be? Possibly egr or crank sensor?
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- 2003 Mazdaspeed Protege 1660, 2004 Winning Blue RX8, 2005 Mazda6
Scan for pending codes and see if there are any if you haven't already.
I put the turbo on this morning. Took me waaaay too long. About 4 hours I think. This turbo, good shape, spun freely, didn't see anything wrong with it. Was in better shape than mine when I checked it last, haven't gotten it to boost above 13 psi. The other day no more than a couple of hours before mine went I hit 16psi. I got a bare used turbo, so I had to swap everything over from my old one. And i installed new gaskets except for the head to manifold gasket which was in good shape and doesn't currently have any leaks. I cleared the oil feed line just to make sure there was nothing restricting oil flow and did the same with the return. Nothing changed except the compressor itself. I checked the wastegate the second I had it out of the box because I've had issues with my shaft bushing backing out of the housing and causing it to jam open, but this one would seat nicely. Temperatures aren't excessively high today or anything.
I put the turbo on this morning. Took me waaaay too long. About 4 hours I think. This turbo, good shape, spun freely, didn't see anything wrong with it. Was in better shape than mine when I checked it last, haven't gotten it to boost above 13 psi. The other day no more than a couple of hours before mine went I hit 16psi. I got a bare used turbo, so I had to swap everything over from my old one. And i installed new gaskets except for the head to manifold gasket which was in good shape and doesn't currently have any leaks. I cleared the oil feed line just to make sure there was nothing restricting oil flow and did the same with the return. Nothing changed except the compressor itself. I checked the wastegate the second I had it out of the box because I've had issues with my shaft bushing backing out of the housing and causing it to jam open, but this one would seat nicely. Temperatures aren't excessively high today or anything.
Yeah I had a maf sensor pop up and a fuel regulator sensor. But I've had these two codes pop up multiple times before I've had this issue. Think they pop up because of maxing out the 5v range on the maf. I got a ssafc just haven't installed it yet cause I want to fix this issue first.
