I got 2003 and for some reason my air conditioning just doesn't get cold. I got the dial to 4 and it's still weak. It was weak last year as well. The vehicle is only 3 years old and this is the beginning of my third summer having it. I don't run my A/C all summer long either. Is anyone else having this problem with their P5?
Do anyones elses A/C suck?
- Thread starter jophus14
- Start date
Protephile
Propulsionally Challenged
- :
- 2022 CX-30
Our A/C sucks, always has, always will. I don't use it anyway. It's just a fuel and power parasite.
my AC cools too good and its an 02 with ove 120K miles on it...
here is a thought I had this problem with my heater in the winter, it wouldn't heat right. I read on here to look behind the glovebox where the temp dial wire hits the white thing and make sure it's not loose, mine had come off and so it didn't change the settings correctly. check it on yours and pray thats what the problem is.
here is a thought I had this problem with my heater in the winter, it wouldn't heat right. I read on here to look behind the glovebox where the temp dial wire hits the white thing and make sure it's not loose, mine had come off and so it didn't change the settings correctly. check it on yours and pray thats what the problem is.
My A/C has sucked since last year and I live in FL. It gets cold for a few seconds, then it gets warm. But when I'm actually driving down the road for a long while, it gets cold and stays that way for a bit. But then if I sit at a light or stop the car for long periods of time, it gets warm again. I'll probably try to recharge it soon and see what happens. Its BS.
yes definately check if the freon is low... get a shop to check and recharge it
and then look into upgrading your cooling system... just simply getting high flow fans will make a big difference in AC cooling
and if that doesn't work, you can upgrade your evaporator to the one that the israeli spec cars uses... it's thicker/bigger which is more efficient... the downside though is it costs MONEY... the part itself is orderable in the US so it's easy to get (except for the waiitng time)... the upside is, you'll get better cooling and at the same time get a pollen filter... info is in the FAQ
and then look into upgrading your cooling system... just simply getting high flow fans will make a big difference in AC cooling
and if that doesn't work, you can upgrade your evaporator to the one that the israeli spec cars uses... it's thicker/bigger which is more efficient... the downside though is it costs MONEY... the part itself is orderable in the US so it's easy to get (except for the waiitng time)... the upside is, you'll get better cooling and at the same time get a pollen filter... info is in the FAQ
What setting for the air do you use - inside car or outside car air? I've found that the coolest/strongest air comes from when I set it to take air from inside the cabin and recirculate.
My A/C is just fine set on 2. It's not too cool but it's borderline warm. In extreme heat, 3 or 4 will work fine. And that's with a UDP so the a/c compressor isn't turning as much (also not having as negative an effect on fuel efficiency or power).
I also set 3 of the vents on me and the passenger side is shut.
You could also look into tinting the windows. Less heat entering the car and you get the snazzy look!
My A/C is just fine set on 2. It's not too cool but it's borderline warm. In extreme heat, 3 or 4 will work fine. And that's with a UDP so the a/c compressor isn't turning as much (also not having as negative an effect on fuel efficiency or power).
I also set 3 of the vents on me and the passenger side is shut.
You could also look into tinting the windows. Less heat entering the car and you get the snazzy look!
qualityrockola
Member
Recharging the AC in your car is one of the easiest things to do. just go to any auto parts store or walmart or just about wherever and get a kit. screw the hose on the can, plug the hose into your system, run the car w/AC on and open up the valve on the can. you just let it do its thing for a minute or two and you will have an icy cold system again. I do it on farm equipment often and i did it on my '00 S10 pickup twice (RIP). there are even cans of refrigerant with stop leak or other additives to help with a leaky system. I do not know why anyone would NOT recharge their own system. i think a kit is only like $30 and additional cans of refrigerant are like $10 if you have multiple vehicles to do.
because modern cars like the protege uses a high efficency "low refrigerant charge" system... the system MUST be charged EXACTLY to the correct weight or the system will NOT operate efficiently (in otherwords, it won't cool worth s***)... "topping off" a system will result in an incorrect charge regardless of who does it...
furthermore, those DIY "kits" usually contain sealants in the cans which are NOT recommended additives for an A/C system, it WILL clog the expansion valves further increasing head pressures and reducing cooling efficiency.. not to mention those kits ONLY have a low side gauge which means if your system is fubar to begin with (high side restriction for example), trying to recharge/top off the system may result in blowing a refrigerant hose or releasing the overpressure poppet valve on the compressor, venting all the money you spent on refrigerant away (which is also a greenhouse gas) as well as most of the refrigerant oil! as I said, even if everything "goes OK", you still won't have an accurate charge
the PROPER way to top off a high efficiency system (which many modern cars do) is to recover ALL the refrigerant in the system, notating the amount that was recovered, and then recharging the system from empty to the proper weight (which is 1lbs 5oz IIRC)..... then the person performing the system recharge can charge the customer accordingly to the amount of refrigerant topped off (for example, if only 0.5lbs came out, then you are billed for 0.81lbs of refrigerant PLUS labor)
1lbs 5oz is NOT a lot of refrigerant... that's just basically a little over 1 can of R134a.... overcharging will result in higher system pressures, and that mean higher heat exchanger temperatures which means you'll be sweating longer!
furthermore, those DIY "kits" usually contain sealants in the cans which are NOT recommended additives for an A/C system, it WILL clog the expansion valves further increasing head pressures and reducing cooling efficiency.. not to mention those kits ONLY have a low side gauge which means if your system is fubar to begin with (high side restriction for example), trying to recharge/top off the system may result in blowing a refrigerant hose or releasing the overpressure poppet valve on the compressor, venting all the money you spent on refrigerant away (which is also a greenhouse gas) as well as most of the refrigerant oil! as I said, even if everything "goes OK", you still won't have an accurate charge
the PROPER way to top off a high efficiency system (which many modern cars do) is to recover ALL the refrigerant in the system, notating the amount that was recovered, and then recharging the system from empty to the proper weight (which is 1lbs 5oz IIRC)..... then the person performing the system recharge can charge the customer accordingly to the amount of refrigerant topped off (for example, if only 0.5lbs came out, then you are billed for 0.81lbs of refrigerant PLUS labor)
1lbs 5oz is NOT a lot of refrigerant... that's just basically a little over 1 can of R134a.... overcharging will result in higher system pressures, and that mean higher heat exchanger temperatures which means you'll be sweating longer!
